A group of us are toying with the idea. It seems like a hefty challenge but doable in a good weather window in summertime.

Just curious about anyone’s experiences or tips. We’ll be using Exum Guides most likely.

We’re all somewhat local and familiar with some of the trails and hazards of the area, but the mountain is another story. It’s been a day or two since I’ve been on a roped climb.

Nope, but you’re sure talking to the right guide service.

I’ve done it solo and with a group of friends

Which route you looking at?

From the backside it’s not a bad hike. Pretty easy really over a couple days

The Classic route/Exum Ridge is typically guided and roped. It’s intermediate difficulty 5.2-5.4. Only a couple miles but takes a day to peak and return. Just be acclimated and in good shape to not be a danger to yourself and others. 13,804 you need a bunch of red blood cells

I solo’d the Grand, Freemont and Gannet in a summer while I was working for USFS

I've only hiked parts of the Tetons but that sound like an awesome adventure.

You should be fine with those guides. I was going to as how hard the climb is but snwghst posted 5.2-5.4. That shouldn't be much of a problem.

Just make you everyone is accumulated and/or has some experience above 10,000'. Do a little exercise at those altitudes and you can feel it. I speak from experience coming from the east coast and playing in the Tetons.

Thanks. Exam has an exclusive route that’s supposed to be more mild.

5.4 is not a bad deal.

I've hiked to the start of the Teton's technical climbs. It's a beautiful area. Exum has some good guides.

I haven't climbed Teton, but I know some who have. The Exum route can get a bit crowded in mid summer on a good weather weekend. I planned to do the full Exum Ridge with a buddy, but it never panned out.

Be in great shape. High altitude, a long day, carrying a pack, strange terrain, exposure, some technical climbing, possible weather -- they all add up to stress and fatigue.

My technical climbs at altitude in Colorado include the Ellingwood Arete on Crestone Needle, Casual Route on Longs Peak, Y Couloir on Epsilon, Kieners on Longs Peak, Northcutt-Carter on Hallett Peak, North Ridge of The Spearhead. In the Bugaboos of Canada I've been up Snowpatch Route, NE ridge of Bugaboo Spire, West Ridge of Pigeon Spire, and Ears Between of Crescent Spire. Understand that 5.whatever at altitude is a way different than 5.whatever at your local crag.

If you have the opportunity to climb Teton, by all means do it.

quote:

Originally posted by fritz:
Understand that 5.whatever at altitude is a way different than 5.whatever at your local crag.

If you have the opportunity to climb Teton, by all means do it.

This. You may have heard the saying, "climb 5.12 at the gym so you can climb 5.10 at the crag so you can climb 5.8 in the alpine.

That said, the standard route is 5.4, but weather and conditions can change the difficulty level quite quickly.

I've never used a guide service (research, planning the route, executing, and overcoming unforseen obstacles is half the challenge/experience in my mind) but Exum has a great reputation and I wouldn't hesitate recommending or using them.

I know a girl who used Exum on Grand Teton with a group of friends. She had a good bit of experience hiking in the Wasatch (steep and rocky), but very little technical climbing experience outside the gym. She said she had a blast and the guide was super helpful and accommodating.

Enjoy your climb, such beautiful country. Also for a much easier day, check into taking the breakfast boat trip on Jenny Lake. There are some stunning views of the mountains you cannot get from anywhere else and the spread on the island is an excellent meal.

I've done the Grand without any hired guides.

If you're hiring a service, Exum is the premier outfit in that area.

Exum has the reputation of being great outfit. JHMG is also a good option, I had a buddy that guided for them for years and speaks very highly of them. JHMG has a camp above the saddle below the TeePee Pillar that looks very nice. Exum I believe camps at the saddle hut.

I’ve never been on a guided trip with either but I’ve encountered their guides before and all have been extremely professional. I’ve climbed the durrance to the upper Exum and Petzoldt Ridge routes on the Grand, descent via Owen Spaulding for both. The benefit I would say to going guided with a known group is the route finding. Staying on route has been my biggest challenge on the Grand. The upper Exum has so many options I’m not even sure I’ve ever done it the “correct” way. The descent i found equally confusing.

I’ve had very good experiences going private guided while traveling solo, and with known groups. I haven’t done a group made up of people I don’t know in a long time. One person with bad fitness/attitude can unfortunately ruin it for everyone.

A friend and I have done many group hikes in the Yosemite backcountry with the Scouts. We've had some amazing experiences in the back country.

Last summer he hired a guide for himself and his four boys (late teens to late 20s) and the hiked up those Teton spires. He said it was the most amazing expedition he's ever been on.

I don't know which outfit he used, but he didn't spare any expense.