Since I can’t get anyone with a portable mill to even get back to me, I’m looking at a small Granberg Alaskan chainsaw mill. Anyone have a reason to get one brand of chainsaw over the other. Prices for comparable 20” models are all within $30-50.

My vote goes for Stihl #1 and Echo #2. The main thing is what's available local to you, both sales and service.

I have an echo 590 20 inch. Cuts everything I’ve thrown at it. Just used it yesterday on an aged oak stump to carve out some turning blocks.

You’d probably be fine with any of them. I went echo because of local support (2 Home Depot’s and a ace hw near, but the ace has gone stihl since).

I no longer have need for a chainsaw, but when I did, I had Husqvarna that served me well for 20 years.

We have dealers for all three brands in this area. BTW, yes, I know I need a ripping chain also.

When comparing saw brands & models, be certain to look at more than bar length. Bars can be swapped at will.

Engine displacement -- cc or ci.
Horsepower.
Consumer/ranch grade vs. professional models.
Weight, although for mil usage this may not be important.

Once all that is determined, choose your type of chain.

I haven't milled with a chainsaw, but I've discussed it with a few. Don't scrimp on horsepower. Make certain your saw is up to the task of oiling whatever length of bar you use. Lots of milling is supposedly harder on saws than felling and bucking.

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Between Dad, BIL, and I we've had a number of saws over the years. For the last decade our primary felling/bucking saws were Stihl 310 and Stihl 390 -- ranch-level saws. I recently bought a Stihl 400 CM, our first pro-level saw. There's a huge difference between a casual saw and a pro saw.

^^^What Fritz said^^^

Even in the same brand, there’s a big difference. A Stihl MS261 is a completely different animal compared to a Stihl MS290.

If its for real long term use, you want Stihl commercial (not consumer) saws. At the consumer saw level the differences between the brands is nill as its all price point driven.

Commercial Stihl.

quote:

Originally posted by fritz:
Lots of milling is supposedly harder on saws than felling and bucking.

Rip cutting is lot harder on a saw than a crosscut, takes longer, generates more friction heat, big chips to clear.

Is this a game changer, the Stihl HEXA filing system. About to become available here, I see a lot of vids more extensive than this. I hadn't gotten around to posting this here, now's my chance --

Here is a snip from Consumer Reports for the top 6 of the 64 they tested:

An article about the Stihl Hexa chain:
Testing the Rapid Hexa Saw chain by Stihl

The name “Hexa” refers to the shape of the file that with its six sides forms a hexagon. The upper and lower sides of the file are, however, smooth with no edges. Instead, it´s 2 + 2 sides that together grinds the tooth into a V-shape.

Using a hexagonal file is probably a new way of developing the cutting ability for saw chains. According to Stihl, the chains will stay sharp longer, cut up to 10 % faster and furthermore be easier to sharpen compared to a conventional chain.

Stihl will during 2022 supply the Hexa chain for 1,6 mm 3/8” and for 1,3 mm 3/8”, but only for the Canadian market. Rapid Hexa will complement Rapid Super 1,6 mm chain. That means that users of e.g., Stihl MS 362, 400 and 500i will have the opportunity to try the Hexa chain.

The test by Skogsforum.se
We got access to one Hexa chain during the summer. The testing team was Lars-Erik and Henrik who have done tests for Skogsforum before. The testing saw was a Stihl 500i as the test chain fitted on that saw with an 18” bar.

Lars-Erik and Henrik gives the following remarks on the Hexa chain:
+ Much less aggressive compared to the RS chain
+ At least as good cutting ability as conventional chains
+ Easy to sharpen (after the first attempt)
– Difficult to sharpen the first time, it´s tight between tooth and depth gauge
– A new system requires adjustments in the logging teams when it comes to sharpening
– Feels passive in some angles (but which chain doesn´t?)

The biggest benefit is that the Hexa chain is at least as efficient as the RS chain but cuts smoother. The RS chain is aggressive and sometimes causes bumps in the saw. The Hexa chain shows no such tendencies.

The cutting tests (see film below) shows that the Hexa chain is faster and smoother than the Stihl RS chain. It was not fully comparable as the RS chain that we used was sharpened by hand a few times and the Hexa chain was completely new, factory grinded (which should work in favor of the RS chain). In our tests the Hexa chain was in average approx. 4 % faster.

