A while back I asked about drywall for my garage. Someone mentioned leaving a 1/8" gap but I forget if it was between sheets (a vertical gap) or at the bottom (horizontal). Maybe the gap was for OSB.

I'm finally going to have a minute to do some work but I just can't remember.

definitely want a gap at the bottom, for flooring, carpet, etc. to butt into and still not touch the sheetrock.

Most sheets have a bevel at the edges and you don't need a gap between sheets - just mud and tape.

1/8” isn’t much at the bottom. Any chance of water getting into the garage? I might do a 1/2” up if there was ever the chance of water. Drywall will wick water right into it. Potential mold/mildew.

Ceiling(lid) goes on first. You can leave gaps on the corners where the walls will but up to it. Assuming you are using 5/8" or 1/2" on your walls a 1/4" inch is great. If things are out of square a lot you might have to angle cut them to ensure your walls will cover the gaps. All of your but joints should be tight, especially factory edges. But nothing is perfect and you inevitably will have gaps. Especially if you have never hung rock before. You just want to minimize them as much as possible. It will mean less time finishing if everything is neat and tight. You have to determine how mad you want to make the taper You also will want to leave a 1/2" gap at the bottom of your walls if it buts up to concrete to avoid moisture absorption.

There is not going to be any carpet. Cement floor with at least 4" (block footer) between the floor and where the drywall will begin. I also doubt I'll bother finishing the walls. I probably won't even mud the joints.

I'd still leave a gap between the block and the drywall. Concrete foundations can sweat in the summer. Better to keep the moisture away from the drywall and put a small piece of vinyl trim (1/4 round) to cover it.

Use screws anywhere possible it will make things much easier to adjust the depth, remove misses, or remove pieces as needed.

Count your outlets/cutouts before you get started. Snap some pictures if you can. There is nothing more fun than trying to find a buried outlet

you may consider installing it lengthwise opposed to vertical

if a hole gets put into it you'll have a tape line at 4ft to repair a section. this is a common practice around me for ease of repair after storms

I'd have at least a 1/2" gap between the concrete and drywall. Your garage slab may have a small slope to it for drainage purposes which will really piss you off trying to keep that ~1/2" gap all the way.

quote:

Originally posted by MattW:
I'd have at least a 1/2" gap between the concrete and drywall. Your garage slab may have a small slope to it for drainage purposes which will really piss you off trying to keep that ~1/2" gap all the way.

Oh yes lot's of fun A chalk line works great for this.

quote:

Originally posted by xantom:
Count your outlets/cutouts before you get started. Snap some pictures if you can. There is nothing more fun than trying to find a buried outlet

Oh, I still have to install those.

quote:

Originally posted by mark123:

quote:

Originally posted by xantom:
Count your outlets/cutouts before you get started. Snap some pictures if you can. There is nothing more fun than trying to find a buried outlet

Oh, I still have to install those.

Are you going cut out your outlets by hand or are you using a router?

quote:

Originally posted by mark123:

quote:

Originally posted by xantom:
Count your outlets/cutouts before you get started. Snap some pictures if you can. There is nothing more fun than trying to find a buried outlet

Oh, I still have to install those.

Put in a couple more than what you think you need, and install 20 amp outlets if you have the bigger wire. That way you can plug in and run any tools you want.

If the garage is attached to the house, you some sort of protection from fire. 5/8 sheetrock and taping all joints with one coat.

If not just put up nice plywood 1/2 thick.

quote:

Originally posted by Captain Morgan:
If the garage is attached to the house ...

It's not.

You want the gap at the bottom, I prefer 1/2", this is so when you get water on the garage floor it doesn't wick up the drywall. Cover the gap with synthetic base board. Also it's best to use 1x2" boards, secure that to the concrete, then secure drywall to the boards for an air gap.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
You want the gap at the bottom, I prefer 1/2", this is so when you get water on the garage floor it doesn't wick up the drywall. Cover the gap with synthetic base board. Also it's best to use 1x2" boards, secure that to the concrete, then secure drywall to the boards for an air gap.

I doubt 4" of water would stay in my garage. I'll get pics on Sunday when I clean up the tools.

I’d still mud the joints at least one coat for fire protection. Sheetrock’s ability to delay a fire is impressive, but only if you complete the barrier by taping the joints.

I have done lots of remodeling and please trust me on what I am saying.
Tape ,mud and finish.
Then prime the walls and ceilings. Paint it also.
Rock discolors in time and wicks moisture.
Turns a shitty brown and its a real pain with expensive kilz to bring it back to even take paint.

quote:

Originally posted by mark123:

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
You want the gap at the bottom, I prefer 1/2", this is so when you get water on the garage floor it doesn't wick up the drywall. Cover the gap with synthetic base board. Also it's best to use 1x2" boards, secure that to the concrete, then secure drywall to the boards for an air gap.

I doubt 4" of water would stay in my garage. I'll get pics on Sunday when I clean up the tools.

No, a 1/2" gap from the floor to the drywall, not 4". If you pull in with a vehicle and it's raining you're going to get some water run off. I've never seen a garage floor that was flat and sloped properly, so the water will want to pool a little in one area or another. The 1/2" keeps the drywall high enough that the water doesn't touch it. Then you just screw the synthetic baseboard to cover the air gap between the floor and drywall so dirt and crap doesn't get underneath it and it looks better.

The 1x2" strips keep the drywall 1" off of the concrete wall (not floor) to keep an air gap in case the concrete sweats or to run conduit. Screw them to the wall with tap cons, screw the drywall to the 1x2"s. You might also want 2x2"s instead for this so you can run electrical conduit inside of the drywall for outlets and such.