Wanting to add a simple powered sub to my factory head unit. I have never done this and always had an aftermarket unit that provided the preamp out.
Yes, I would be better off installing an aftermarket unit and will in due time. The van is still under warranty and just had the Nav unit replaced. So I'll wait till it dies, I do have it up for sale on some Toyota forums and maybe it will sell being so new but I doubt it.

So if I understand correctly I just tap this little guy into the left and right speaker wires the run RCA cables to the amp and I am golden.
PAC Line Output Converter

I just got new speakers to toss in the rear so I figure while I have all the interior pulled out I will tap into the rears.
I will be using a harness to go from the factory speaker plug to the aftermaket tabs. So I figured tapping into the aftermarket harness and not the factory wires.
Anything I am missing with these things?

Still pimping out the van?

You are a good man, Charlie Brown.

No, just adding a little low end that it is missing since I did not get the JBL upgrade.

That's all you need.
Some amps have speaker-level input, especially common in powered subs that are vehicle-fit - the LOC is built into the amp...

If you really wanted to bother an AudioControl LC2iB would do it cleaner than a cheap LOC.
You'll have to run power for it and find a ground.
It would also give you some adjustment for the bass roll off of the stock HU.

Edit: snidera beat me to it..

Also, if you haven't bought your powered sub yet, some of them have speaker level inputs so no LOC would be needed..

quote:

Originally posted by snidera:
That's all you need.
Some amps have speaker-level input, especially common in powered subs that are vehicle-fit - the LOC is built into the amp...

Glad you said that though now I feel like a bit of a dummy.
Took a closer look at the specs of the powered sub I am looking at and it appears to have them.

Powered Active Subwoofer Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010...cp_api_OhuwzbPR5HREF

Just make sure you get the polarity correct on the wires you tap for signal. Let me know if you need help getting that info.

quote:

Originally posted by honestlou:
Just make sure you get the polarity correct on the wires you tap for signal. Let me know if you need help getting that info.

Any suggestion on the best sort of connectors to use to tap into the new harness?
Soldering is not my strong point.

For connecting consider solder and heat shrink. Also think through how sub will filter mid and high freq from speaker level input.

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:

Any suggestion on the best sort of connectors to use to tap into the new harness?
Soldering is not my strong point.

Posi-tap connectors work very well if you can find them.
Easy to remove as well if needed..

quote:

Originally posted by 4MUL8R:
For connecting consider solder and heat shrink. Also think through how sub will filter mid and high freq from speaker level input.

Judging by the pictures at Amazon the powered unit has a built in crossover in addition to the speaker level inputs. No need to buy anything else.

I've never used those push-taps but they look interesting. If they have decent reviews from people using them in vehicles (reliable in the face of vibration) I'd go with those. The wire taps I've used before always felt super cheap and not trust-worthy. They looked kinda like a clamshell.

quote:

Originally posted by 1lowlife:

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:

Any suggestion on the best sort of connectors to use to tap into the new harness?
Soldering is not my strong point.

Posi-tap connectors work very well if you can find them.
Easy to remove as well if needed..

Thanks. Those look good reviews seem good as well.

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:

quote:

Originally posted by 1lowlife:

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:

Any suggestion on the best sort of connectors to use to tap into the new harness?
Soldering is not my strong point.

Posi-tap connectors work very well if you can find them.
Easy to remove as well if needed..

Thanks. Those look good reviews seem good as well.

These suck long-term. They're easy & work if they work, but a royal PITA when not quite right.
Cut & butt-splice crimp. red one if you can fit the 2 wires in, blue if not. Solder is 2nd choice, but more of a pain in the ass than any 'benefit'. You have hundreds of crimps in that sienna already, at least 3 in each circuit you're going to tap.
(I didn't stay at a holiday inn express, but I'm an engineer that deals with automotive wiring every day)

quote:

Originally posted by snidera:
These suck long-term. They're easy & work if they work, but a royal PITA when not quite right.
Cut & butt-splice crimp. red one if you can fit the 2 wires in, blue if not. Solder is 2nd choice, but more of a pain in the ass than any 'benefit'. You have hundreds of crimps in that sienna already, at least 3 in each circuit you're going to tap.
(I didn't stay at a holiday inn express, but I'm an engineer that deals with automotive wiring every day)

I guess I'm not clear on what 'long term' is to you.
I used them for my AMP Powersteps and some custom LED lights in my grille of pickup.
No problems whatsoever, going on 3 years.
But I only use them on projects that may be reversed.
I solder and shrink wrap everything else.