I want to disconnect the incoming phone line (copper) from the house to test a VoIP phone setup. I want to run the VoIP signal throughout the house on the existing wiring/jacks and keep all of my current phones, so I need to make sure I have isolated the house wiring from the incoming phone line.

There is a "test jack" in the customer side of the telephone network interface box on the outside wall. (This is where you would typically disconnect the line and plug in a phone to test whether a problem is coming from inside or outside the home.)

My question is this - if I disconnect that modular plug from the "test jack," is that sufficient to isolate the home? Or do I need to actually remove the wires from behind the posts?

quote:

Originally posted by Aquilon:
I want to disconnect the incoming phone line (copper) to the house to test a VoIP phone setup. I want to run the VoIP signal throughout the house on the existing wiring, so I need to make sure I have isolated the house wiring from the incoming phone line.

There is a "test jack" in the customer side of the telephone network interface box on the outside wall. (This is where you would typically disconnect the line and plug in a phone to test whether a problem is coming from inside or outside the home.)

My question is this - if I disconnect that modular plug from the "test jack," is that sufficient to isolate the home? Or do I need to actually remove the wires from behind the posts?

The junction box is where the phone company "demarcates" its network from your home wiring. Pulling the jumper plug should disconnect their circuit, but it is safer to open the box and look at the wiring. Not having a dial tone on a classic phone set is diagnostic for a disconnected circuit.

The demarc will have two "sides," accessed by two different covers, you generally need a special wrench to open the company side. When you open the customer side, you will see where the house wiring ties into the junction box.

Before you try to wire the ATA (the box that translates VoIP to classic telephone wiring) make sure that it is rated to supply sufficient signal to the number of drops you want to drive (your classic phone sets plus stuff like answering machines, etc.) Most ATAs will only support a couple of phone sets.

It is generally a mistake to assume traditional phone concepts have equivalency in VoIP. The latter has more in common with other TCP/IP networking services than classic telephony. It, simply, does not work the same way from a nuts and bolts perspective.

"Real" VoIP uses VoIP phone sets that hook directly to your LAN and interface individually with your VoIP provider. You will have much more flexibility if you replace your classic phone sets with VoIP phones, and then you don't have to worry about ATA issues.

That should do it.

Keep in mind that it will screw with your alarm system if you have one. The 'test jack' you speak of is also designed to be moisture resistant only when the thing is plugged in. Static will be the end result. Disconnecting any other wires may lead to improper grounding of the external lines to your house. Removing wires from behind the posts will also need to have them spliced together instead.

Does your VoIP setup and router have a battery back up? A good one? The back up on the copper line is good for several days, It power isn't restored in several days, they usually run a generator at the cabinet in the event of a major disaster. These are fed by the same lines that the cell tower works off. (key word: works ).

The greatest VoIP router is no good if it doesn't do anything when you need it most. Please verify that your VoIP lines are properly routed for dialing 911 or an emergency call. Some VoIP lines will give you a dispatcher several states away.

Other than that, it's great!

Yes, will have a battery backup. Not as good as the copper, of course, but enough to carry me until I fire up generators in the event of a long term outage.

My home security system has been converted to a cellular communicator, so that’s no longer an issue.

Any good way to seal/protect against moisture once I disconnect the plug outside? Put a dummy plug in the jack?

In answer to your first question: Yes

In answer to your second question: Nothing. Those connectors aren't gas-tight when together, anyway.

Btw: I would, and did, remove the customer-side wiring (red/green pair, should be) from the terminals in there, rather than rely on just the plug.

 
If it's like mine, all you need is a "security" allen head bit (the kind with a hole in the center, just like "security" torx bits) to access the telco side of the box. You can disconnect your house wires there.

VOIP? Better make sure your Internet (ADSL) is not coming in on the copper wires (which is possible).