Working on 2001 f150, that has been sitting close to sprinklers that use well water in north TX. Full of minerals or something like that took a tool on the paint and windshield. I tried clay bar, power wash, meguiars fine-cut cleaner, windex, with no success. At this point I am primarily concerned with the windshield- any suggestions?

Btw, the picture of the door, the truck is dry, there is just that much difference where the sprinklers hit the truck.

I would try CLR in a small spot to see if it will remove the lime deposit.

0000 steel wool with dish washing soap or a 50/50 mix of vinegar and water. CLR might do the trick,too. Maybe Simple Green.

quote:

Originally posted by Ozarkwoods:
I would try CLR in a small spot to see if it will remove the lime deposit.

Yes, wife used to use it in our kitchen and bath fixtures. Then I installed a water softener system and that solved that problem.

Still have a partial bottle of CLR in the cupboard.

You might try a clay bar...I've seen remarkable results from using them on finishes damaged from acidic rain...

https://www.detailedimage.com/...ling-Guide/Clay-Bar/

quote:

Originally posted by Bisleyblackhawk:
You might try a clay bar...I've seen remarkable results from using them on finishes damaged from acidic rain...

https://www.detailedimage.com/...ling-Guide/Clay-Bar/

He mentioned that he tried that already, Bbh.

You can definitely fix that. Meguires makes a water spot remover you can apply by hand or machine. Other finishing compouds would work also just a matter of your preference. In your case I would recommend a cheap DA polisher from harbor freight because its going to be a significant amount of elbow grease if you do it by hand. Clay bars will not remove water spots in my experience.

High end auto detailers use glass cleaning compounds, cerium oxide iirc. But you need special pads using a low speed rotary. last year I got into serious level auto paint and glass detailing, and I already have the glass cleaning compound and pads, and two random orbitals, but even the high-end german random orbital wasn't enough power to cut down the scratches on my windshield. Everything everyone has mentioned so far can work on glass SOMETIMES, but in your case the glass has been etched (literally) below the surface, so you'll need two grades of glass cleaning compound, medium and fine, and an electric (power cord) rotary polisher (not random orbital). Tape off your moulding with painters tape, and move very slowly, because it takes a LOT of work to lower the top layer of class to the level of the etched pockets. Never stop moving the machine, always keep it moving, because if a hot spot develops by stopping movement, you can heat-distort the glass, which is permanent and non-fixable damage.

Or, take it to a glass company and they will probably do a good job for less money than you would have to spend for even medium quality tools and materials.

Either way, after you get the glass flat again (the polishing grinds the top layer of glass to the level of the etching depressions), treat it with one of the glass sealers that make it so you can drive through a rainstorm without turning on your wipers. I used Rain-X (sealer not cleaner) to great effect, lasts a good while.

Good luck and have fun. Either way your glass is fixable, but everything you've tried so far tells me that your only option is to cut the glass with polish, or replace the windshield. You should consider replacing it if the etching is serious bad. Either way stop wasting your $ with another trick you hear about solving this problem. I've been down this road, like a lot novice auto detailers and restorers, these are your only two options left, but at least they both work. If you like working with your hands and want an excuse to buy more tools, do it yourself, otherwise take it to a glass company or replace the windshield.

quote:

Originally posted by Bisleyblackhawk:
You might try a clay bar...I've seen remarkable results from using them on finishes damaged from acidic rain...

https://www.detailedimage.com/...ling-Guide/Clay-Bar/

A clay bar is not the answer here but the site mentioned detailedimage.com is a great one for these types of products.
I am certain there is something with a bit a abrasive/polish to clean it.

quote:

Originally posted by clubleaf206:
0000 steel wool with dish washing soap or a 50/50 mix of vinegar and water. CLR might do the trick,too. Maybe Simple Green.

Do not use steel wool on glass. It will put fine scratches in the glass and the residue can put fine rust spots on the paint.

Op- buy whink sold in the laundry spot cleaner section of grocery stores in a brown bottle. Put it on a paper towel really wet, rub in a circular motion in no more than a 1’ area until the rust disappears (not in direct sunlight) then wipe it off before it dries.

Option 2- imar sells an excellent glass polishing compound that will take it off.

Muriatic acid very diluted will dissolve calcium carbonate. Works wonders around here. We have a lot of cement factories nearby.

We had that happen once on vacation in SC, where we parked our cars would get sprayed with waste water of some sort that was coming out of lawn sprinklers. Left a minerally type residue on the paint and windshield, I eventually got it all off with elbow grease and a citrus based cleaner I think.

quote:

Originally posted by J387:
You can definitely fix that. Meguires makes a water spot remover you can apply by hand or machine. Other finishing compouds would work also just a matter of your preference. In your case I would recommend a cheap DA polisher from harbor freight because its going to be a significant amount of elbow grease if you do it by hand. Clay bars will not remove water spots in my experience.

The Meguires (sp) stuff works great. Try hand application first.

Thank you all for your advice

I figured to provide an update on the project: lots of elbow grease did clean up a lot of the paint. For me, the orbital buffer did not work as good as a hand. I had to put in a new windshield for $150. I also put in a bunch of new front end parts with new upper arms, inner and outer tie rods, shocks, sway bar links, and 1.5” leveling kit. It was a fun family event! My first time to do anything of this magnitude so I learned a lot. Got the truck aligned today and it drives, steers and sits so much better.

Btw, some of those ball joints were STUCK!!

Ah, rebuilding the front end of a truck of this era. Been there, done that. And I decided to add a complete brake job in with the complete front suspension rebuild just to try and over complicate my life. Glad you made it a family affair and had fun with it.

I had the same thing happen to my company car. Lime Away and patience worked well and didn't hurt the paint.