A bad spark plug boot can cause carbon tracking along the outside of the plug and the spark ground out. Switching the coils/boots means it will be a while before the spark has created a new carbon track in its new location. Then the missfire will return.

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:
Thanks guys. I swapped the coil between #6 and #4. Cleared codes and then started engine.

Weird - now I have misfire only on #1. #4 is not misfiring as I would have expected. Thoughts?

I'm passing by the dealer later this morning. I have about an hour to decide if I should buy 2 coils, 1 coil or none. Help?

I decided to try to replace just the coils that are bad, if any. I'm going to swap cars w/ my wife until we can buy something new for her (need to raise a little money). So, just want to fix the minimum for trade-in.

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Your code 301 means misfire #1 cyl.....306 means misfire #6.... Since you move coils now it's only #1 misfiring and 6 &4 are OK.
Seems like maybe # 6 coil wasn't on good, or cause it only acts up when hot ? I would swap # 1 coil with another cylinder and see. But it sound like coils going bad.

I'd replace all the coil packs, if they are the originals. If you're going to keep the car for a long time, keep the four that weren't throwing codes as possible spares. If you're close to needing plugs again, might as well change those too.

Move the #1 Coil see if the same thing happens.

It would be a good idea to go ahead and replace them all if the problem moves or goes away, coils last quite a while, they do wear out, new plugs are always a good idea.

Thanks guys. We’ve been debating whether to keep the car and just fix as needed or replace with new. This is my wife’s car. I think she has lost confidence in the car and wants to replace at this point. So, I’ll probably just fix the minimum to get us to the point where I have funds to buy - probably by Jan.

I bought one coil. Will replace #1. I may try #1 in the even bank (maybe 4 again).

We’ll start there and see if the car will be gtg for now. And then figure out what to with #6/4. Maybe leave as is until it breaks.

I’m driving the car until we get a new one. Wife will drive my car for now.

iirc 0301 is a MAS code for it needing to be cleaned/replaced

At least thats what it was on my Tundra

I've had a hesitation for a while now but my car won't throw a code.

Okay - I replaced #1 coil with a new one from the dealer. One thing I noticed is that I've got a mix of two part numbers -- webz suggests that the original has been replaced w/ the new part number I got from the dealer. So maybe all good.

In any case, the car seems to be driving well right now; took it around the block (4 miles) without issue.

Again, I only replaced #1; I have #4 and #6 still switched and no issues right now. I'll keep an eye on it. The even bank is easy to access and replace. The odds are a pain.

Thanks guys for all the help!! The part was expensive $150 but if it's all I need until the car is dumped, I'm happy.

You paid $150 for a single coil pack?

Yes.

Online it’s about $105 -125. Dealer was $135 + tax. Overpaid for expediency.

Damn. An oem Bosch coil pack for my BMW is $30

They're $25-$50 at rockauto.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/ca...n,ignition+coil,7060

My BMW coil packs are $30 at Autozone.

Yep - this looks like it for $54: https://www.rockauto.com/en/mo...04&cc=1387054&jsn=26

But wanted to test / fix today so that if necessary I can still get it into the shop tomorrow or Wed to fix this week. Overpaid, I know. But wanted to be sure I had the right part (at least per the dealer) since I'm not an expert at this stuff.

The webz told me to specifically NOT buy a Bosch coil - don't work to well in my car for whatever reason.

Hey, don't worry about overpaying...life happens and sometimes you can't wait for parts to show up...look at the bright side, you saved some money on labor & you're gaining some great experience

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:
Yep - this looks like it for $54: https://www.rockauto.com/en/mo...04&cc=1387054&jsn=26

But wanted to test / fix today so that if necessary I can still get it into the shop tomorrow or Wed to fix this week. Overpaid, I know. But wanted to be sure I had the right part (at least per the dealer) since I'm not an expert at this stuff.

The webz told me to specifically NOT buy a Bosch coil - don't work to well in my car for whatever reason.

Glad you got it fixed. No need to replace all the coil packs just replace them when they go bad. You could have one go bad and go another 50,000 miles without any other having issues or one could go bad next week. Just replace as needed.

Rockauto is a great source for parts. I've found Amazon sometimes is better if I know the part number especial if you have prime.

It may not throw a code for the other one. Sometimes you can have multiple cylinders misfiring when the issue is really with just one. I would bet the other that was misfiring is opposite the bad one and/or fires right after it.

Thanks again guys. You helped tremendously.

I’m debating whether to buy a spare and keep it and tools in the car. But planning to get rid of the car by Jan and buy a new one.

These things look so simple. What could possibly go wrong in these things? And justify $150?