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R407A is NOT compatible with mineral oil. Therefore NOT a drop in refrigerant. Look it up. WyoRobert, considering the age of the system, I suggest you replace the motor, Then plan on a complete system replacement with matched componets, professionally installed, on your timetable. | |||
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Don't know why you used the quote button instead of the reply button. 407 is NOT 410 407 is NOT a drop in replacement for a 22 system running on mineral oil. You're also confusing 407a (refrigeration) with 407c (air conditioning). This is stationary residential equipment and not marine. Someday, maybe you'll understand there's a difference. | |||
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410 is what I replace R22 units with. It is the new standard Freon and what the new units use and I know it is not compatible with 407A or R22. You can put R22 in a system that had 407A in it and the oil is compatible. Stationary residential uses much of the same exact stuff and principles as Marine. Marine is more advanced than stationary residential and uses Freon to water heat exchange instead of Freon to air, but many similarities. While you cannot mix R22, 407a, 407C. You can use them in the same system if the R22 (or other two) have been evacuated. See page 11 on compatibility. https://www.chemours.com/Refri...7c-push-bulletin.pdf | |||
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No kidding... Sherlock Holmes.
Which is why quoting my post was irrelevant.
False, as 407 is not compatible with mineral oil. Read the document you linked below:
Page 13 Note that HCFC-22/mineral oil and HCFC-22/alkylbenzene liquid phase miscibility are listed for reference. In general, HCFC-22 and mineral oil are miscible over most of the expected ranges of operating conditions for normal air conditioning and high to medium temperature operation. HCFC-22 and alkylbenzene are miscible over a much wider range of temperatures. Miscibility is generally believed to aid lubricant return to the compressor. Therefore, it may be desirable in a retrofit of an existing system of this type to use a miscible lubricant with Freon™ HFC refrigerants. In general, Freon™ HFC refrigerants, such as Freon™ 407C and Freon™ 407A, are miscible with polyol ester lubricant and immiscible with alkylbenzene and mineral oil lubricant. Another important point is that residual mineral oil or alkylbenzene left in a refrigeration system after a retrofit to any HFC refrigerant is performed decreases the lubricant/ refrigerant miscibility. This is one of the reasons why three oil changes are generally recommended when a system is being converted or retrofitted to use HFC refrigerants and POE lubricants. Nice try. | |||
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Ummmm yeah you evacuate the unit and the oil, and of course flush the mineral oil out of the system to go from R22 to 407A or C (sorry for not mentioning that), and you can use POE oil and 407A or C in a R22 unit or POE oil and R22. I only went backwards with it and switched six units from 407A (built that way) to R22 and had POE oil which is compatible with R22 because there wasn't enough cooling capacity, so there was no need to flush the system and oil on each unit, just simply evacuate the 407A, run the units on a vacuum pump and recharge with R22. edited to add: You are right I inadvertently put you can use the same oil in my initial post. I was thinking of going from 407A to R22 in my mind (and the POE oil is compatible with R22) and forgetting that I was talking about going in a different direction, R22 to 407 A or C. But needless to say, the Freon itself is compatible with the same equipment. I've heard of lots of techs putting 407A or C in an R22 without changing the oil and it working, but I wouldn't do it. | |||
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Evacuating a system is just that, evacuating the non condensibles from a sealed system. It has never meant removing the compresser to dump the oil out and flushing the system.
Marine vs stationary residential equipment. | |||
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Most of your electricity savings was from switching to a gas water heater. Not from changing out the HVAC system. Most standby electric water heaters run about 3-5 hours a day. And at approximately 4000 to 5000 watts, that adds up fast. ——————————————— The fool hath said in his heart, There is no God. Psalm 14:1 | |||
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^^^ Correct, say about 400 kWh a month for two people. (650+400= 1050) Then, if you look at the weather data for PA. June 2018 had 191 cooling degree days June 2019 had 143 cooling degree days Which is a 25% reduction in cooling system operation. (1600-1050= 550) Now reduce the overage by 25% (137.5 kwh, reduced for weather conditions) = 412.5 kWh saved, minus whatever part of the actual bill is for A/C operation at a 33.3% rate. Say 300 kWh used, would be another 99.9 kWh reduction by weather conditions. So overall, you saved approximately 412.5-99.9= 312.6 kWh by increased efficiency. 237.4 kWh for weather conditions 312.6 kWh for efficiency. *actual usage figures are of coarse going to vary. Only way to nail them down is to know your load calculation data. | |||
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Nosce te ipsum |
Furnaces can run 40+ years. My dad's just passed the CO test at 29 years, although the return drop has holes in it near the floor, and the flue shows signs of condensation. So the whole thing is rather rotting apart. The AC, if it is holding pressure, if it continues to be a sealed system, it can last as long as any system you see on cars. Some seem to 'run forever' and others crap out. I'm in the camp of 'leave it alone'. When someone wants to do a system-wide upgrade, let them choose their own equipment. | |||
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Sounds like your only staying in this house for a few more years. You may want to check into one of those home warranties. I believe they can be had for $400-500 a year. | |||
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Thank you Very little |
When he added the bonus about AC I figured he meant he was looking to replace a heat pump type unit vs separate units since the additional question about R22. | |||
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Thanks for all the advice and replies folks. I went with the same course of action hvactech suggested and replaced the blower motor. The stuff is 20 years old, so I'm aware it may not last too long, but I think it will be long enough at least to find out if we're staying long enough to be worth replacing it. The tech said it was really cruddy in there as well and he said that probably made a contribution to the motor failing. The house was empty for a couple years before we bought it, so it might have had something living in it. I didn't examine what he cleaned out. I have also drywalled two large rooms that were plaster and lath, so there was some excessive dirt and dust in the system at some points as well. Robert ------------------------------------------------ Our deepest fear is not that we are inadequate. Our deepest fear is that we are powerful beyond measure. -- Marianne Williamson | |||
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