I know there isn't much wiggle room on the price of a new vehicle but I don't want to low ball them or want a super high unreasonable trade in value. MSRP is $4K above Invoice. I have excellent credit and can get 3% APR from my bank.

How would you go about getting as close to Invoice as you can without coming across as an ass?

Many cars are selling at invoice or below these days. Offer $100. over and see what happens.

I’d go to Sam’s or Costco and use their car purchasing program.

Deal with the dealership’s internet salesperson via email. And email several dealerships and tell them you want their best price. Don’t deal with the lot lizards. Period.

quote:

How would you go about getting as close to Invoice as you can without coming across as an ass?

^^^^^^^^
Do your research and decide what vehicle you want and how much you are willing to pay. When I bought my last car the price was already agreed upon before I walked into the dealership. I communicated all via email. Get bids from several dealers in your area. Separate the trade from the deal to buy a new car. When I walked into the dealership I did it to test drive only. I do not play games with these people.

quote:

Originally posted by PowerSurge:
Deal with the dealership’s internet salesperson via email. And email several dealerships and tell them you want their best price. Don’t deal with the lot lizards. Period.

This^^^^

I would add:

Find the exact car you want in a dealers inventory online. Call and ask for internet sales. Confirm the car is available and ask for the best price in writing. Do this same thing with at least two additional dealers. Let them all know you are shopping and will drive a little to get the best deal.

Also, don't worry if they think you are an ass. Who cares, you want to buy a car as cheap as possible and they want to sell it for as much as possible. If you don't step on a toe or two you paid too much

Really depends on the vehicle and how many are sitting on the lot. More wiggle room if they have an excess inventory, especially at the end of the month. Do your research, see what car you want, see who quotes the best price.

Wiggle room can be large or small, it depends on which car you're buying. I bought a chevy truck last year and got $13k off of the sticker price. The exact same Toyota truck was $8k off. Some cars could be just 3k off. Like someone here said, call or email different dealers and tell them you're getting price quotes from multiple dealers and tell them that you will not enter a dealership until you get the lowest price. Dealers don't like this and some refuse to play at all but it's the most effective way to get the biggest discount.

I emailed a bunch of dealerships, the big ones that are high volume a few states away and local. I go the best offers from out of state and asked everyone local if they could beat it. One local place bit right before memorial day. Worked great for me.

The vehicle before hand had a good price via usaas car buying program and it was so low dealer showed me their books and said they wouldnt drop below it. Same with every other place. Worked out great.

I'd say if you have access to a car buying club or program check that out, see if anyone will beat it and if not then be happy. I'm quite pleased with both vehicles.

Don’t confuse the term invoice with the dealers cost.

Just bought a new truck today. Here’s what I did....

Check dealer prices, find who has best discount before the rebates/incentives all have.

Edmund “True Market Value” tells you the recent sales prices for your area

KBB for value of your trade.

Be reasonable in your expectations. You want a fair or better deal. They have to make a certain amount of profit on your new car and your trade. It is a business and the end of the day the point is to profit.



Be straight forward and honest.

Decide what you think is reasonable, walk in with knowledge of what is what. Make your offer, be willing to walk if they aren’t willing to get to what you think is reasonable/fair. Go to another dealer, try again. If you aren’t making any progress on your price/trade, reassess if you are being reasonable with what you’re asking.



I test drove at dealer “A” on Fri, looked at every area dealer’s website to see what inventory was available, went to dealer “B” this morning who had the color/options I wanted (dealer “A” didn’t).

I told the dealer at 1135 it was going to be his easiest sale this month or we would be done pretty quick. Made my pitch, told him he had two in inventory I was interested in. One was color I wanted, one was color my wife wanted which Dealer “A” had in stock with same exact equipment/options.

If he would match/beat dealer “A” price on the color I want and give me fair price on my trade we are done. If not, I’ll Go back to dealer “A”. Had to do one back and forth and we were there. Agreed to the numbers at 1215. Took longer to wait for paperwork to be filled in and my turn with the finance manager than it did to get to the sales price.

Got what I wanted for my trade, got the discount I wanted, price was well under Edmund TMV price.

For me, bottom line is I want to be fair and be treated fairly. Not looking to screw the dealer, don’t want him to screw me. I am sure someone has or will buy the same truck as me and pay $1000 less for it. To do that though is probably going to take a lot more time and effort. I’ll save the time, hassle, stress and pay a little more for it.

I’m happy knowing I got a better deal than most, I don’t have to get the best deal to be comfortable with the purchase.

Something no one has mentioned so far is that you're looking to buy at the end of the 2019 model year. Dealer year ends are usually September (into October), so if you don't want to wait for a 2020 model, I'd recommend you wait a couple weeks. October is usually a very good month to buy given dealers will be really motivated to unload all their 2019's as they'll be receiving 2020's, and additional rebates (dealer and other) should be available. The other advice above is good, so you should have a basis with which to deal for what you want.

quote:

Originally posted by Phantom229:
How would you go about getting as close to Invoice as you can without coming across as an ass?

