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| prime!! then run a light down the wall to see where you may need to sand the joints again reprime your final topcoat will look better and will get better coverage If your using a higher sheen satin or semi gloss you will see the tape joints every 4 ft if not.
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| Posts: 6321 | Location: New Orleans...outside the levees, fishing in the Rigolets | Registered: October 11, 2009 |
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| quote: Originally posted by ubelongoutside: A painter friend once told me to definitely "prime" but you don't need actual primer on new drywall. He used flat white ceiling paint and said it gave him the best results and was cheaper than the primer. He said he only used true primer when doing a drastic color change or covering water, smoke, or other discoloration.
Why not spend a few bucks more to put primer on a room you just completely dry walled and have a better finish than saving a couple of bucks by using flat ceiling paint? |
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| quote: Originally posted by sigcrazy7: Yes, you absolutely need primer on raw drywall. Use a polyvinyl acetate primer. The stuff is cheap, like $8 a gallon, and forms the bonding layer as well as sealing the board. Without the primer, the taped seams will show through more readily. Some people think they’re getting by with using multiple coats of topcoat, since PVA is a base ingredient in all latex paints, but that is simply wasting money. There are ¡¡NO!! professional painters that would apply topcoat to raw wallboard.
BTW, 2 in 1 paints are crap. They increase the PVA content while reducing the solids. They are neither a good primer nor a good topcoat.
Painted professionally for almost 20 years. Quality drywall work (hanging, taping, finishing and especially sanding) + a top of the line flat paint = an excellent finish. Never have primed, never will unless it's for semi-gloss. Never had a single issue. Don't care what the paint can or the guy at Homie-D says. |
| Posts: 456 | Location: Virginia | Registered: October 10, 2012 |
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