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Toyota Tundra oil, synthetic or conventional. Login/Join 
His diet consists of black
coffee, and sarcasm.
Picture of egregore
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There is probably a page in the owner's manual showing different oil viscosities for various temperature ranges, or stamped on the oil cap. 5W20 and 5W30 can be had in synthetic blend. But if it does in fact call for 0W20, which can only be made in full synthetic, that's what you should use. Do not use anything heavier than specified, nor additives that thicken the oil. Your four variable valve timing sprockets won't like it.
 
Posts: 28953 | Location: Johnson City, TN | Registered: April 28, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Inject yourself!
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I've had my 2010 since new and it's almost always had Mobil 1 0-20 synthetic in it. If I have the dealer do it, they use Toyota 0-20. For my driving now, it works out to a once a year change out, usually it was a spring and fall change. Usually somewhere between 5k and 7k mile oil changes.

Mobil 1 can be had in 5qt jugs at Walmart for about $25. Three of those will get you 2 full changes with a little left over, if you don't mind having a partial on the shelf. I use 7 qts or a little more to get it full. I have the oil cooler. Single quarts are expensive, like $7 or $8.




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Posts: 8393 | Location: West | Registered: November 26, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
My other Sig
is a Steyr.
Picture of .38supersig
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Either way, consider the high-mileage blend. It is formulated with additives (zinc?) to help with the valvetrain and condition the seals.

I'd go with whatever 4MUL8R says.



 
Posts: 9474 | Location: Somewhere looking for ammo that nobody has at a place I haven't been to for a pistol I couldn't live without... | Registered: December 02, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of PowerSurge
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quote:
Originally posted by .38supersig:
Either way, consider the high-mileage blend. It is formulated with additives (zinc?) to help with the valvetrain and condition the seals.

I'd go with whatever 4MUL8R says.

Read my earlier post. Semi-syn blends are a rip off. Better off just buying a good conventional or synthetic.


———————————————
The fool hath said in his heart, There is no God. Psalm 14:1
 
Posts: 4039 | Location: Northeast Georgia | Registered: November 18, 2017Reply With QuoteReport This Post
My other Sig
is a Steyr.
Picture of .38supersig
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Guessing since you are an expert in the subject matter, you would have known that high milage blends are available in full synthetic.



 
Posts: 9474 | Location: Somewhere looking for ammo that nobody has at a place I haven't been to for a pistol I couldn't live without... | Registered: December 02, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Too clever by half
Picture of jigray3
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quote:
Originally posted by Riley:
I've had my 2010 since new and it's almost always had Mobil 1 0-20 synthetic in it. If I have the dealer do it, they use Toyota 0-20. For my driving now, it works out to a once a year change out, usually it was a spring and fall change. Usually somewhere between 5k and 7k mile oil changes.

Mobil 1 can be had in 5qt jugs at Walmart for about $25. Three of those will get you 2 full changes with a little left over, if you don't mind having a partial on the shelf. I use 7 qts or a little more to get it full. I have the oil cooler. Single quarts are expensive, like $7 or $8.


My local Toyota dealer offers complete 0W-20 oil change for $50. They even do it while I wait, usually about 30-45 minutes. Makes no sense to do it myself at that price. Of course, they try to up sell when I visit. I stick to the 10K service intervals. 215K miles on my 2013 Tundra 5.7L currently, sold my 2006 Tundra 4.0L V6 2 years ago with 344K.




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Posts: 10369 | Location: Richmond, VA | Registered: December 11, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of PowerSurge
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quote:
Originally posted by .38supersig:
Guessing since you are an expert in the subject matter, you would have known that high milage blends are available in full synthetic.

Actually, I misread your post. I thought you were talking about a semi-syn blend, sorry.


———————————————
The fool hath said in his heart, There is no God. Psalm 14:1
 
Posts: 4039 | Location: Northeast Georgia | Registered: November 18, 2017Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of 19tass
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quote:
Originally posted by Ozarkwoods:
I would use full synthetic.


I agree.
 
Posts: 1204 | Location: Southern Illinois | Registered: November 17, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
7.62mm Crusader
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quote:
Originally posted by Black92LX:
Does a conventional 0w-20 even exist? I was under the impression there is no such thing.

Were they using 5w-20? My Toyota’s said one could use 5w-20 but make sure to use the 0w-20 on the next change.

Both Toyota’s we had got 0w-20 Mobil 1 every 5k miles with the Toyota cartridge filter replacement.

I do 5k mile oil changes if it calls for a synthetic that is what it gets.
If not I use Ford Motorcraft synthetic blend in the proper weight. Motorcraft, ACDelco, or Puralator Gold Filter.

I have one more free oil change for the Suburban that calls for 0w-20. Once that is out I will likely use Shell Rotella Full Synthetic.
If I had a Tundra that would likely be the oil of choice as well.
Why Rotella Black92? Just curious because I've not seen any reviews or tech oppinions on the oil. I know they make a great product but just curious of your reasoning. It actually costs more than Mobile1.
 