Why care if the salesman thinks you’re an ass for being educated and negotiating for the best deal. He’ll likely be trying every trick in his tool bag.

If you live in an area with competing dealerships then I recommend a blind reverse auction and not setting foot in a dealership until deal is negotiated. If they try to change one term of the deal then walk.

No offense if there are car salesmen or car lot owners here, but that "high pressure" sales while you're sitting with the financing agent sucks.

30 mins of "are you sure you don't want the extended warranty?"...

DUDE, we said no 30 mins ago... finish up already.

Sorry for the thread drift.

James

quote:

Originally posted by Phantom229:
I know there isn't much wiggle room on the price of a new vehicle but I don't want to low ball them or want a super high unreasonable trade in value. MSRP is $4K above Invoice. I have excellent credit and can get 3% APR from my bank.

How would you go about getting as close to Invoice as you can without coming across as an ass?

You’re in. Washington. They have to show invoice if asked.
Offer $25 per day over invoice for each day. At thirty days, tell them that you’re doing them a favor by freeing up the real estate.

They will bite.

You shopping in Tacoma or Seattle?
What are you shopping for?
I have thirty some cars bought in the PNW. I might be able to help out.

quote:

Originally posted by Beancooker:

quote:

Originally posted by Phantom229:
I know there isn't much wiggle room on the price of a new vehicle but I don't want to low ball them or want a super high unreasonable trade in value. MSRP is $4K above Invoice. I have excellent credit and can get 3% APR from my bank.

How would you go about getting as close to Invoice as you can without coming across as an ass?

You’re in. Washington. They have to show invoice if asked.
Offer $25 per day over invoice for each day. At thirty days, tell them that you’re doing them a favor by freeing up the real estate.

They will bite.

You shopping in Tacoma or Seattle?
What are you shopping for?
I have thirty some cars bought in the PNW. I might be able to help out.

I’m kinda in between Seattle and Tacoma, I can go either way. I’m looking at the 2020 Toyota 4Runner TRD Off Road Premium in Super White.

quote:

Originally posted by 220-9er:
Don’t confuse the term invoice with the dealers cost.

Washington State has weird laws on this. In Wa, invoice is dealer cost and it shows their holdback fees.

quote:

Originally posted by Phantom229:

quote:

Originally posted by Beancooker:

quote:

Originally posted by Phantom229:
I know there isn't much wiggle room on the price of a new vehicle but I don't want to low ball them or want a super high unreasonable trade in value. MSRP is $4K above Invoice. I have excellent credit and can get 3% APR from my bank.

How would you go about getting as close to Invoice as you can without coming across as an ass?

You’re in. Washington. They have to show invoice if asked.
Offer $25 per day over invoice for each day. At thirty days, tell them that you’re doing them a favor by freeing up the real estate.

They will bite.

You shopping in Tacoma or Seattle?
What are you shopping for?
I have thirty some cars bought in the PNW. I might be able to help out.

I’m kinda in between Seattle and Tacoma, I can go either way. I’m looking at the 2020 Toyota 4Runner TRD Off Road Premium in Super White.

If they have one at Tacoma Toyota, go talk to Lewie. He’s a colossal douche canoe. He’s also the Sales Manager. He will do you right if you ask to speak with him and are a hard ass about negotiations.
He used to be the Sales Manager at Tacoma Mercedes. Bought a Benz from him. He was transferred to Larson Toyota. Traded in the Benz he sold me, on an FJ.

Best of luck brother.

quote:

Originally posted by Phantom229: I’m kinda in between Seattle and Tacoma, I can go either way. I’m looking at the 2020 Toyota 4Runner TRD Off Road Premium in Super White.

Go to Doxon Toyota in Auburn. Ask for Costco pricing. I did that last Feb and got my new 2019 4-Runner for invoice. Couldn't have been easier.

quote:

Originally posted by James in Denver:
No offense if there are car salesmen or car lot owners here, but that "high pressure" sales while you're sitting with the financing agent sucks.

30 mins of "are you sure you don't want the extended warranty?"...

DUDE, we said no 30 mins ago... finish up already.

Sorry for the thread drift.

James

Did this 6 months ago...

He asked, and we said no.

He asked again, and we said no again.

He tried to ask again, and I said literally "I said no twice, If you ask again, I'm going to walk out that door and you can keep the car. On the way out feel free to call the manager over and I'll tell him to bend over and I'll drive the car right where he can keep it."

He said "Well I'm allowed to work on the price to make you buy it"

I said, then you can make the price of the car cheaper and I wont buy it. Go talk to the manager if you have wiggle room, I dont want the warrenty and if you can't make the car price cheaper, I'm leaving."

They came down 200 bucks....

I still didn't buy the bullshit.