So I'm scoping portable generators and while it's not a hard thing to simply run extension cords to the stuff I'd like available during an outage, I'd love to have something hardwired to where I only need to plug in a 30 or 50amp uplink into an external box, and then have, say, like orange sockets near my fridge/freezer and on-demand water heater.

Is this a thing?

Or does it all have to be tied into my existing wiring/panel?

Thanks for your time.

I think the question you are asking- can you install a dedicated generator circuit to power a couple of appliances ?
It will require running new wiring to the appliances , new panel with external power inlet box. You will have to unplug from the existing line and plug into dedicated “orange” generator line.
Need to calculate watts each appliance will draw, taking into account start up load. I am assuming a tankless propane water heater. A power inverter would be better for sensitive electronics (anything that has an LED display).

You can do it anyway that works for you.

I used to run extension cords from the generator to the fridge, some lamps and a few box fans. It was better then nothing but it was a pain to set up and I had cords running into and throughout the house.

You can backfeed through an existing outlet such as the dryer outlet which is easy but carries serious risks if not done properly and you still have to have a cord running from outside the house through a door or window. By powering the whole house electrical system you can run ceiling lights and fans you could not fun off of extension cords.

A transfer switch is the easiest and safest as you don't have a temporary cord entering the house and you still can power anything as long as your generator can carry the load. The different types of transfer switches is its own subject.

A transfer switch would be way cheaper than wiring in a parallel system. The wiring is already there. Why duplicate it?

You want a transfer switch - either manual or automatic (with a portable generator, an automatic will be next to useless, but it would future-proof if you installed a standby/backup later).

Have an electrician wire a generator terminal connection and either/or switch where service comes into the house. Leave breakers "on" inside for those circuits you need to run with the generator, and turn all the others off. An either/or switch would allow current to the house from either the generator, or line power, but never both. Feeding generator power into the system with line power still connected can injure or kill linemen working on damaged power lines, it is a significant concern here in hurricane country. You can have the house wired so the generator only powers certain circuits but that an be a big wiring job. With today's whole house generators there is really no need for separate circuits. Most folks are disappointed with how little they can run with portable generators, unless it is a really substantial generator.

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Originally posted by HayesGreener:
Have an electrician wire a generator terminal connection and either/or switch where service comes into the house.

That's an inexpensive way to go. You can just use a generator receptacle, a breaker, and a panel lockout. Keep in mind, though, that this will be a non-separately derived system because it will not interrupt the neutral. Therefore, you will need to ensure that your generator does not have a neutral-to-ground bond. Many transfer switches are advertised "GFCI Ready", or something to this effect. These transfer switches create a SDS (separately derived system) because they also interrupt the neutral. A bonded generator with an uninterrupted neutral can create potential between your bonded service panel and the generator frame, creating a possible fatal shock. This is also the source of GFCI nuisance tripping because it provides an alternate path on the grounding conductor around the generator's GFCI.

Usually the generator's manufacturer will list in the specs whether the unit is bonded or not. Most of the time a portable generator is not bonded, but it never hurts to be sure before you use it. Many also include instructions on how to remove the bonding.

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You can backfeed through an existing outlet such as the dryer outlet which is easy but carries serious risks if not done properly and you still have to have a cord running from outside the house through a door or window. By powering the whole house electrical system you can run ceiling lights and fans you could not fun off of extension cords.

Please don't do this under any circumstances.

Buy one of these and have an electrician install for $250-500 depending on location in your house your panel is and where you want to run your generator. If it involves running line any significant distance through drywall will increase cost above the costs I listed.

It's safe, code compliant, and relatively inexpensive.

any/all of this is really easy. But setting up a parallel universe of a panel and plugs is totally unnecessary and why? Put in a transfer switch and be happy. They come in all sizes and shapes. A 6 or 12 circuit generac will take 30amps and let you transfer those circuits easily. at 50A I would just transfer the whole box and shut down what I can't run on that load. But moving plugs is really, really far down the list, like last.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Re...it-3006HDK/202213700

Transfer switch is the way to go. I hooked this one up myself and I’m no electrician. Simple as using wire nuts. I wish I would have got a 10 switch unit. But the 6 was enough to get the necessities.

How much would it generally cost, more or less, for a whole house generator that could power anything that would normally run on regular power, including electric water heater, a few heat pumps, frig, electric range, the whole nine yards.

Or is that type of thing usually not done ? Could that be done for 10k turnkey, including generator and electrician to wire it up ? Or is that more like 15 to 20K ? Just curious.

A 22kw Generac with transfer switch is currently $5147 plus tax delivered. Do you have natural gas or do you need to buy a BIG propane tank? I managed to get an 11kw completely installed for about $4600 because I had the tank and very reasonable labor costs. It depends somewhat on where you live but I could sure keep it well below $10,000 if I had to put a 22 kw in my place today. You would also have to calculate the draw on your list of items as 22kw may not be enough for everything you have. These things use a lot of fuel and are expensive to run. "A few heat pumps" could really use a lot of current.

We’ve had a portable for ten years now. When the power goes out (2-3 time a winter) I roll the thing out, chain it to pipes, start it and plug it into the house. When I go to the electrical panel and flip the transfer switch. That gives me all the appliances, WiFi and TV. Last summer, I discovered that the AC wouldn’t kick on. However, this was during a forest fire and we had to evacuate.
When I shopped for the generator my plan was to just run extension cords. One company went it to detail about how to do this. When I called again, it was entirely different. Cord were illegal etc.
Do it with a professional.

I took the Redneck Electrician route, something I am certain my insurance carrier would totally freak out over. Before I moved into the house I wanted a rear sliding door where a picture window was located. In prep for removing that window I had to eliminate a wiring circuit for a plug under that window and the refrigerator. When replacing that circuit for the refrigerator I decided to upgrade that circuit to a 20 amp circuit, plug and wiring.

So, I have a small home that can be fully powered with less than 14 amps of total draw. So, when power goes out I run a 20 amp extension cord from the detached garage into an old milk box by the back door. Then I run a 20 amp fabricated backfeed cord from the fridge to the milk box. This provides power to about 80% of the housed with only the back bedrooms being unpowered. Not up to code due to the unshielded plug on that backfeed cord but functionally perfectly safe and I only have one cord to fuss with. Note, cannot use the microwave due to that particular draw but I do have a gas stove so I just use the stove.

My Cummins has the ability to be set to auto start, I am not using it that way but it can be done. Since it is dual fuel it could sit unused for long periods of time and be ready when needed.

https://www.cummins.com/genera...g-portable-generator


https://mart.cummins.com/image...setfiles/0059501.pdf

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Originally posted by Skins2881:

quote:

You can backfeed through an existing outlet such as the dryer outlet which is easy but carries serious risks if not done properly and you still have to have a cord running from outside the house through a door or window. By powering the whole house electrical system you can run ceiling lights and fans you could not fun off of extension cords.

Please don't do this under any circumstances.

Buy one of these and have an electrician install for $250-500 depending on location in your house your panel is and where you want to run your generator. If it involves running line any significant distance through drywall will increase cost above the costs I listed.

It's safe, code compliant, and relatively inexpensive.

I went this rout also (Reliance brand transfer switch) years ago when we were renovating the kitchen and I had to pull a new home run line for the refrigerator and had the box open anyway.
It works great and after labeling the panel and making an “instruction guide” on the entire process and hanging it next to the panel my wife can start the generator and get the house up and running if I’m away.
The panel gives enough single and dual pole breakers for most essential circuits you’d need.