So, here is the situation: 2002 F150 Supercrew 4x4 with the 5.4 Triton, at just over 160,000 miles, has developed a "rod knock". I'm advised the engine is done and needs either replacing or rebuilding.

Now, this isn't a good time for this to happen. Never is, right?

The options:

A) Sell the truck as is. I don't know what I could get but it probably wouldn't be much. I'd have to replace it abd the only thing viable would be another relatively high mileage pickup, probably at least 10 years old. With 2 little ones and a third on the way the supervrew sized cab is very nice, making replacement a little harder. 2 door cabs won't do.

B) Have this engine rebuilt. I've talked to several mechanics and nobody suggests this as it would be more expensive than replacement.

C) Replace the engine with a local scrapyard engine. Best I can find is 87,000 mile engine that comes with a 6 month warranty for $1000.

D) Replace with a reman engine. Best deal is from Rock Auto. $2050 gets me a rebuilt long block that has a 3 year warranty.

Labor for C and D would be about $1100 from a well regarded and recommended mechanic.

Question:
What makes the most sense to you?

Choices:
A: sell it and replace with a high mileage vehicle
B: have the engine rebuilt
C: local scrapyard engine for $1000
D: reman engine for $2000

 

How attached to the truck are you? I would go the cheapest option to get it running right then sell or trade it in.

quote:

Originally posted by YooperSigs:
How attached to the truck are you? I would go the cheapest option to get it running right then sell or trade it in.

I'd go for the salvage engine as long as you can have your mechanic inspect it, compression check etc.

If money is tight, find a motor and swap it in.

C and D have a huge difference in labor time. About 10 hours. And you don't want to put a old water pump,plugs... on a new engine. Used engine.

quote:

Originally posted by Joe123:
C and D have a huge difference in labor time. About 10 hours. And you don't want to put a old water pump,plugs... on a new engine. Used engine.

I'll have to call the mechanic and talk about this. He didn't specify, he just said it'd be about $1100 for him to remove the current and put a new one in. I believe he was thinking a scrapped engine so I can see your point.

What else besides the plugs and water pump would you suggest replacing? Plugs and a pump are only about $50. Coils? Thermostat?

Get the re-manufactured engine. I have done this a few times, and I have never regretted it. OTH, I have known a few people who installed a used engine out of a wrecking yard, and they've been miserably disappointed.

quote:

Originally posted by synthplayer:
Get the re-manufactured engine. I have done this a few times, and I have never regretted it. OTH, I have known a few people who installed a used engine out of a wrecking yard, and they've been miserably disappointed.

And that's the choice I'm leaning towards. If I can't afford to get a suitable reliable replacement vehicle then spending a little extra on a better engine with a 3 year warranty makes sense. I'll just plan on keeping the truck for a long time. I do like it.

I'm taking it to a transmission place tomorrow and they'll check it out and render an opinion on the general shape of the tranny.

That being said, I'm open to be persuaded by the hive wisdom.

What will D cover in that warranty?

My friend is one of the leading installers for Jasper. You can't beat the warranty.

Jasper engines

If the truck is in good shape, and you want to keep it, I vote D.

quote:

Originally posted by charlie12:
My friend is one of the leading installers for Jasper. You can't beat the warranty.

Jasper engines

They provide quality rebuilt engines.

I voted for Option D, but with all due respect to RockAuto (which I patronize frequently), Jasper is the only place I'd go for a remanufactured engine.

Find a local Jasper dealer and see if you can't get as good or even a better total price w/ installation.

-Rob

Why couldn't a solid technician replace the rod main bearing that is knocking? Of course there a many answers why, but boy wouldn't it be nice. My 1947 Chevy can be repaired like this!

That engine has so many potential issues I would never take a chance on junkyard or technician solo rebuild. Spark plug sticking and head damage. Coil failures. Water pump. Cam chain tensioners and wear. Jasper will do it right in a factory with excellent quality.

