So I was lax in tending to two of my rifles I rarely ever shoot anymore. They sat, collecting dust...and also a tiny bit of rust.

I think something metallic may have been laying across the barrels, because the two patches are about the same size and in roughly the same location. It may have been zippers from some soft cases.

Anyway, the two guns have tiny rust patches, maybe half the size of a pea. Looks just like surface rust and not anything worse.

What's my best option for getting rid of it and then protecting the guns?

Apply gun oil or penetrating oil, and scrub with a bronze brush or bronze wool. Follow up with another coating of gun oil for protection.

I start with a normal green kitchen scouring pad it's going to take some finish off of course. Go little by little in the small areas until the spots are removed. You can patch reblue using a blueing pen or jar. It won't match so if that bothers you you can reblue or parkerize the whole barrel.

I recommend the most fine steel wool with gun oil. I used it many many times with great success. I think OOOO is the most fine.

I've heard of using a penny but haven't hed to try it.
Don't know how it works compared to other methods, could be worse - could be better. Don't know.
It's the same principle as others have posted, using something soft with oil to rub it off.

Found one vid here:
Using a Penny

quote:

Originally posted by coloradohunter44:
I recommend the most fine steel wool with gun oil. I used it many many times with great success. I think OOOO is the most fine.

I've done the same thing with several firearms and they come out great. 0000 steel wool is the right stuff to use.

After you get it off put some EEZOX on it ~ great stuff.

Well oiled OOOO steel wool with gentle pressure with remove surface rust with almost no discernible effect on bluing. Anything deep enough to cause pitting will require sterner measures.

The penny trick works to elevated rust that occurs when it is deep enough to cause pitting; make sure it is an ALL COPPER penny (minted before 1982), and not a plated zinc penny. Put a drop of oil on the rust and carefully back and forth with the penny until the raised portion is gone, then wipe clean. the pitting will be permanent, but the most obvious sign you can see or feel will be gone. It does work.

Use brass wool - never steel wool!

A large caliber (7.62, etc.) rifle case with the mouth hammered flat is also excellent for removing rust.

.

I use the same method as Rogue. BRONZE wool will NOT remove finish , unlike steel or scrubbies.

Careful rubbing with copper will often remove rust without causing more damage to the bluing. US one cent coins (“pennies”) minted in 1981 or before (except 1943) are more or less pure copper and can be used. I don’t resort to that method, though, unless the rust is deep enough to cause pitting. Fine bronze wool (Brownells) would probably be better and less likely to cause damage. I’ve sometimes used brushes with fine copper bristles (not bore brushes), but they may cause fine scratches.

For light rust, though, I always start conservatively. Heavy rubbing with a bit of CLP or oil on a cloth patch often works, and if soft cloth isn’t effective, move up to denim or canvas.

I don’t resort to any grade steel wool until the above methods have proved to be ineffective. Steel wool and various “scrubbers” will tend to remove not only the rust but surrounding bluing. It may come to that, but that’s never how I start.

I have used 0000 steel wool with great success. Then I used Butchers or Johnson’s Floor Paste Wax on all the metal. Wipe it on (I keep a rag in the can) let it dry a few minutes, buff the excess off with a dry, clean rag. It lasts a long time. Easy to reapply anytime.

Oil soaked 0000 steel wool has always worked well for me on blued guns, and has not damaged the blue. Don't use steel wool on stainless steel though.

quote:

Originally posted by arfmel:
Oil soaked 0000 steel wool has always worked well for me on blued guns, and has not damaged the blue. Don't use steel wool on stainless steel though.

Same here, 0000 soaked in Kroil has worked for me.

Steel wool is bad at any grade. It will take off any finish that my be remaining under the surface rust. Use the copper wool or stainless steel wool with oil. Both of those two will leave any remaining finish intact. I prefer the steel wool which I use for restoring surface rusted firearms.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: beltfed21,

Please don't use steel wool. I never worked in a machine shop that allowed steel wool in the shop. There are reasons for it.

I would try some real fine 3M Brown Scotch Brite and gun oil.

Birchwood Casey makes a product. You will probably have to reblue, however.



.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: kkina,

I also have had 0 problems with oil and extra fine steel wool. However I never looked at the finish a magnifying glass either. Did a great job .

I recovered an entire barrelled action of an Anschutz rifle that had a dusting of rust after 20 years in a gun safe. I used - very carefully - a Birchwood-casey lead removing cloth - the yellow item. Worked a treat for me, and took three of them to do it.

Tac

I've had some success with Nevr-Dull removing tarnish and rust from knife blades. It pulled up most of a rust-like discoloration on a SIG 556 gas block. I haven't tried it on blued steel yet.

Creedmoor Sports has it cheaper.