I enjoyed the recent discussion on oil change frequency for older cars. It got me thinking about a related subject I would like to hear the group's collective wisdom on.

I have been visiting the "Bob Is The Oil Guy" website and watching YouTube videos on "Best Synthetic Oil" and "Best Oil Filters" and have noticed the following advice is regularly given:
"Use whatever brand-name synthetic oil is on sale at WalMart and a good filter"
"Buy the cheapest synthetic oil and the most expensive filter"

For years I've been a Mobil1 or Castrol guy with filters like Mobil1, Puralator Pure One, NAPA Gold, etc. But for my most recent oil changes, I've used Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic and a Mobil1 Filter (Jeep) or an OEM Toyota Filter (Tacoma). In the proper viscosities respectively, of course.

I do not do any severe conditions driving (other than having to drive in Michigan winters and summers). I am wondering if I should "downgrade" my oil to Costco's Kirkland Brand or even WalMart's Super Tech Brand. And possibly upgrade my oil filters.

Thoughtful answers and personal experiences will be appreciated.

Project Farm did a series of tests to determine which synthetic oil was best. Most were really very good. Walmart SuperTech Synthetic beat Mobil 1 in his testing. I’ve used it for years with no oil-related engine issues. I change my oil at around 5k mile intervals.

Link to the championship round:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWuKvnCq1js

quote:

Walmart SuperTech Synthetic

I've also used the Walmart brand in my 94 Silverado, 5.7 TBI, but I also supplement with Restore (also from Walmart) every oil change. Currently at 452,000 miles with no engine oil related issues. Wish I could say the same for transmissions.

I did oil changes on my 2013 Tacoma which I gave to my son up until it was totaled last January. I wanted my son to know how to change his own oil. I started changing the oil on my daughter’s jeep and my wife’s explorer last year and finally started on my BMW a month ago. I have the time, and I enjoy doing it and I’m saving a boat load of money. I am using Mobil 1 filters and Mobil 1 oil in the proper viscosities with everything except my BMW which I use OEM. That takes 10 liters and has a special filter and just the kit to do the change is over $190. That oil change usually comes in close to $450 dollars at the dealer. My Ram 5.7L takes 7 quarts, my Explorer takes 6 quarts, and my Jeep Compass takes 5.5 quarts. I’m sure that using Costco or Walmart brand oil would be cheaper and likely no real noticeable difference. I will say though, I try to buy from Walmart when they run sales on Mobil 1 and almost always have enough oil on hand to do at least one oil change per vehicle. The sale prices makes the savings somewhat negligible so I just stick with what I know.

I'm pretty experienced in automotive areas but not any sort of expert in lubricant chemistry.
In other words, I can't talk specifics about why Mobil 1 might be better in a particular area than another brand.
That said, my take on it is that all major brands meeting your cars specifications are likely just fine as long as you change it per guidelines.
I use Mobil 1 and Wix oil filters (I think they actually make a number of other name brands like Mobil 1 and NAPA with their own packaging) because there's nowhere enough pricing spread to take any chance.

Lubricants and filters are a critical part of keeping your cars engine in good shape and also one of the most simple and inexpensive aspects of maintenance.

To put this in firearms terminology, using lesser stuff is like buying a Sig or other quality firearm for your carry piece and then buying flea market reloads for you self defense ammo. Can it work? sure. Will it? Who knows.

Life's too short. Go to Walmart and buy a jug of Mobil 1 (5 Qts. for $25-30 where I live) in the proper viscosity along with a quality filter, there or elsewhere and sleep well at night.

As to the original question mentioning "cheap oil". A good filter isn't going to make any oil a good lubricant if it isn't already. It would just collect the metal shavings better.
Also, Costco oil may be ok but it's around the same price of Mobil one where I live.

If you regularly change oil around 5-6k miles Kirklands and Super Tech will be as good as any premium oil. Even the cheapest conventional non synthetic oils are much better than they were years ago. Again, if you change regularly and don't tow or fall under a severe driving schedule those oils will keep an engine running just as long as premium synthetics.
Back when my budget was much tighter I had a dodge truck that I used the cheapest oil and filters money would buy on. I sold it with over 200k miles on the engine. All it needed was some kind of oil at a regular interval.