Posts: 18000 | Location: The Bluegrass State! | Registered: December 23, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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[/QUOTE]

My local Toyota dealer offers complete 0W-20 oil change for $50. They even do it while I wait, usually about 30-45 minutes. Makes no sense to do it myself at that price. Of course, they try to up sell when I visit. I stick to the 10K service intervals. 215K miles on my 2013 Tundra 5.7L currently, sold my 2006 Tundra 4.0L V6 2 years ago with 344K.[/QUOTE]

I think the last trip to the dealer was $80+ and I had to use a pipe wrench to get the filter housing off. But for $50, I’d have them do it and they can fight it.




Do not send me to a heaven where there are no dogs.
Step Up or Stand Aside: Support the Troops !
Expectations are premeditated disappointments.
 
Posts: 8393 | Location: West | Registered: November 26, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of bigdeal
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quote:
Originally posted by egregore:
But if it does in fact call for 0W20, which can only be made in full synthetic, that's what you should use. Do not use anything heavier than specified, nor additives that thicken the oil. Your four variable valve timing sprockets won't like it.
Interesting tidbit on that topic. We owned a Honda Pilot that 'required' 0w20 synthetic oil. That very same Honda Pilot model, sold in Australia (another very hot climate), 'required' 5w30 synthetic. Wanna tell me Honda manufactures different engines for these vehicles to run different weight oils? This oil weight thing is very subjective based on the country and its regulatory laws. That said would I run 20w 50 in the Pilot? Of course not. But since 5w30 is far easier to source than 0w20, and the Pilot has run terrific for almost 100k miles at this point, it will continue to use 5w30.


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Posts: 33845 | Location: Orlando, FL | Registered: April 30, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
I have not yet begun
to procrastinate
posted Hide Post
I just changed my oil in my 2017 Tundra. (5.7)
Mobil 1 full synthetic, new Toyota filter and I’m going to be good for the next 10,000.
Regular ol’ Mobil 1 kept my ‘03 running just fine for 197k before I sold it to buy this one.

I DON’T CARE IF REGULAR MOBIL 1 HAS MICROSCOPIC DIFFERENCES THAN “TOYOTA” BRANDED OIL!
At 10k oil changes, it won’t make a damn bit of difference. It will run like a top until all the plastic dies. Smile
88,000 miles on a Toyota does NOT qualify for “high mileage” IMHO.
Wait for 200k to even consider it.
quote:
But since 5w30 is far easier to source than 0w20, and the Pilot has run terrific for almost 100k miles at this point, it will continue to use 5w30.

CAFE mileage standards many believe is the reason for the water thin oil. Don’t know, but it sounds as reasonable as any other explanation.


--------
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Posts: 3909 | Location: Central AZ | Registered: October 26, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Black92LX
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by David Lee:
quote:
Originally posted by Black92LX:
Does a conventional 0w-20 even exist? I was under the impression there is no such thing.

Were they using 5w-20? My Toyota’s said one could use 5w-20 but make sure to use the 0w-20 on the next change.

Both Toyota’s we had got 0w-20 Mobil 1 every 5k miles with the Toyota cartridge filter replacement.

I do 5k mile oil changes if it calls for a synthetic that is what it gets.
If not I use Ford Motorcraft synthetic blend in the proper weight. Motorcraft, ACDelco, or Puralator Gold Filter.

I have one more free oil change for the Suburban that calls for 0w-20. Once that is out I will likely use Shell Rotella Full Synthetic.
If I had a Tundra that would likely be the oil of choice as well.
Why Rotella Black92? Just curious because I've not seen any reviews or tech oppinions on the oil. I know they make a great product but just curious of your reasoning. It actually costs more than Mobile1.


Pedigree and proven protection especially when it comes to trucks.
Mobil 1 is a solid choice as well. Rotella was $18.98 last time rolled through wally world and Mobil 1 was $23.98 around here. Not a huge difference but the savings is the cost of an oil filter.


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Posts: 25792 | Registered: September 06, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Our ability to travel is now very limited. Motels and Restaurants are shut down. This is a delima. Fuel prices are dropping. The petroleum supplies are growing daily. My SUV and passenger car are setting idle. We are driving our short range Jeep Wrangler these days. Keeping the oil changed is very important during this time of challenges.
 
Posts: 54 | Registered: March 14, 2020Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Lawyers, Guns
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Picture of chellim1
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quote:
the Tundra is set up to use the 0-20 full synthetic oil.


quote:
Originally posted by sigcrazy7:
Except for new engine break-in, synthetic oil is superior anyway you measure it. Full synthetic at a 7500 interval would be fine, with a quality filter like a Wix/Napa gold.

+1 synthetic.

quote:
Toyota’s oil also has a lot more molybdenum (antiwear additive) in it than Mobil 1.


To me, the correct oil weight is more important than the brand. I'm sure Toyota’s branded oil and Mobil 1 are both good choices.



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Posts: 24777 | Location: St. Louis, MO | Registered: April 03, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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