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10-8
Picture of Apphunter
posted
I am the proud new owner of a 1984 CJ7.

The previous owner replaced the floor and did a poor job of it. The rear seat and any mounting hardware were not reinstalled. I have kids and would like to be able to drive both of them around.

I am gonna hit the junkyard this weekend to see if I can find parts before I order some. But I have no idea what to bring to remove the seats. I need the seat belts too. Does anybody who drives a YJ mind telling me what tools I should bring to the junkyard?

JD
 
Posts: 929 | Registered: November 06, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Thank you
Very little
Picture of HRK
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I googled it, lots of CJ videos on seats, might have a few to go through to get the details on what you need tool wise.

Imagine a can of Liquid Wrench will be in order and some wasp spray if it's a Upullit Lot.

You might try talking with a CJ jeep aftermarket parts company like Corbeau, they make a replacement CJ rear seat, and most likely have the information you need.

https://corbeau.com/safari/
 
Posts: 24851 | Location: Gunshine State | Registered: November 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Lawyers, Guns
and Money
Picture of chellim1
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quote:
I am the proud new owner of a 1984 CJ7.

Nice. I've always wanted one and that's a great year. I made several Mardi Gras trips in a Jamboree of that year back in college. It was a blast.
The best Jeeps are 1980-1986.



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-rduckwor
 
Posts: 25079 | Location: St. Louis, MO | Registered: April 03, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Don't expect any answers to be correct. Jeeps generally get rebuilt over time. The original bolts were probably torx head style. Its that funny star shaped bit. I have no idea what size they were originally, but most users replace them with standard American size bolt heads. Vice Grips don't do well with the Torx head bolts because they're kind of rounded and not designed to be removed with standard tools.

Maybe just time to swallow your pride and head for the nearest Harbor Freight. They sell them as sets or kits. Working on a jeep requires a full set of them and both standard and metric tools. If you own a jeep, you can expect to work on it yourself. They run through generations of fixes by various owners. There are no generally accepted ways to fix things, and if there are, no one bothers adhering to them. From the beginning jeeps have been subject to shade tree fixes.

Lucky for you, jeep owners will show you what they did to fix things. Shop labor will be expensive and generally no better than the guy down the road. The guy who said later CJs are the best ones probably hasn't owned enough to speak with any authority. I've had at least one in the garage or driveway, or both since 1977, sometimes 2. Get all the catalogs.

There are parts of jeeps that are better from model to model. The newest ones have far and away the best engines. They actually make power. The catch is they don't swap in easily. Old CJs can be found all over. Dumps, junk yards, and side yards of guys trying to keep their primary one running. The 6 cyls were generally junk and under powered. The bright side of that is a lot of AMC V8s are easy swaps. Just the motor mounts need to change. Bolt patterns on transmissions are generally the same, except the YJs that some retarded Frenchman designed. Your year originally used awful carburetors. They were electric and they wore themselves out. We replaced them with other 2bbls because the original design was expensive and junk.

For fun, be aware that the factory only installed weak and wimpy 304 V8s, but the entire line generally bolts up, right up thru 401s. they give you enough power to get out of your own way. Those came in trucks, and even old AMC cars. The preferred ones were 360s. The 390s had rods the size of pencils, and about as strong.

Some things to do. First, replace your Ujoints, all of them. 4 in the drive shafts and one each in the front axles. Those are best bought with grease fittings. Then regrease your wheel bearings. Do it right the first time, not out on the trail or beside the road. A lot of jeep clubs have swap meets. Good parts cheap. But you've got to figure out how to install them.


Unhappy ammo seeker
 
Posts: 18394 | Location: Kentucky, USA | Registered: February 25, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Oh, back to the back seat thing. Lots of jeepers have one sitting in their garage. I have one up in the top of the garage I haven't seen in years. Under crap. Jeep guys have other jeep friends. They're cheaper than junk yards. Ask around.

The seat belts generally were bolted to the seats them selves. Some places won't even sell belts separate, too much liability. As a hint, when you see a guy in a jeep just sitting, go talk to him. Its summer and tops are off. Look at what others have done. You might even get lucky and find a local jeep club.

And CJs aren't wranglers. Thats a name foisted on the vehicles after the frenchies took over and tried to fix what wasn't broken. They made things worse. Square headlight jeeps were YJs/wranglers.


Unhappy ammo seeker
 
Posts: 18394 | Location: Kentucky, USA | Registered: February 25, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
10-8
Picture of Apphunter
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quote:
Originally posted by rburg:
Oh, back to the back seat thing. Lots of jeepers have one sitting in their garage. I have one up in the top of the garage I haven't seen in years. Under crap. Jeep guys have other jeep friends. They're cheaper than junk yards. Ask around.

The seat belts generally were bolted to the seats them selves. Some places won't even sell belts separate, too much liability. As a hint, when you see a guy in a jeep just sitting, go talk to him. Its summer and tops are off. Look at what others have done. You might even get lucky and find a local jeep club.

And CJs aren't wranglers. Thats a name foisted on the vehicles after the frenchies took over and tried to fix what wasn't broken. They made things worse. Square headlight jeeps were YJs/wranglers.


I had some idea of what I was getting involved in when I bought it. I know the the tubs in the YJs are very similar to the CJ tubs because a lot of tubs are swapped over. I figured that a YJ seat and brackets would be easier to find than CJ parts. I was just trying to limit what I needed to carry around in the junkyard to remove the parts.
 
Posts: 929 | Registered: November 06, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Your profile doesn't list where you live. I'd give you the one in the garage, but you've have to help find it.


Unhappy ammo seeker
 
Posts: 18394 | Location: Kentucky, USA | Registered: February 25, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
10-8
Picture of Apphunter
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I live near winston-salem, NC thats a little bit of drive to Kentucky but I do love bourbon. HMMMMMM
 
Posts: 929 | Registered: November 06, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Pretty sure I've seen them recently on Ebay while looking for front seat brackets.

Edit: I was thinking brackets only, but I know I've seen seats as well.


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Posts: 21576 | Location: 18th & Fairfax  | Registered: May 17, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
My other Sig
is a Steyr.
Picture of .38supersig
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The bit needed for the removal of the seat belt anchors isn't a true Torx bit. Back in the day they used a different style bit called a Hexlobular bit.

You can kinda get them loose with a size 45 Torx, but it would also be expected to round them both. Hopefully someone has already replaced the bolt(s).



 
Posts: 9630 | Location: Somewhere looking for ammo that nobody has at a place I haven't been to for a pistol I couldn't live without... | Registered: December 02, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of vthoky
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quote:
Originally posted by Apphunter:
I live near winston-salem, NC thats a little bit of drive to Kentucky but I do love bourbon. HMMMMMM


Road trip!! Cool




God bless America.
 
Posts: 14315 | Location: Virginia | Registered: July 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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