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Bypass vs Anvil Loppers? Login/Join 
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I have recently moved onto a property that is covered with small honey suckle bushes that must die. Everything online says quickest is to cut and coat with a herbicide. I already have chainsaws but was thinking a lopper might be a much quicker method for removal the smallest ones before needing the chainsaw.

What are people thoughts on bypass vs Anvil for the best Loppers?
 
Posts: 548 | Location: Field of Dreams | Registered: September 07, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Bypass are best for pruning roses etc. For your job it does not matter. Buy the best you can afford. Felco is one of best. It is hard work and power shears would be much better. Bushhogging would be my choice.
 
Posts: 17643 | Location: Stuck at home | Registered: January 02, 2015Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I have faced this problem as well. Bush honeysuckle will take over everything and will crowd out and kill your native trees and just about everything else. It's horrible stuff.

As for Bypass vs Anvil Loppers... both are useful but the Anvil Loppers will make the thicker branches much easier to cut. Sometimes the stuff is so thick that you have to cut your way to the point where you can get a chainsaw in near the trunk.

Good luck!

Asian bush honeysuckles invade quickly and outcompete native plants. Because they leaf out so early, they steal light from native plants that need a sunny forest floor in spring in order to flower, fruit, and gather energy for the next year. Birds and small animals eat the berries and deposit the seeds elsewhere, spreading this noxious weed. Learn to identify this aggressive invader, and then kill it before it spreads more seeds elsewhere.

Distribution in Missouri
Statewide. Primarily near urban areas, where it has escaped from cultivation, but it quickly spreads to natural habitats.

Status
Invasive. Originally from Asia; introduced for landscaping, wildlife cover, and erosion control. Probably the most aggressive exotic plant that has escaped and naturalized in urban areas, where the woodland understory is often a solid layer of green from this shrub. It tolerates many habitats and can become established nearly anywhere that birds can go. Prescribed burning, hand pulling of seedlings, cutting, and herbicide treatments are all employed to try to control this tough, weedy plant.


https://nature.mdc.mo.gov/disc...de/bush-honeysuckles



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Posts: 24772 | Location: St. Louis, MO | Registered: April 03, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Do you have a *straight shaft* weed eater? If so you could likely attach a 3 blade brush cutter blade on it. This is what I've been using on rose, barberry, briar, mall saplings, etc for years. Lets you cut them off at ground level without having to bend over and get into the thorns, easy peasy.

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Posts: 7350 | Location: Northern WV | Registered: January 17, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Both, but keep them sharp! Bow bar on the chainsaw for the stuff that is too big for the lopers!


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Posts: 624 | Location: Idaho, west of Beaver Dicks Ferry | Registered: August 22, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Originally posted by ZSMICHAEL:
Bypass are best for pruning roses etc. For your job it does not matter. Buy the best you can afford. Felco is one of best. It is hard work and power shears would be much better. Bushhogging would be my choice.


Agreed. Bypass pruners are best used when doing selective or targeted pruning...pruning limbs/ branches/ stalks that are within the diameter cutting capabilities of them, and pruning to promote growth. Big fan of Felcos for this type of pruning.

In trying to remove an invasive species like honeysuckle the "nuke it from orbit/ "kill it with fire" approach is better suited to the task.

Indiscriminate Bushogging would be best, if possible, followed up with chain saw or other power methods, followed up with an herbicide.

You might consider talking with your state cooperative extension office and see what their recommendations would be for your area. The call is free and, as a tax payer, you may have already paid for the service.
 
Posts: 7324 | Location: the Centennial state | Registered: August 21, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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IIRC, flat anvil types are good for dead plants, while curved are better for live plants.

Might consider Bahco brand if you can't afford Felco (felco is my first pick) . Reasonably priced, NOT Chinese, spare parts available for repairs if needed.
I had the bahco p160-sl-75 that worked well; lended to neighbors, never to be seen again.

I also use a silky zubat 270-33 pruning saw for anything from 25-150mm dia.


--Tom
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Posts: 1622 | Location: Lehigh County,PA-USA | Registered: February 20, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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