I am just getting interested in black powder rifles and wanted to know if standard (Hoppes bore cleaner/solvent is good for muzzleloader cleaning or do I need a specialty solvent.

Any guidance is appreciated.

Thanks

I used Hoppes #9 when I first started shooting BP, but found another cleaner that was better, specialized for BP. It's so many years back that I don't remember what it was, but I'd recommend you find and try something special.

A cautionary recommendation, though, before modern solvents, plain soap and water were used. I tried it on my Uberti Cattleman a couple times, and it rusted shut. Took a while to get it working, but I'll never try that old-fashioned process again!

It’s been a few years…I used to deer hunt a lot with a muzzleloader…Hoppes does (or did) make a black powder solvent/patch lubricant that I used and did a much better job of cleaning the bore that the regular stuff. Again, it’s been a while so I don’t know if they still offer it.

Dawn & hot water, dry, oil. Been doing it this way for 40 years.

What kind of black powder rifles? Inlines, Hawken style with hooked breech (barrel can be easily taken out of stock for cleaning), kentucky/Pennsylvania style (barrel not removed for cleaning), percussion, flintlock?

As for cleaners, yes Hoppes made something for black powder, but I don't recall it now. Have used Ballistol and water mixture for years. Dawn dish soap and water also works. The trick to avoiding flash rust is to dry quickly and use some sort of preservative on it after removing the fouling with the cleaning solutions.
Also, don't get it in the lock work unless you can pull the lock and dry that as well. After drying, I use straight Ballistol as lubricant. I live in a very dry climate so heavier oils aren't needed. If it was a damper climate, or I am storing for awhile, I go to breakfree or some other oil. When wanting to shoot it again, I will wipe out the oil, and replace with a light coat of straight Ballistol.

You have to back up a little, decide intended use then the best propellant for that use. If any hunting involved, check the regulations in that State.

If just range use, common ‘percussion’ rifle, other considerations.

Generally, ANY propellant other than Blackhorn 209, one uses a ‘soapy water solution’ for cleaning. With Blackhorn 209, Hoppes 9, or similar is called for.

If not versed, understand most black powder type firearms need to be thoroughly cleaned the day they are shot. With B209 one can go a few days before cleaning.

The soapy water solution can be made or bought, hence the ‘Dawn Dishwash’ mention. There are a plethora of options, Murphys oil soap & others.

Once cleaned in this fashion, a thin coat of oil, any, then protects the metal & bore between uses. One has to ensure things are clean & dry before the next use.

Decades ago I traded off a 36 cal black powder pistol. I gave the recipient info on cleaning. He ended up shooting it then letting it sit. It became rusted & frozen, never to be shot again.

Hot water is all you need. A mixture of Ballistol and water (aka Moose Milk" is a good solution to use while shooting to keep powder fouling soft, and will stave off corrosion, but not a substitute for thorough cleaning.

Hot water and a liquid dish soap product ala Dawn. I have also been known to use my steam cleaner with a wand that fits down the barrel. You will be amazed at the amount of "mud" that comes out of a barrel after even a brief range session. I will usually take the barrel and action out of the stock, pull the flash hole insert, put the butt end of the barrel in a bucket of hot soapy water and use a wad or mop to pull water in the flash hole and out the end of the barrel until it runs clean. Water should be hot so the metal dries quickly after cleaning.

Black powder is very corrosive, do not leave the cleaning chore until the next day. The "classic" way of cleaning a BP rifle is to separate the metal and the stock, and submerge the metal in a running stream overnight.

Find a BP/muzzle loader group near you that hosts regular competitions, you will soon be hooked. You do not have to get into the whole reenactment thing. I always maintain that gun people are the nicest people in the world, and the muzzle loaders are the nicest of the gun people.

I'd also recommend that instead of buying a complete assembled rifle, consider buying a kit that you assemble yourself. A good way to get to know your gun.

Another thing, the market for a used ‘side-lock’ muzzle loader is near nil. If that’s what you want. Of course cleanliness is a biggie, but they are out there.

It’s like when WI allow magnification when hunting with a muzzle-loader, the market for 1x scopes evaporated.

I have always used hot sudsy ammonia for my flintlock then oil like hell.

