So I’ve got a cheap $8 Walmart special hatchet that is pretty much only used to split old cut fence boards into smaller old cut fence boards for getting fired going. I also have an old beat up axe that I don’t think is anything special.

I was recently provided with an old Black and Decker brunch grinder (5” model 7900).

Is there any reason I shouldn’t use it to give me a bit more of an edge on at least the cheap hatchet of not the axe too?

Check the rpm's of the bench grinder. Probably 3600. That's too fast for easy grinding of metal; you will ruin the temper quickly and easily. You can do it, but you need to do only a little at a time, and keep dipping the metal in cool water. Better if the grinder is 1800 rpm.

I prefer a belt sander.

The best instructions I have found on axe sharping
is the U.S. Forest Service pamphlet. It covers the use of files, stones and the correct way to bevel the blade.

quote:

Originally posted by amals:
Check the rpm's of the bench grinder. Probably 3600. That's too fast for easy grinding of metal; you will ruin the temper quickly and easily. You can do it, but you need to do only a little at a time, and keep dipping the metal in cool water. Better if the grinder is 1800 rpm.

Yes, 3600 is the max rpm per the info tag on the unit.

The upside is, when you kill it, you'll only be out $8

I use my bench grinder to sharpen all kinds of tools. Axes, machetes, lopers...you name it. The wheel you use makes all the difference. On one side I have light to medium grit and on the other side I have a steel brush.

A belt sander works the best. I have one but for some reason I always head to my grinder. More convenient I guess.

IF YOU HAVE A SIDE-GRINDER, put a flap wheel on it and sharpen with that followed by a fine file for the final hone. Use the same tool(s) for your lawn mower blades. Their edges will thank you.

quote:

Originally posted by FRANKT:
IF YOU HAVE A SIDE-GRINDER, put a flap wheel on it and sharpen with that followed by a fine file for the final hone. Use the same tool(s) for your lawn mower blades. Their edges will thank you.

What do you mean by side grinder? I have this bench grinder and I have a 4.5” dewalt angle grinder

Do it right, use a file

quote:

Originally posted by BillF:
The best instructions I have found on axe sharping
is the U.S. Forest Service pamphlet. It covers the use of files, stones and the correct way to bevel the blade.

This?
https://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs...m05232810/page12.htm

quote:

Originally posted by thumperfbc:

quote:

Originally posted by FRANKT:
IF YOU HAVE A SIDE-GRINDER, put a flap wheel on it and sharpen with that followed by a fine file for the final hone. Use the same tool(s) for your lawn mower blades. Their edges will thank you.

What do you mean by side grinder? I have this bench grinder and I have a 4.5” dewalt angle grinder

Angle grinder...wheel/grinding stone mounting shaft is at right angle to the motor, effectively putting the sanding/grinding tool on the "side" of the grinder instead of on a shaft that sticks straight out the end of the grinder like a common die grinder.
The flap wheels are available in many different diameters and grits at the big box stores as well as Harbor Freight...very common, very effective, very controllable and precise, and very kind to the steel you're sharpening.

quote:

Originally posted by FRANKT:

quote:

Originally posted by thumperfbc:

quote:

Originally posted by FRANKT:
IF YOU HAVE A SIDE-GRINDER, put a flap wheel on it and sharpen with that followed by a fine file for the final hone. Use the same tool(s) for your lawn mower blades. Their edges will thank you.

What do you mean by side grinder? I have this bench grinder and I have a 4.5” dewalt angle grinder

Angle grinder...wheel/grinding stone mounting shaft is at right angle to the motor, effectively putting the sanding/grinding tool on the "side" of the grinder instead of on a shaft that sticks straight out the end of the grinder like a common die grinder.
The flap wheels are available in many different diameters and grits at the big box stores as well as Harbor Freight...very common, very effective, very controllable and precise, and very kind to the steel you're sharpening.

Ok, that’s what I thought you meant but I wasn’t sure. I may even have a flap wheel somewhere. Do you lock the blade in a vice and go at it freehand with the grinder or lock the grinder in a vice and handle the blade?

quote:

Originally posted by Rightwire:
Do it right, use a file

I have no files and no not much about them. What type of file do I need and will a harbor freight quality do or should I get something a little better?

I do have a belt sander too, I could put the proper grit belt on and lie it on its back?

quote:

Originally posted by thumperfbc:

quote:

Originally posted by Rightwire:
Do it right, use a file

I have no files and no not much about them. What type of file do I need and will a harbor freight quality do or should I get something a little better?

I do have a belt sander too, I could put the proper grit belt on and lie it on its back?

You need a puck stone. Very cheap to buy, does a great job. I recommend this
.
https://lansky.com/index.php/p...dual-grit-sharpener/
.
.

.

quote:

Originally posted by Icabod:

quote:

Originally posted by BillF:
The best instructions I have found on axe sharping
is the U.S. Forest Service pamphlet. It covers the use of files, stones and the correct way to bevel the blade.

This?
https://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs...m05232810/page12.htm

https://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs...232823Pdpi72pt05.pdf

This is the one I was thinking of.

I use a belt sander,fast and safe if you clamp the ax down.
Bench grinders burn the metal and change the wedge angle.

quote:

Originally posted by OKCGene:

quote:

Originally posted by thumperfbc:

quote:

Originally posted by Rightwire:
Do it right, use a file

I have no files and no not much about them. What type of file do I need and will a harbor freight quality do or should I get something a little better?

I do have a belt sander too, I could put the proper grit belt on and lie it on its back?

You need a puck stone. Very cheap to buy, does a great job. ...
.

I agree, but be careful! I once got carried away and sharpened an axe blade to a razor edge. Later I was holding it in my right hand while reaching under it with the other hand to reposition a piece of wood. The blade very slightly grazed the back of my gloved left hand. It sliced the glove open like a razor.

Later I noticed that hand felt wet. I removed the glove and found it had made a neat cut in my skin as well. Fortunately the cut wasn't deep but it did produce a fair amount of blood. I think you want to sharpen it, but not that sharp! And be more careful and always wear gloves.

A bot off topic, and it doesn't sound like the OP has a belt sander, but this is a great video on sharpening an axe. I think he got most of his material from a forest service guide here...

https://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/htmlpubs/htm08232327/

quote:

Do you lock the blade in a vice and go at it freehand with the grinder or lock the grinder in a vice and handle the blade?

Secure whatever is being sharpened and use the grinder as it's intended to be used. Securing could be the axe handle clamped in a vice where the axe head is extended and accessible from all angles. Or clamp the handle to a saw horse or bench. Same with lawn mower blades. Or lopping shears. Or a machete...