I came across the same problem at a buddies house. The only thing that worked was a thermal imager. Keep the house cold overnight and leave all the electrical items turned on for 15 min.

The studs will be blue, the wall will be green, and the electrical wiring will be red.

I felt like I was cheating somehow.

quote:

Originally posted by .38supersig:
I came across the same problem at a buddies house. The only thing that worked was a thermal imager. Keep the house cold overnight and leave all the electrical items turned on for 15 min.

The studs will be blue, the wall will be green, and the electrical wiring will be red.

I felt like I was cheating somehow.

There ya go.

Work smarter.

I need to get one of those.

quote:

Originally posted by Patrick-SP2022:
I have something similar to this.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Zi...nder-68240/300072345

I've used it a bunch of times and it has worked well.

The two stud finders I have are Zircons. I've found them unreliable.

quote:

Originally posted by ensigmatic:

quote:

Originally posted by Patrick-SP2022:
I have something similar to this.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Zi...nder-68240/300072345

I've used it a bunch of times and it has worked well.

Three two stud finders I have are Zircons. I've found them unreliable.

I rather knock on the wall, way more accurate.

quote:

Originally posted by Johnny 3eagles:
I used a strong magnet to find drywall screws in the wall.

That's what I'm using after the 2 electronic stud finders let me down.

quote:

Originally posted by trapper189:
I wouldn't use an arm type mount that lets you pull the TV away from the wall thos way. For one of those I'd find the studs. I have two 42" plasmas and they are heavy.

I am trying to mount the extendable adjustable arm type mount. TV and mount weigh 86 lbs.

quote:

Originally posted by Jamess1:
2) Ditch the plasma and get a newer much much lighter TV

Not happening. I love my Plasma.

quote:

Originally posted by smlsig:
If you can remove the baseboard you may be able to find the studs

Very involved. It's possible, but a last resort, and it may not reveal anything.

quote:

Originally posted by gjgalligan:
I wouldn't trust that at all. What if the wall is not a length that would have exact spacing for studs? I have seen walls where a stud might only be a few inches in on one end.
And when was it built? If old enough the studs maybe as much as 24" apart.

The house was built in '53. This room feels like a slightly later addition. Tried measuring with no success as well as drilling a few exploratory holes.

quote:

Originally posted by MattW:
Something else to consider is what's behind the pine wall? It may very well be on thin furring strips with a block wall behind it. The TV's that I've hung use about a 3" bolt, you may be punching through the concrete block if that is what's behind the pine.

Brick outside, other than that I'm not sure what's in the middle. I hung a TV in a different part of the house, through lath and plaster, and that was not easy finding studs either. What I found seemed like studs (vertical spacing made sense) except the 3" lag screws were 1/2" too long, and bottomed out against masonry, block or brick, I'm not sure. 2.5" studs? Whatever it is is very stable.

quote:

Originally posted by cparktd:

quote:

Originally posted by GaryBF:
I am guessing that the knotty pine wall is plenty strong and will hold the TV without finding the studs. You may be guilty of over-engineering.

This^^^^
Assuming this is what you have is the circa 1950 - 60's, 3/4 inch thick tongue and groves planks. The horizontal bits should be blocking between the studs.

Is this what you have?

Exactly what I have, can't verify it's 3/4" though. Given that I'm hanging a Plasma on a fully articulating arm, without experience, I'm not comfortable just relying on the paneling. The TV weighs 64 lbs. The mount weighs 22 lbs, so 86 lbs total.

quote:

Originally posted by ensigmatic:
Three two stud finders I have are Zircons. I've found them unreliable.

I have two electronic stud finders, one is a more expensive Zircon, an upgrade specifically purchased for this project that just doesn't work on the paneling.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: jigray3,

quote:

Originally posted by Shaql:
I highly doubt that they are horizontal studs. Most likely they put in blocking between the studs since the paneling is vertical.

The studs will be 16in on center. Try measuring 16.5" from the corner and that should be the center of the first stud. The center of every other stud should be 16" from there.

Good luck!

actually that would be 15.5 from the finished drywall studs are done on rough framing not finished.

quote:

Originally posted by jigray3:
....
The house was built in '53. This room feels like a slightly later addition. Tried measuring with no success as well as drilling a few exploratory holes.
......
Brick outside, other than that I'm not sure what's in the middle. I hung a TV in a different part of the house, through lath and plaster, and that was not easy finding studs either. What I found seemed like studs (vertical spacing made sense) except the 3" lag screws were 1/2" too long, and bottomed out against masonry, block or brick, I'm not sure. 2.5" studs? Whatever it is is very stable.

Given this information, you are very, very likely to have only furring strips under the planking, and that would really make sense with the nails that appear to be horizontal. With horizontal furring strips you can hide the nails under the tongue and grooves.

Here's a strange question. Go look outside at your bricks. If you have every seventh brick turned sideways and the wood is original, then it's very likely only furring strips secured with cut nails. Especially accurate with 50's construction.

quote:

Originally posted by Skins2881:
Here's a strange question. Go look outside at your bricks. If you have every seventh brick turned sideways and the wood is original, then it's very likely only furring strips secured with cut nails. Especially accurate with 50's construction.