Lars-Erik could consider switching over to Hexa. It will however take some discipline initially as it could be easy to use a round file when grinding. Furthermore, we don´t know the price for neither the chain nor the files which is an important parameter for a professional logger in such decisions.

Henrik, who has used the Hexa chain most of the two, claims that the Hexa file lasts longer than a round file. Still, it doesn’t last as long as a chain’s lifetime.

Here is a short film from the tests. It turned out to be testing only in birch as that was what was planned for the filming day. The Hexa chain cuts even smoother in softwood.

*****
Bottom line from what I gather:
Hexa cuts slightly faster than Stihl's yellow RS (full chisel) chain.
Hexa cuts slightly smoother than Stihl's yellow RS chain. A little less bouncing of the saw.
Files will be more expensive.
Probably no electric grinding systems are available at this time.
I suspect rock and nail damage to the teeth will deteriorate cutting ability even more than an RS chain.

From the web videos I saw, much of the testing was done with a Stihl 500i. Big pro saw, fuel injected (not the traditional carburetor), costs around $1400. Kick ass chainsaw -- well above what Joe Blow Consumer will use.

Husky:Stihl

Ford:Chevy

I started out as a McCulloch guy. Issued one by the MT Department of State Lands (now DNRC) when fighting fires as a youngin. I loved that old yellow saw.

McCulloch got bought out by Husky and I've been a Husky guy since. No other particular reason why.

I had a Big Husky Rancher for about 3 or 4 years. And then it blew the spark plug out of the saw! I shit you not the damned spark plug came shooting out and the threads were packed with whatever metal they use. (Aluminum?)

quote:

Originally posted by fritz:
Between Dad, BIL, and I we've had a number of saws over the years. For the last decade our primary felling/bucking saws were Stihl 310 and Stihl 390 -- ranch-level saws. I recently bought a Stihl 400 CM, our first pro-level saw. There's a huge difference between a casual saw and a pro saw.

When fritz and I aren't talking about guns and shooting matches, we're talking about chainsaws! I heat our house with firewood. After fritz's report on the Stihl 400CM, I picked one up. There is a huge difference between it and my older MS290 Farm Boss, not even close. It has so much more torque. Wish I had bought a Pro saw many cords ago!

^^^ I'm not familiar with the Stihl line, but I understand what you are saying.

For many years I used an average Husky rancher that has cut a forest worth of trees and is still going strong. At 6'3", my low back has been an issue for some time, so a few years back I bought a new Husky with a 36" bar...my what a difference! More horsepower, longer bar...you just can't go wrong with them big pro saws.

quote:

Here is a snip from Consumer Reports for the top 6 of the 64 they tested:

These saws are not ones for real use.

Stihl has been redesigning it's saws and the homeowner grades are getting somewhat value engineered. Country of origin is now questionable. However, it's also been said about Husqvarna in their smaller saws, too.

In the commercial grades ie not cheap they are apparently all they ever were, and using it in a sawmill application its going to take that kind of saw to handle the work load. I'd look at the commercial grade and dig on the internet for reviews etc.

There is an arborist forum I always check to see what I'm getting into - they steered me ok dropping down from a Farm Boss to a MS170 - advantages and disadvantages. I caught on that small saw can do my work fine, but the trigger assembly is nothing like the bigger saw and simply won't shut off - I have to choke it to stop. New design is deficient and causes it to pop out of place.

No longer a Stihl fan but this saw will still outlast me.

I do not understand your question. But if you are planning to do anything with an Alaskan chainsaw mill you need to spend upwards of $1500 for just your saw and it won't have anything resembling a 20" bar. ????.

And yes it will be a Stihl.

Virtually everything posted so far has nothing to do with a saw for an Alaskan saw mill.

I guess there are toy imitations.

Stihl fan here. I have a 028 Farm Boss that was purchased new in 1988. Still use it regularly. The fuel I used (alcohol/gas mix) ruined a carburetor, but otherwise it has been trouble free/completely reliable. Did try it on a friends sawmill attachment and it worked, but poorly. I attribute that to under powered for the job and not having a ripping chain.

In your case I would up-size the saw from whatever you are considering and definitely be sure it is a commercial model. I would also make it a Stihl, provided you have a dealer that is a reasonable distance. I tend to stock spare chains so with the web the dealers don’t even have to be that close.

For fuel? Alcohol free, all the time. Why? Alcohol can dissolve with water. Water in an aluminum carburetor can allow the aluminum to “corrode” and plug itself. In my experience it is not repairable.