I have an LED style shop light. Like an old fluorescent, but brand new and LED. 57 Watts, 120v. It's got 18AWG stranded wires. The wire feeding it will be 14 AWG solid. I was going to use wire nuts, but I know standed and wire nuts aren't an ideal combo. Guy at HD recommended these. They're really "tap" splices, but they do seem an interesting way to connect dissimilar types of wire.

Thoughts? Gauge lines up well. I test connected and it seemed tight. Should only be about a 1/2 amp. I'm not daisy chaining anything. Will go into a 4x4 metal box with a lid that I've placed for the connection.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyc...-53440-7-5/202204287

Just use wirenuts. there is no problem with doing solid to stranded, and certainly no problem using with LED as they draw next to nothing. I do not trust anything like what you linked at all, I will take a well made wirenut connection above snap together connections all day long.

Western Union Splice, look it up. There isn't anything more durable than a properly soldered Western Union Splice.

Never had any problems using wire nuts with stranded and solid wires.

Quality wire nut, and done.

I would probably use wire nuts as well, however, you could solder the connection first and then screw on the wire nut as a cover.

What about the "push in" connectors? I wired my daughters newly finished basement and the LED can light units I used came with these pre-installed. I thought about cutting them off and using wire nuts, but decided if Home Depot sells them they must be OK. Sure were easy to use! No problem so far.

quote:

Originally posted by Scooter123:
Western Union Splice, look it up. There isn't anything more durable than a properly soldered Western Union Splice.

I think that must be what is all through my house. I keep finding wires that seem to be soldered and taped.

quote:

Originally posted by Scooter123:
Western Union Splice, look it up. There isn't anything more durable than a properly soldered Western Union Splice.

Western Union Splice! That brings back memories. Every single one of those I ever did never lasted more than 30 minutes.
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*Used for connecting electrically-fired demolition systems. More exciting while splicing under direct enemy fire.

Not a chance, no UL listing, wire nuts

Use wire nuts the way God intended. Lighting fixtures always have stranded wire that you connect to the solid feed. wire nuts work every time.

Wire nuts it is. Thanks guys!

I hate using tap splices on 12v DC circuits, there's no way I'd use them for anything "bigger".

I tried to use some of the splices you linked to and they can be a PITA to use. I wasted more than I used.

I agree, sometimes those things work and sometimes they are a problem... must have been designed and sold for folks that don't know how to twist two wired together.

Ideal wire nuts.

https://www.grainger.com/produ...i55:20170603220340:s

quote:

Originally posted by Excam_Man:
Ideal wire nuts.

https://www.grainger.com/produ...i55:20170603220340:s

Smart man right there ^^^

Exact ones I use unless I need larger ones (Big Blues or Red TwisterPro) or smaller ones (little blues).

you should use these

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ide...k-30-1302S/202935637

quote:

Originally posted by eltonr:
you should use these

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ide...k-30-1302S/202935637

That would be a code violation. Can't use those.

quote:

Min. 2 #18 Stranded Tin-Bonded per side

Unless he forgot to mention the wiring was Tin bonded/plated. Can not use regular stranded wiring in those since the manufactures instructions say not to.

quote:

Originally posted by Skins2881:

quote:

Originally posted by eltonr:
you should use these

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ide...k-30-1302S/202935637

That would be a code violation. Can't use those.

quote:

Min. 2 #18 Stranded Tin-Bonded per side

Unless he forgot to mention the wiring was Tin bonded/plated. Can not use regular stranded wiring in those since the manufactures instructions say not to.

these are specifically made to connect ballast wring to house wiring, while providing a safe disconnect inside the fixture/ballast area.

what am I missing in this application that make this "illegal"