If you mean every 7th brick in a single course is sideways, no.

If you mean every 7th course is all sideways bricks, then yes

quote:

Originally posted by jigray3:

quote:

Originally posted by Skins2881:
Here's a strange question. Go look outside at your bricks. If you have every seventh brick turned sideways and the wood is original, then it's very likely only furring strips secured with cut nails. Especially accurate with 50's construction.

If you mean every 7th brick in a single course is sideways, no.

If you mean every 7th course is all sideways bricks, then yes

Like this.

Just get some hollow wall anchors,or toggle bolts.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gr...Pack-51000/301970027

Supports up to 500 lbs

Or:

https://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER...id=1546664301&sr=1-9

And:

https://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER...1-23#customerReviews

quote:

Originally posted by Skins2881:
Like this.

Yes, except this is every 6th course sideways, mine is every 7th course sideways.

quote:

Yes, except this is every 6th course sideways, mine is every 7th course sideways.

First random pic I stole from interwebz, didn't count them. It means the brick is structural. And you have two courses of CMU tied into every seventh course of bricks. Insulation was not common when this building method was used, instead it relied on the air gaps in the CMU for insulation. Therefore they could make larger rooms with out using 2x4s and cut lumber costs.

Try your drilling test method horizontally and see if they actually run horizontal. Also use a bit that is at least 2.5" long. This will cover planking plus furring strip. You will feel a difference when it hits block vs furring strip.

If you do find that it is horizontal furring strips, there is an easy solution. Measure depth of planking + furring strips, then buy correct sized lag bolts for top set of holes on TV mount. Use four shorter lag bolts on top furring strip and use 2-4 #10 or #12 wood screws only in planking for bottom set of holes on the mount. Those screws are not nearly as important as the top holes.

quote:

Originally posted by Skins2881:

quote:

Yes, except this is every 6th course sideways, mine is every 7th course sideways.

First random pic I stole from interwebz, didn't count them. It means the brick is structural. And you have two courses of CMU tied into every seventh course of bricks. Insulation was not common when this building method was used, instead it relied on the air gaps in the CMU for insulation. Therefore they could make larger rooms with out using 2x4s and cut lumber costs.

Help me understand what you mean by CMU? Inside walls in the basement are block with the sideways header course every 2 courses of block. Is that what it looks like behind my paneling?

quote:

Try your drilling test method horizontally and see if they actually run horizontal. Also use a bit that is at least 2.5" long. This will cover planking plus furring strip. You will feel a difference when it hits block vs furring strip.

Which drilling test method? I think I'm familiar with the feel. When I mounted the TV upstairs, I seemed to go through about an inch of plaster lath, then about 1.5 inches of wood them masonry. Drill bit died a hero.

quote:

If you do find that it is horizontal furring strips, there is an easy solution. Measure depth of planking + furring strips, then buy correct sized lag bolts for top set of holes on TV mount. Use four shorter lag bolts on top furring strip and use 2-4 #10 or #12 wood screws only in planking for bottom set of holes on the mount. Those screws are not nearly as important as the top holes.

Problem is the mount is designed for mounting to horizontal studs. Adjusting mounting height meant moving the bracket up or down along the studs. IN this case, if I'm limited to the furring strip, I have no vertical adjustment. I can move it horizontally along the strip, but I'm stuck with the height of the furring strip unless I attach something like vertical 2x4"s between two courses of furring strips, 20" apart, then attach the TV mount to the 2x4's. Not sure the cosmetics on this approach are ideal.

CMU = Concrete Masonry Unit, or cinder block.

It is likely on the other side of paneling is just blocks with furring strips to mount the paneling. Very common in 50's.

You should be able to verify the wall depth and direction of furring strips or wood once you find a piece with drilling method. I'd use the magnet type stud finders to find where to drill test holes.

If the height of the two closest furring strips moves it too far away from your desired location then I think the 2x4 on the horizontal strips (if that is what it proves to be) is your only solution. You could stain and finish the 2x4 to match the paneling though and make it look professional.

Just be glad you aren't like me. My walls are made of steel and it took three burnt up drill bits just to run speaker, cable, and HDMI wiring. I had to drill holes in a thick steel stud to mount my TV and one half of the TV is only supported by heavy duty drywall anchors - think super large toggle bolt.

Stupid house was an experiment to see if houses could be built with steel instead of lumber. Creates all kinds of weird quarks with doing anything in my house. Kind of cool part is the entire top floor has zero structural walls and the hardwoods are installed under the walls. I could remove every wall if I wanted to.

Sounds pretty awesome. ^

I love large open spaces.

Just go buy a TV Stand/Entertainment Center.....
Problem Solved!

For anyone interested this is the best studfinder in the world.
Studfinder

No experience, but they have a great new wall checker for Android phones. Patiently waiting for an IOS version.

Actively advertised, but I have no clue if they really work. Good luck!!