Using the uppermost option, the reman engine, let's say $4000. What is the KBB on a 2002 model? Related to the KBB, what is the overall condition of the rest of the truck? Around here, a 2002 is likely to be seriously, if not fatally, rusted, but you shouldn't have that problem in California. Is it otherwise clean, reasonably free of dents, etc.? If in good shape I think the numbers would compare favorably. Four grand is what, six payments on a new truck?

quote:

Originally posted by 4MUL8R:
Why couldn't a solid technician replace the rod main bearing that is knocking? Of course there a many answers why, but boy wouldn't it be nice.

Those answers including, but not limited to, not addressing the underlying issue that caused the problem (usually low oil pressure, which calls into question the rest of the bearings), and where the metal worn off the bearing went. Did it just sink into the oil pan (where, because it will be off anyway, it can be cleaned out) or did it clog a passage somewhere? A bad rod bearing is usually accompanied by a scored crankshaft journal, which will wipe out the new bearing quickly. Of the bad options available, this one is the worst, like putting a Band-Aid on a spurting artery.

In your case I would go with the reman engine. Sounds like $3000 gets the whole job done. Only a grand more than the junkyard swap and well worth the peace of mind that comes with a 3 year warranty.

I did get a quote from a Jasper dealer/installed. Same warranty as the Rock Auto but overall price is $5500 vs $3100. A lot of that is the labor charge difference. The Jasper place is a large multi-bay place and the other guy is a more of a 1 man operation who comes highly recommended. However, I will see about getting another quote from a different dealer. Also on my list of things to find out: does the Rock Auto warranty cover labor? I don't know.

As far as the value/condition on the rest of the truck... it's fair to good. No reason to suspect any transmission issues. The rear differential seems to leak a little judging by the greasy pumpkin, but I think I can pull it abd put on a new gasket. There is a wirebcomiv out of the master cylinder, I think it has something to do with cruise control? Fluid leaks out there.

That's about it.

I had the motor rebuilt in my 2003 SCrew 4x4 three years ago when it only had 106k miles (head gasket issue without ever overheating). I supposedly used a reputable shop for $4200 OTD, but in retrospect it would have been MUCH better to simply get a Jasper motor and swap it out for $6500 OTD at a different location. I doubt I would have made so many repeated trips to the shop afterwards to fix issues relating to the rebuild and the warranty would have been much better as well. I let my frugal (read "cheap-ass") nature override what was clearly the better option on paper. Part of the analysis included a commitment to keeping the truck for another 10 years, and a Jasper motor would have given me a better chance at making that goal. The motor is running fine, but I doubt I'll make another 7 years based on other things that are now going wrong.

There are "generations" of the 5.4 motor that includes upgrades - none of which I can remember right now. (Heads? Valves? Somebody more knowledgeable please step in here.) The Jasper motors should come with those.

One of the things I recently had to replace is the upper manifold which had cracked and was leaking radiator fluid into the spark plug holes and coils. This is apparently a common problem with these motors. It took me 3 coils and a new mechanic to show me how the old manifold was used in the rebuild and was now cracked. The new manifold walls are much thicker which should preclude this issue. The point is that the Jasper should include this upgrade, while a motor rebuild most likely will not. If you decide to do the rebuild, ask about the cost of replacing the upper manifold to preclude this problem.

I will echo what everyone has said about Jasper engines. That would definitely be the route I went. Best in the business when it comes to reman engines.

quote:

Originally posted by thumperfbc:
I did get a quote from a Jasper dealer/installed. Same warranty as the Rock Auto but overall price is $5500 vs $3100. A lot of that is the labor charge difference. The Jasper place is a large multi-bay place and the other guy is a more of a 1 man operation who comes highly recommended. However, I will see about getting another quote from a different dealer.

It has been a while, so some of the details are a bit fuzzy, but when I needed a transmission for my 1995 Jimmy, I ordered one from Jasper and had it drop shipped to the independent shop that was doing all my vehicle service work at the time.

If memory serves, the labor charge was somewhere around $400 to $500 to do the installation. I had the vehicle for maybe ten years, and another 50,000 miles or so, no problems whatsoever with the transmission.