Go | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply |
Green grass and high tides |
So I have a 500 sq ft interior slab I want to coat. Looking for recommendations. It is a living space. Will have area rugs to cover about 70% of it. I do not really want to chemically etch it. I want to do it once. I know prep will be key. I am not sure whether I would fleck it. It is something that is going to have to look nice, not stunning. Help me out those of you who have experience. Thanks. "Practice like you want to play in the game" | ||
|
Ignored facts still exist |
https://www.griotsgarage.com/p...refType=&from=Search The prep may be beyond what you want to do however. By the way, Griot's is the best of the best in terms of service and quality. . | |||
|
A Grateful American |
When I was building homes back in the early 90s, there was a local guy that started a company called Decocrete applying dyes, stains, stamping and textures to concrete as it was laid as well as some after initial curing and older slabs. It was some pretty nice work. Other's started doing similar processes, and for "living space", it might look better than an epoxy or epoxy and flake finish. "the meaning of life, is to give life meaning" ✡ Ani Yehudi אני יהודי Le'olam lo shuv לעולם לא שוב! | |||
|
Troll |
We had ours tiled...costs a lot. Looks great. | |||
|
Green grass and high tides |
exposed concrete makes dust. I want to coat it. It may or may not be a permanent solution. Might tile, carpet or use some kind of laminate down the road. But for know I am looking to clean it good and coat it. "Practice like you want to play in the game" | |||
|
quarter MOA visionary |
Can't you just put down a good sealer until you figure out what finish you want? | |||
|
Member |
If it’s troweled smooth you’ll have no option but to etch for any of the coatings you’ve listed to perform adaquately ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Live today as if it may be your last and learn today as if you will live forever | |||
|
Green grass and high tides |
Acid etched? "Practice like you want to play in the game" | |||
|
Thank you Very little |
yep, best done when new before anything gets on it, but you'll need to acid etch to get any epoxy or stain to take hold.... | |||
|
Member |
Acid etching is necessary prep, or you'll have epoxy peeling back, material flaking, etc. An epoxy floor is the best solution. Staining won't do anything for dust and won't protect the cement. | |||
|
Member |
| |||
|
Green grass and high tides |
What about a simple paint. Won't stick? That is not what a bunch of people say 3gup "Practice like you want to play in the game" | |||
|
quarter MOA visionary |
What defines "simple" paint? | |||
|
Green grass and high tides |
Something that does not require an acid etch "Practice like you want to play in the game" | |||
|
Member |
As was mentioned, for best adhesion, floor should be acid etched or diamond abraded. An epoxy coating would be easy. Polyurea would be better but not as user friendly. Acid stain followed by a sealer would be another option. An acrylic porch/ floor paint would be easy, but not as durable. “I won't be wronged. I won't be insulted. I won't be laid a-hand on. I don't do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” | |||
|
quarter MOA visionary |
I'd use a stain followed up with a clear topcoat. As far as the prep goes it depends on the condition now. Does it need an acid etch? > not necessarily. If it is really embedded with grease, dirt, paint and other shit > then probably > YES. If it is real chalky and dusty then no acid but you might need to seal it or some kind of pre-sealer to limit dust and absorption. Then apply what you want. Lots of good YouTube examples to choose from. | |||
|
Green grass and high tides |
Thanks guys. Smschultz I appreciate that. I was mostly hand trawled. Not power trawl smooth. Not too dusty or chalky. We sweep it occasionally. But use it regularly. Pretty clean. No grease or overly dirty. A Valspar stain is what we are leaning towards. But they also make and epoxy that looks good too. "Practice like you want to play in the game" | |||
|
Member |
I do this work on a commercial scale for a living. The surface can be shot blasted with minimal dust as surface prep. The issue you will run into is moisture drive from underneath the slab. Epoxy is the only product that works for slab on grade applications. Surface prep is critical. I would be more than happy to help you with the details and walk you through the process. E Mail is in my profile. | |||
|
Chip away the stone |
I'm lazy, so considering your statement that you might lay carpet, tile, ect. later on, I'd be very inclined to just make that decision now rather than have the cost and labor of doing a coating now and laying something on top of it later. | |||
|
Member |
I have a semi-finished 400 sq. ft. room in the basement. The front of the basement is about 6' below grade in the front and walk-out in the back. Concrete slab on top of crushed rock (I think, it's been a long time ago.) About 30 years ago I painted the floor with something very close to this from Home Depot: Drylock Concrete Floor Paint. $37.97 per gallon. https://www.homedepot.com/p/DR...int-209155/203887551 The only prep work was to wet mop the floor and suck it up with a shop vac. Of course, let it dry a few days and then painted it. Maybe 5 years later I put down some carpet covering about 90% of the painted floor. I've never had a problem with the paint lifting, flaking or anything else. God's mercy: NOT getting what we deserve! God's grace: Getting what we DON'T deserve! "If the enemy is in range, so are you." - Infantry Journal Bob P239 40 S&W Endowment NRA Viet Nam '69-'70 | |||
|
Powered by Social Strata | Page 1 2 |
Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |