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Feasible for a DIY job? My son's rig has just shit the transmission and he's been quoted 5-6k for a manufactured transmission job. Leaving aside the fact that this may or may not be a good deal for the $$, neither he nor I have that sort of scratch available at the moment. So, looking at youtube, it doesn't look too bad a job, I've switched some manual boxes back in the day, but nothing this size. Could save him a couple of grand in labor. So,what say you? I have floor jacks, jack stands, ramps, a fairly comprehensive set of hand and power tools. Get the manual and dive in? | ||
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It's not that tough of a job. I've dropped the transmission out of a couple of older Chev/GMC works trucks and if you have the tools it can be done. A transmission adapter for your floor jack will help. I think I got mine (many years ago) from Harbor Freight or maybe Northern Tools. | |||
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I did it twice in an 88 Camaro. Just a friend and myself, and the same accommodations you have. Replacing it isn’t brain surgery, but I’ll admit I’ve never been brave enough to open one up. | |||
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Buy that Classic SIG in All Stainless, No rail wear will be painless. |
Pyker, You are in Minnesota? Is that Suburban four wheel drive? If so, it is more mechanically complex than two wheel drive. In addition, the transfer case (if equipped) is also heavy and cumbersome. (transfer case is removed before the transmission) But the real issue when replacing an automatic transmission is being certain the transmission cooler and cooler lines are flushed and free of any particulate debris. All it takes is one microscopic piece of debris ingested into the valve body or pump on your new expensive transmission, and it's now turned into junk. I have NEVER seen a transmission flushing tool outside of the Dealership or Transmission Shop environment. Replacing the transmission without flushing the cooler and lines can be an expensive gamble. Back in the day, General Motors was the best source for a replacement transmission. The replacement units had all the durability enhancements from the factory. Also, a damn good warranty. They were called SRTA transmissions. Service_Replacement_Transmission_Assembly. Somewhere on the OEM transmission there is a small metal tag, riveted to the transmission, with all the ID numbers needed for transmission identification. Replacing the transmission with a unit that isn't set up for YOUR vehicle can also lead to headaches. Improper shift points, TCC shudder, slippage. I have changed automatic transmissions on my back without using a lift. Hopefully, never again! Good luck with your project! If you don't have compressed air, air impact tools, oxy-acetylene torches, and a MIG welder, you are likely in over your head. Road salt does a job on crossmember bolts and exhaust hardware. NRA Benefactor Life Member NRA Instructor USPSA Chief Range Officer | |||
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Just paid for this on a 2013 GMC Sierra. It is, by the book, with a lot of skill, an eight-hour job according to AllDataPro. The GM transmission is a three-year 100K mile warranty item. The R&R does require a fair number of job-specific tools. Most important is a TCM (transmission control module) tool that will “flash” the TCM with your VIN-specific insights. And, of course, flushing the system is as already reported very important. Some shops will replace the cooler as it is such a risk to have previous failure debris in the new lines and tranny. The U-joints are possibly nearly gone, and you may have U-joints that are epoxied in the aluminum driveshaft. Best take the driveshaft to a specialty shop to have those replaced! Beating them out is BAD. Heat is required, as well as knowledge. Exhaust pipe donuts and other minor parts are needed too. Lots of weight, specialty jacks, a lift for the heavy Suburban…not a trivial undertaking. I was glad to pay a technician from work for eight hours of his time! He had all the tools and more importantly the experience and wisdom to use them. ------- Trying to simplify my life... | |||
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His diet consists of black coffee, and sarcasm. |
You're going to have a hell of a time doing this on the ground. The transfer case, in particular, even after you get the nuts off the top of it, is always scary even on a hoist with a transmission jack. It is very easy to drop. Even with a hoist, jack and power tools, it is still a good 8 hours work. The exhaust Y-pipe also has to be removed, and - as with all exhaust - the nuts are probably frozen. What is your time worth? | |||
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Shaman |
Ok not a GM product but I removed and rebuilt the transmission in my 1994 Dodge 1500. It's not rocket surgery. A set of snap ring tools is a must. But removing and replacing is not impossible, I'd go get a transmission jack though and STRAP it to the transmission. I have photos somewhere. It's been about 5 years now. He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. | |||
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delicately calloused |
My dad used to say if man built it, man can fix it. All you need are the proper resources and the patience to navigate the process. Time and information are two of the resources many don’t have. I’ve done what you’re describing. It’s only difficult if you’re missing resources. If you don’t have urgency like, “I need this running by Monday”, then it’s worth a shot. You’ll need to lift the vehicle high enough for the trans to clear the frame. You’re a lying dog-faced pony soldier | |||
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Member |
Thanks everyone. I'm going to pass on this. 20 years ago I would have done it, but it's looking a bit more heavy lifting than I'm comfortable with. | |||
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