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Three Generations
of Service
Picture of PHPaul
posted
I'm gearing up to try putting that a new seat cover on the motorcycle project (Honda CX650). The base is plastic, the original cover was stapled on. I need two recommendations/sources:

1. With my arthritic hands (they're actually getting bad enough that riding is becoming questionable...) a manual stapler is a non-starter. What's a good electric stapler? Probably corded, but battery isn't out of the question.

2. What staples? They need to be short (1/4" or less) and stout to seat properly in the plastic base.

TIA...




Be careful when following the masses. Sometimes the M is silent.
 
Posts: 15595 | Location: Downeast Maine | Registered: March 10, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Woke up today..
Great day!
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I used to recover the seat on my off-road motorcycle every couple years. I used an Arrow plug in stapler with 1/4 in staples. Lots of staples.
 
Posts: 1851 | Location: Chicagoland | Registered: December 10, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Optimistic Cynic
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quote:
Originally posted by cruiser68:
I used to recover the seat on my off-road motorcycle every couple years. I used an Arrow plug in stapler with 1/4 in staples. Lots of staples.
I have both battery-powered and pneumatic staplers, the latter does by far the better job, but it does mean dealing with an extension cord, compressor, and air hose so I usually grab the battery one first.

Funny, the battery stapler seems to be a pneumatic action with an air pump that activates when you squeeze the trigger. When using it, it sounds like there is an internal air pump that compresses a small reservoir inside the tool which activates the piston to drive the staple. I guess you can't get sufficient impact with an electromagnet or an inertia device, or maybe it a design that puts less duress on the battery.

This is a DeWalt 1/4" crown stapler, like this one which I use mostly for fencing, and general wood-to-wood fastening. I also have a Porter-Cable pneumatic that shoots Arrow-type T50 staples that works very well for upholstery and other lighter jobs. Finally, I have a Harbor Freight pneumatic stapler/brad nailer that is junk.

It would be nice if a tool manufacturer offered a general power head to which could be attached various "magazine assemblies" of different fasteners, staples, brads, nails, etc. rather than having to buy a separate tool for each fastener you want to use.
 
Posts: 6876 | Location: NoVA | Registered: July 22, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I had bad luck with a Stanely electric stapler. I just didn't last long, but that may have been an oddball.

I love my pneumatic stapler. I recovered all the seats on a pontoon and on two jets skis. Really saves time and a whole lot of effort.

I recommend using either Stainless or Monel staples since its a bike and could be exposed to the elements.


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Posts: 755 | Location: Raleigh, NC | Registered: May 15, 2015Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Three Generations
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Picture of PHPaul
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Based on this and other input, I ordered an Arrow pneumatic.

The tip on stainless or monel staples is a good one too. Thanks!




Be careful when following the masses. Sometimes the M is silent.
 
Posts: 15595 | Location: Downeast Maine | Registered: March 10, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Buy that Classic SIG in All Stainless,
No rail wear will be painless.
Picture of cee_Kamp
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A Honda ATV that I sold several years ago had some of the seat cover staples disintegrate from rust.
Same as you, plastic seat base, foam pad, vinyl cover stapled onto the plastic base.
I towed that ATV on a trailer behind vehicles that kicked up winter road salt.
The vinyl cover was flawless and was unattached to the base along one side of the seat due to the rusted away staples.

I carried the easily removeable ATV seat to my local auto upholstery shop and they reattached the vinyl cover with new staples for a nominal fee.
I asked them at the upholstery shop how they got the vinyl cover so smooth and tight on the plastic base.
They told me they have a machine that steams the vinyl (so it's butter soft and flexible) prior to stapling the cover onto the base.
Take it to a professional if you want professional results.
Unless of course, you have a vinyl upholstery steamer.
Perhaps you could duplicate the vinyl steamer with some infrared heat lamps, but get it too warm and you'll need another cover.



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Posts: 1600 | Registered: December 14, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Three Generations
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Picture of PHPaul
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I'll have to check a shop, if I can find one. Not a common service around here.




Be careful when following the masses. Sometimes the M is silent.
 
Posts: 15595 | Location: Downeast Maine | Registered: March 10, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Thank you
Very little
Picture of HRK
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all kinds of handheld steamers on Amazon, mostly for steaming clothing, it might be enough for you to get some ability to stretch the material.

https://www.amazon.com/steamer/s?k=steamer
 
Posts: 24507 | Location: Gunshine State | Registered: November 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by cee_Kamp:
I asked them at the upholstery shop how they got the vinyl cover so smooth and tight on the plastic base.
They told me they have a machine that steams the vinyl (so it's butter soft and flexible) prior to stapling the cover onto the base.
Take it to a professional if you want professional results.
Unless of course, you have a vinyl upholstery steamer.
Perhaps you could duplicate the vinyl steamer with some infrared heat lamps, but get it too warm and you'll need another cover.


You can get a steamer fairly cheap from Wal-Mart. I have one that I used on the jet ski seats and it does make the material much easier to work with. I did my Pontoon without one, but it was Summer and the July heat helped out a bunch. You really just need the vinyl to be warm and pliable.


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Posts: 755 | Location: Raleigh, NC | Registered: May 15, 2015Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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