It has been mentioned above but I will repeat it. With black powder or Pyrodex you have to clean the firearm the same day you shot it. Both black powder and Pyrodex have sulfur, and water vapor is a byproduct of any carbon based combustion. Everytime you shoot you coat the barrel with battery acid.

I have tried several cleaners and haven't found one better than the best. Rusty Duck at least used to have solvent patches in a container that was easy to pack.

Dish detergent (Dawn, etc.) and water is what I wound up using. BTW, detergent and soap are different, they actually will cancel each other out. Use dish detergent not soap.

Run a couple of patches with alcohol to speed drying and oil if you intend to shoot in the near future, grease if you are done for the year. Get the flash hole, nipple, everything. Most firearms the lock is pretty easy to remove, clean that with a toothbrush every 2-3 times you shoot. If you don't want water in the lock use alcohol and then oil.

You better prepare for all the paraphernalia that goes with muzzleloaders. There is a lot of it.

Muzzleloading is a ceremony and if you don't honor the ceremony the black powder gods will be angry and punish you. They will wait until the buck of a lifetime is 20 yards in front of you. Find a Muzzleloading club and get the info you need.

Last black powder is fun but it still has all the dangers and safety rules that go with centerfire weapons. Remember all the rules of firearm safety and follow them.

Great info from all, I will be buying/using an inline (CVA Optima) and primary purpose will be for hunting. I am also planning on using the White Hot Pellets, at least initially. Thanks again for all of your input, advice and wisdom.

quote:

Originally posted by rwilli:
I am just getting interested in black powder rifles and wanted to know if standard (Hoppes bore cleaner/solvent is good for muzzleloader cleaning or do I need a specialty solvent.

Any guidance is appreciated.

Thanks

Use water, hot, warm or cold.

That's what people have been using for the last 700 years.

Cheap, too.

Oil it up afterwards, of course.

Now join the NMLA...

Black powder? Or fake black powder. (spit)

lol Either way....

My muzzle loaders and my black powder cartridge rifles (originals and reproduction) all get cleaned with Windex with Vinegar. Better than hot soapy water IMO and easier, less mess. Though with the muzzle loaders I may "submerge and pump" then in hot soapy water, or even a "moose juice" concoction depending on the breech plug style. (now I'm just confusing him even more lmao)



Then Balistol in and on them when they dry.

Sacramento Johnson on down to the one before me are all spot on. Whether or not Ballistol with water or the others, store bought or home made, you must final rinse and final patch to dry, or final final patch to dry AND THEN RELUBRICATE EVERYTHING. When you next use your firearm you must patch it to clean off oil and it helps to fire off a cap (or a flint for a flintlock) to get rid of lube. Then run a patch through the barrel. Now you are ready to actually load and shoot.

Hot water and I liked to use something ammonia based ( though I do not think it is essential)

I use mostly black powder cartridge guns like trapdoors English martinis and such. For them I use sweets 7.62. A few passes of a sloppy wet patch worked back and forth until it starts to froth let sit wipe out. Never a problem no more time or effort that I use on modern guns with smokeless really

Water and soap will do. Hot warm or cold. But it has to be cleaned the day you shot or it’ll rust. Same procedures, brush or mop or patches. Then dry it, if I’ve used cold water and am at home I will run a patch with alcohol to hurry the removal of rinse water.then oil it as normal.

quote:

Originally posted by cas:
Black powder? Or fake black powder. (spit)

lol Either way....

My muzzle loaders and my black powder cartridge rifles (originals and reproduction) all get cleaned with Windex with Vinegar. Better than hot soapy water IMO and easier, less mess. Though with the muzzle loaders I may "submerge and pump" then in hot soapy water, or even a "moose juice" concoction depending on the breech plug style. (now I'm just confusing him even more lmao)



Then Balistol in and on them when they dry.

All of this. I also use Windex to wipe between shots with my Whitworth rifle with Windex, two Sniders, original Pritchett Volunteer and P61 artillery carbine.

However, it's not sold here in UK, so when it's gone, it's really gone....

My favorite regime is to dunk the parts in oil soap (Murphy) hot water mixture, let it sit for 20 min.
scrub then rinse wit hot water, blow the remaining water off with compressed air and lubricate generously with WD40 or Ballistol - done.