I know this topic has been discussed many times before.

But here is my question. Picked up a used 2010 Tundra with the 5.7L v8. In th vehicle is a letter from Toyota that this is the first model year that the Tundra is set up to use the 0-20 full synthetic oil. The last oil change had a dex synthetic blend used. When the dealer checked history on the vehicle they said it has be serviced regularly with conventional oil.

Question is, does it matter. Should I go with synthetic now. Rig has 88k on it. The paperwork says synthetic and 10k change intervals. I am thinking do synthetic going forward at 7.5k intervals. Does it matter?

Thanks all.

Im in the stay with what's recommended category. Dealer has probably been charging for full synthetic. interval is preference

Except for new engine break-in, synthetic oil is superior anyway you measure it. Full synthetic at a 7500 interval would be fine, with a quality filter like a Wix/Napa gold.

Doesn't matter, read the manual. Changing back and forth won't hurt it.

I would go with full synthetic. I run it in an even older vehicular and change my oil between 8-10k.

It matters if you go with longer oil change intervals. I run Toyota 0w-20 with the Toyota filter in mine and change it every 7k miles. If I were towing a lot more than I do I’d run 5w-30.

The price difference between conventional and synthetic anymore is nil to me and synthetic resists sludge buildup a lot better. Even a synthetic like Kirkland brand at Costco is a good oil and a much better choice than conventional oil.

Toyota’s synthetic is engineered by Mobil specifically for your Tundra and to provide a 10k service interval. Mobil’s own 0W-20 is not the same. I trust the engineering, though the initial idea of any 0W-20 rubbed me wrong, and I find it promotes a little more valve clatter, particularly in the FJs 4.0 V6.

Ok guys, thank you. Synthetic it is.

Synthetic.

quote:

Originally posted by jigray3:
Toyota’s synthetic is engineered by Mobil specifically for your Tundra and to provide a 10k service interval. Mobil’s own 0W-20 is not the same. I trust the engineering, though the initial idea of any 0W-20 rubbed me wrong, and I find it promotes a little more valve clatter, particularly in the FJs 4.0 V6.

Toyota’s oil also has a lot more molybdenum (antiwear additive) in it than Mobil 1. It’s made to Toyota’s specs by Exxon-Mobil. I run it in other non-Toyota vehicles also.

Does a conventional 0w-20 even exist? I was under the impression there is no such thing.

Were they using 5w-20? My Toyota’s said one could use 5w-20 but make sure to use the 0w-20 on the next change.

Both Toyota’s we had got 0w-20 Mobil 1 every 5k miles with the Toyota cartridge filter replacement.

I do 5k mile oil changes if it calls for a synthetic that is what it gets.
If not I use Ford Motorcraft synthetic blend in the proper weight. Motorcraft, ACDelco, or Puralator Gold Filter.

I have one more free oil change for the Suburban that calls for 0w-20. Once that is out I will likely use Shell Rotella Full Synthetic.
If I had a Tundra that would likely be the oil of choice as well.

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:
Does a conventional 0w-20 even exist? I was under the impression there is no such thing.

Were they using 5w-20? My Toyota’s said one could use 5w-20 but make sure to use the 0w-20 on the next change.

Both Toyota’s we had got 0w-20 Mobil 1 every 5k miles with the Toyota cartridge filter replacement.

I do 5k mile oil changes if it calls for a synthetic that is what it gets.
If not I use Ford Motorcraft synthetic blend in the proper weight. Motorcraft, ACDelco, or Puralator Gold Filter.

Just a tip, synthetic blends usually have less than 20% synthetic oil. For the price it’s better to just go ahead and move up to a full synthetic. And yes, I don’t know of any conventional 0w-20 oils.

It's not a Toyota, but I had a 2007 Pathfinder that I bought in 2010 with 45k on it. I had no idea what the prior service history was, although I did buy the car from a Nissan dealer. I switched over immediately to a full synthetic and ran it to 320k on it with a 7,500-10k mileage interval for changes. Mostly highway miles, but it was my only vehicle so it was used for all kinds of driving.

I bought a 2016 4Runner that is my current vehicle, but just parked the Pathfinder because it needed way too much in terms of front suspension and cat converters to pass PA inspection when it was due. The motor was still running like a sewing machine. No tapping, no oil leaks, but it was consuming about a quart for every 1500 miles of driving, which was just becoming noticeable.

