Get one of these for the oil filter canister housing. Makes life much easier. https://www.amazon.com/Motivx-...+%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-5

quote:

Originally posted by J387:
Is the level steady In the overflow from day to day after each heat cycle? If so I would say everything is fine. If level is slowly lowering you have a leak and should check that your hose clamps are properly placed and then pressure test the system.

I win the dumbass of the day. One of the hose clamps, on a small 1/2” line was off. Hard to see but topped everything off, got it hot and it was dribbling. Every time I’ve added violent, it’s been cold and then drown long enough to dry out.

I hope that’s it!

Sometimes you just need the obvious pointed out.

Glad you found it. I figured it wasn’t anything major. The 5.7 is a beast.

I second the suggestion to get the correct oil filter cap wrench. We do a lot of Toyota and Lexus oil changes and at least once a week we get a cap cranked down by a gorilla. We have used three foot breaker bar occasionally. Make sure that the O-ring is oiled before you put it back together.

We have spare caps in stock but have never needed one yet.

The oil filter is a cartridge type so nothing to drive a screwdriver through. [/QUOTE]

Sounds like you found it, but if not they make a fluorescent dye that will show up under a black light. Just a thought.

Try pressurizing the coolant, they make a small pump that fits on the radiator cap. Pump it up and see if it holds pressure. You might find the leak if you look with a flashlight all over while it's pressurized.

^^^^^ Hey Jimmy, look a couple posts up. He's already found the problem and fixed it!

quote:

Originally posted by PowerSurge:
Get one of these for the oil filter canister housing. Makes life much easier. https://www.amazon.com/Motivx-...+%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-5

I had a cheaper one I bought from the dealer, the 3/8” square drive was spot welded on and ripped out when I tried to put some oomph on it.

I ended up putting a Rigid pipe wrench on it. Next time I change the oil, I’ll replace it.

The goon must have spun it on using a better wrench on a power tool. The print was flat and there was no o-ring under the drain cap. It’s never been that tight, even new. It usually only takes enough to start it and then it twists off by hand.

Yeah, it’s only supposed to be tightened to 18 ft pounds which isn’t much. Drain cap is 9 ft pounds. Drain plug on oil pan is 29 ft pounds. No o ring is bad. Talk about lazy or in a hurry. Wow.

quote:

Originally posted by Riley:
The oil filter is a cartridge type so nothing to drive a screwdriver through.

I put one of these on my 2014 Tundra. Pricey but imho, well worth it. Also got the large 1/2" drive socket to remove it. Open the valve to drain the housing, then remove, no mess.

https://jowettperformance.com/...t-oil-cap-for-filter

This is a cheaper alternative for draining the housing. I do like that canister, though.

https://www.amazon.com/JDT-TOY...r%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-5

I know this is knuckle-dragging old school, but in the past we had off-road and 4wd vehicles in remote locations that developed coolant leaks that were challenging to find. You didn't have access to all of the "newer" tech for troubleshooting.
What we did was to take a chem wipe (these are tougher than regular paper towels and will allow this)- and roll a small section into a tight roll and tie around and knot at each hose interface. (Joint).

You don't need to use a lot of material, (with potential fire hazards in mind) but just enough to encompass the joint or location. Run the engine up to operating temp for a little bit and then shut down and examine the chem wipes.
Even if the leakage dries it discolors the wipe and you can identify the leak location.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by PowerSurge:
This is a cheaper alternative for draining the housing. I do like that canister, though.

[QUOTE]

Yeah, had one of those first but got tired of trying to remove the plug without loosening the canister. Then, even with the tool, the OEM canister cracks or breaks. Also put a fumoto valve on the drain plug for ease of draining. I can attach a piece of silicone hose to it so no need to remove the skid plate. EZ oil drain valve was the seller, I think. Get the one with the screw on hose end

So far so good. The 5.7 has tons of cooling ability.

Funny, I remember seeing something from Jowett years ago about using the oil cap from a Sienna van I think. The one on the vans was aluminum while the one on the Tundra is plastic. I just never did it as it was never really an issue. He also put a late model Sequoia independent rear suspension in a Tundra.

I do like that billet cap. I have a Fumoto valve on the oil pan. I usually use a short piece of PVC pipe with the little tool from the oil filter and use that to drain the canister into a gallon zip-lock.

Normally it's only about ~45 mins from pulling skid plate to putting it back on and done. Takes me longer to dispose of the oil. Normally.

Air needs to come out the highest point in the cooling system. Get one of these: https://shop.advanceautoparts....T4Em_cxoCyhMQAvD_BwE

It comes with everything you need. Install the funnel in the radiator filler neck, put coolant in the funnel so it goes about halfway up. Start engine, let it warm up, and watch the bubbles rise to the top when no more bubbles, put the stopper in the funner, remove the funnel and adapters, and seal the radiator.