So I'm replacing my basement stair treads and I haven't done much in the way of woodworking/craftsmanship like this before. I have a couple questions for you handy/builder types.

- I've picked up a 10" dual-bevel miter saw to replace my old 12" DeWalt single-bevel. This new saw has a slide-out feature and will allow me to cut the treads to width without having to turn the tread over and make a 2nd cut from the other side. What kind of blade should I get? Teeth? etc? I want to make nice cuts and I'm assuming that the ripping blade that comes with the saw itself is junk.

- I'm using red-oak treads, and we've found a Minwax stain that practically (almost identically) matches the vinyl plank floor that I already have installed. What kind of shoe-coat should I get? Any suggestions for an "eggshell" or not terribly shiny shoe coat? I don't want to change the color, but I'd love for the treads and my home-crafted red oak stair nose at the top step to be "nuke proof" if possible.

This is an entryway off of the garage, and down to the basement, so it sees a ton of traffic. I don't care too much about wear and tear, but I'd like the stairs to go into service with as much protection as I can front load, if that makes sense.

I'm planning on finishing the stairs and then installing all of them at once with glue and screws, etc.

Thanks so much in advance. I really value the wealth of experience and wisdom that gathers here.

--Kyle

More teeth is better for a clean cut.

Satin polyurethane is what I used over my oak treads.

I don’t understand the comment about avoiding to have to turn the tread over and make another cut but having said that get an 80 tooth quality blade, go slow and you won’t chip the tread.

You may already know this but it is better to install the tread then put the riser above it on top of the tread to help hold it in place...

Thanks for the info.

RE: The turn over - My miter saw wouldn't cut all the way through and I'd either need to rip with my table saw or procure a new miter saw.

My table saw skills aren't great and my little table saw isn't great.

Measure and cut each one each time,the treads can very.
Its a pain but you do not know the previous finish carpenter habits .
Another thing is old home shift and settle.

Are the stairs open or closed? Is there a skirt board? Baluster or handrail to be worried about?

Depending on the answers to the above projects like this can quickly become more difficult.

80 tooth thin kerf carbide blade for a MITER saw.
The teeth are different than a tablesaw blade.
I dont remember the term but, the angle of the teeth is different.

A good 80 tooth blade will leave smooth as glass cuts.

Edit: its hook angle this link describes the difference.
http://circularsawblade.net/hook

Thanks again for the replies!

No skirtboard or handrail. Closed - it’s like a tongue in groove paneling we’re painting.

Thanks also for the tip on the riser boards. I have the primed wood ones from Lowe’s and was going to cover the ripped back of the tread with the riser and put the ripped edge of the riser under the nose of the stair above it.


Should be pretty nice.