In my mind, the full synthetic oil did a better job of keeping things suspended until it was changed, so no sludge buildup and less heat to break down seals and gaskets.

I would use full synthetic.

I've owned four Tundras, still own the last two, and know the person who bought the first one from me.

First, 0W-20 is primarily synthetic regardless of the brand, because the requirements cannot be fully met without a synthetic base oil. I think I am aware of one brand of 0W-20 that is a synthetic blend, but I do not even know if it still exists due to the new standards that are out now, and the big new one next year.

I've performed oil analysis on all four of my Tundras. The last three all had the 5.7L V8, the first one had the venerable 4.7L. Incidentally, the first Tundra, a 2006, is still going strong at 315,000 miles. He just had his first significant repair, the air pump went out.

Anyway, I have used either Mobil 1 or Amsoil in these vehicles. I change oil every one year or 10,000 miles, whichever comes first. In all cases, analysis results at that mark indicate the oil could exceed one year/10K miles with no problem, but I change it anyway to comply with warranty requirements.

The 4.7 and 5.7 are about as easy on oil as any vehicles I have ever had. Plus, the 5.7s now have a sump size of about 8.5 quarts, quite large. I think the 2010 sumps were slightly smaller, but not by much.

If you want no-fuss, easy to follow advice, just pick a name brand of oil, like Mobil 1, change it by the manual, and you will do great.

It DOES matter. If the manual specifies a full synthetic only, there is a reason Toyota specified it (at a higher cost to the consumer). I would only use what Toyota specifies for that vehicle.

GM specified only Mobil 1 full synthetic to be used starting with the LT-1 corvette in 1992, because oil temperatures ran too high with conventional oil and the conventional oil was sacrificed from the high oil temps and losing it's lubricating properties and the test engines were seeing ultra high wear. They couldn't find a good area or way to put a big oil cooler (could've been a cost issue too), and they found just by switching to synthetic oil, oil temps dropped 30-40F and they didn't need to use a cooler, but using synthetic in that particular motor is a must.

If you change your own go synthetic for sure, it's cheap. Mobil 1 runs rebates twice a year and I buy a jug or two at Walmart for around 23 bucks, then get a 10 dollar rebate for each.

If its had a consistent diet of conventional oil for 88k miles, there's little point in switching to synthetic now. Just keep to the recommended oil change intervals and enjoy your truck.

quote:

Originally posted by PowerSurge:

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:
Does a conventional 0w-20 even exist? I was under the impression there is no such thing.

Were they using 5w-20? My Toyota’s said one could use 5w-20 but make sure to use the 0w-20 on the next change.

Both Toyota’s we had got 0w-20 Mobil 1 every 5k miles with the Toyota cartridge filter replacement.

I do 5k mile oil changes if it calls for a synthetic that is what it gets.
If not I use Ford Motorcraft synthetic blend in the proper weight. Motorcraft, ACDelco, or Puralator Gold Filter.

Just a tip, synthetic blends usually have less than 20% synthetic oil. For the price it’s better to just go ahead and move up to a full synthetic. And yes, I don’t know of any conventional 0w-20 oils.

My last oil change (on my F-150 EcoBoost, but still germane to the synthetic blend topic), the only local store that carried the Mobil1 synthetic blend was Pep-Boys. On the shelf just above was the Mobil1 full synthetic along with a coupon which put the price below that of the blend (score one for the little guy!). Then, I noticed that Sam's Club has the 5-qt jug of Mobil1 full synthetic regularly priced below Pep-Boys w/coupon (not so proud of myself now!).

Point being, if you shop around you can find full synthetic for the same or very close pricing as synthetic blend or conventional. Just go full synthetic for peace of mind.

quote:

Originally posted by brywards:

Point being, if you shop around you can find full synthetic for the same or very close pricing as synthetic blend or conventional. Just go full synthetic for peace of mind.

My Ecoboost Expedition came with a lifetime power train warranty from the dealer. They require oil changes every 5k at an ASE certified mechanic. My Ford dealer generally offers $30 synthetic blend oils changes where full synthetic is usually $70.
At that price nonsense I’m going synthetic.

Doing it myself I would go with Shell Rotella 0w-20 it usually is like $18 per 5 quart jug.