I wasn't concerned about the battery as the vehicle turns over easily and quickly. I did check it 12.45VDC.

I'm suspecting a ground issue as well, however I'm too tall and not flexible enough anymore to get into the areas where all of these harnesses are located. I had a hell of a time yesterday getting 1 fuse out and back into the under dash fuse box.

This arms me with some good information to take to the dealership this week, so thanks for the assistance. I was hoping this would be an easy fix. It may be but likely not one I am going to effect. I was wrenching on vehicles when you could pretty much bring it back from he dead with 2 screwdrivers and 2 wrenches.

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Originally posted by Rightwire:
I wasn't concerned about the battery as the vehicle turns over easily and quickly. I did check it 12.45VDC.

While I don't really suspect a bad battery from what you've said, resting battery voltage isn't really useful - many bad batteries will be somewhere in the 12.5V range with no load. Try to check it while someone else cranks the engine over (or use the remote start, if you have one). There's not really a set criteria for Go/NoGo with a handheld meter, but if it drops significantly below 10V, you have issues. Actual battery testers read faster than most DMMs & will put the load on longer than cranking to see how the voltage responds.

A loose ground is becoming more likely with the extra info - if it's causing noise in some of the circuits (such as the RR wheel speed sensor circuit). I don't know the layout of Exploders, but the RR is the longest circuits with the most connections in the vehicle on the ones I am experienced with. Lot's of places for loose ground or noise. The rear-hatch issues are interesting, depending on how the wires are routed.