For shits-n-giggles figured I'd googlize it.

Who manufactures Kirkland motor oil?
Kirkland Signature 5-Quart 0W20 & 5W30 Full Synthetic Motor ...

Warren distribution

Warren distribution makes Kirkland motor oil, a company founded by James Schlott in 1992 and is based in North America. They are one of the giant blenders of oils for a private label. Warren distribution makes it for Costco stores around the world and some other well-known brands of engine oil.

If you are a chemical superfreak click and enjoy the analysis

link

I've long been a Mobil1 oil & filter user.
The Midget gets Valvoline VR1 20w50 [for the zinc, as recommended by the bulk of the MG forum] & a Mobil1 filter.

M1 Filters are made by Purolator, which is a good company, many of the filters that are OEM are made by WIX, Harley Branded filters are WIX.

Link

Used Mobil One forever in all my cars except the BMW E21 which I used Redline.

I imagine all are pretty good and not worth the effort to save a few cents.

With modern oil and a quality filter, 5,000 mile oil changes are pretty standard for older cars. The 3,000 mile change was because everyone used dino oil. Personally, I run Castrol Syntec or Pennzoil Platinum, whichever is cheaper and Purolator Pure One filters. For my 2012 Acura TSX, I change the oil when the minder tells me to. For my 3000GT VR-4, I run Rotella T6 15W-40 for normal driving and VR1 20W50 on track.

I use SuperTech and the Fram Gold filter.

quote:

For years I've been a Mobil1 or Castrol guy with filters like Mobil 1, Puralator Pure One, NAPA Gold, etc. But for my most recent oil changes, I've used Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic and a Mobil1 Filter (Jeep) or an OEM Toyota Filter (Tacoma). In the proper viscosities respectively, of course.

Same here.
The Puralator Boss is really a good filter.
I either use that or the Mobil 1 depending on the sale price.
I think I prefer the Castrol Synthetic with the high-mileage additives but I don't have any problems with the other full synthetics.
Oil gets changed between 5-6K miles.

I'm going to follow advice here and try the Liqui Moly from FCP Euro next time...

https://www.fcpeuro.com/produc...r-liqui-moly-lm20228

I thought it went without saying that we're talking about synthetic oil, in the appropriate viscosity, and that meets API and ILSAC requirements/ratings.

If so, and you have any significant amount of metal shavings in your oil, you have serious problems that aren't oil-related.

Well, this is a gentlemanly oil/filter thread. Usually there’s rock throwing’ and name calling by now. I like Rotella T6 5w-30 multi vehicle and oem Yota filters in my Tundra.

There are a ton of auto manufacturer specific specifications these days. Be sure your oil is identified as meeting the correct spec for your vehicle.

Even better, look for an oil that is certified to that spec.

If you change your oil often, my opinion is any reputable brand of fully synthetic meeting your car's specification is good enough.

I avoid long duration oil changes. I try to do an annual change or every 6000 miles, whichever comes first. We drive the car about 7500 miles per year on average (and I do miles on the motorcycle).

Extended interval oils have different formulations, and imho are not as good if you are doing shorter interval changes, e.g. 6000 miles.

It seems that oil filter brands and specific models do change over time. There are many YouTube videos of various filters being cut open. There are some big differences in materials in important internal parts, like the anti-drain valve and how the internal filter material is glued.

The long-interval filters may be less able to grab small particles, because they need to last longer before being saturated with dirt.

I grew up using standard oil and fram filters. Don't recall ever having an issue.

Now I use full synthetic in my vehicles and try to use OEM Filters. If I can't get one OEM then I would go with Fram or Puralator filters.

Thanks to our friend Chowser I am of the get one of the most expensive oils available for free (aside from $15 shipping) and use an OEM filter.

I only use OEM or Puralator filters. Used Amsoil oil for a very long time and was happy. Found LiquiMoly Moligen oil and was even more happy, then Chowser introduced me to getting that oil for free.
Haven’t paid for oil in over 2 years now.

Mine was engineered with the intended use of Mobil 1.

I can't really think of any reason to use something else.