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For real? |
but but they make the whoosh sound. Not minority enough! | |||
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His diet consists of black coffee, and sarcasm. |
If the engine uses a MAF (mass air flow) sensor, a poorly designed CAI will reduce performance by changing the air flow pattern over or through the sensor. This will cause it to misread and the engine to run too rich or lean, even affecting automatic transmission shifts. | |||
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I'd rather have luck than skill any day |
Clearly this is not a new concept. This is 1978 dump truck. | |||
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My other Sig is a Steyr. |
I like the picture of your dump truck. It brought back memoris of these. | |||
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It's pronounced just the way it's spelled |
If you have a turbo charged engine, CAIs are REALLY pointless. | |||
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Member |
I’ve always called them hot air intakes. Because a lot of them are just that. Most modern fuel injected cars are already equipped with a cold air intake from the factory. ——————————————— The fool hath said in his heart, There is no God. Psalm 14:1 | |||
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Member |
To echo an earlier comment, there is NO way that any aftermarket air cleaner can give more than the engineers already provided for the actual engine air needs. I had an underhood air cleaner by K&N once. Horrible noise. Horrible MPG. Horrible MAF contamination. I swapped it back for stock right quick. It was on the truck when I bought it. The brother of the original owner was so excited to get the K&N from me, as he always thought his brother's truck was so cool. The engine only demands so much air. Typical driving at part throttle does not require the volume of air possible through the larger conical aftermarket filter. ------- Trying to simplify my life... | |||
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thin skin can't win |
Well, those are shitty designs. Purpose is to open up airflow AND get it from fresher areas not underhood with that heat. You only have integrity once. - imprezaguy02 | |||
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thin skin can't win |
So on my parents New Yorker with a 440 that sounded so freaking awesome when I flipped the air cleaner lid you saying I wasn’t getting another 20 HP? BULLSHIT. You only have integrity once. - imprezaguy02 | |||
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Member |
Nope. Until you introduce something like an air-to-air or air-to-water intercooler into the equation that actively attempts to cool the intake charge, all you have is a simple air intake. And whether that air intake is sucking hot air off the pavement or out of the engine bay, the air its introducing into the intake is going to be hot. ----------------------------- Guns are awesome because they shoot solid lead freedom. Every man should have several guns. And several dogs, because a man with a cat is a woman. Kurt Schlichter | |||
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The cake is a lie! |
The cold air intake I used to have involved drilling a 3 inch hole in the wheel well where the pipe is routed through to the front of the bumper cover. To be honest, I mainly did it for the sound. I'm a big fan of OEM these days. | |||
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Member |
You’re taking about something totally different. We’re taking about an intake that brings outside air into the intake manifold. Even a factory air intake that brings in 90 degree outside air sucked in through a fender well is much cooler than engine compartment air from an aftermarket “CAI”. I have two forced induction vehicles that are intercooled and I tune them myself. You’re not going to tell me anything I don’t know already about how to get more power from them. ——————————————— The fool hath said in his heart, There is no God. Psalm 14:1 | |||
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Ammoholic |
I considered one for my car, the existing set up can flow all the air my car needs. Also the foam that seals it to the hood on the CAI, doesn't actually seal it, so many have used sheet metal or plexi glass to turn it back into an air box. I'll stick with how it was designed and save $300+. Maybe I'll buy an aFe dry filter if anything. If I am going to spend money on colder air, it's going to be a larger intercooler. Jesse Sic Semper Tyrannis | |||
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Member |
When you plant thermostats in both those locations and fully document temp ranges, then and only then would I entertain a debate that one location is "significantly" better than the other. Once the vehicle is moving at speed, air is passing through the grill and other air access points to the engine bay helping to sweep heat out of it. Doesn't make it 'cool' by any stretch of the imagination, but it does make it 'cooler'. Again, the temp differential between air sucked in off the pavement and out of the engine compartment will be negligible for the ECM to compensate for. I have no intention of attempting to teach you or anyone else here about engine building or tuning. But if you want 'cold' air, add a methanol injection system. You want 'cool' air (assuming an ice tank is not utilized) add an intercooler. Anything else is simply a basic air intake and offers little to HP or fuel efficiency numbers. ----------------------------- Guns are awesome because they shoot solid lead freedom. Every man should have several guns. And several dogs, because a man with a cat is a woman. Kurt Schlichter | |||
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Member |
Excellent product. I have one in my truck and love it. ----------------------------- Guns are awesome because they shoot solid lead freedom. Every man should have several guns. And several dogs, because a man with a cat is a woman. Kurt Schlichter | |||
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Member |
I don’t need to take temperature readings, the auto manufacturers already have. Underhood temperatures can easily reach over 200° F. Air that passes through the radiator is essentially the same as whatever the thermostat temp is for the cooling system. Usually around 180-195°. Couple that with exhaust manifold/header heat you’re over 200. That’s why if you follow the factory intake (pre-airbox) most vehicles have a plastic (or other material) duct that runs to the fender well, behind the headlight, just behind the grille, or some other place where outside air can be accessed. Both my Accords, Lightning, both Civics and Tundra have these types of setups. From the factory. Do you really think that they weren’t designed and engineered for this? The automakers aren’t going to waste money on ducting for outside air if it weren’t necessary for more power and mileage. ——————————————— The fool hath said in his heart, There is no God. Psalm 14:1 | |||
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Member |
Most of the aftermarket cold air intakes are just as you mentioned and they use an open cone (k&N type) filter that in fact does suck in hot air and has been dyno proven to make less hp. I have a Scat Pack Shaker that draws outside air into the air box and intake temps are usually within 10 degrees of ambient. The Hellcat draws air through the center of the left headlight for a similar affect. There are a few factory systems that are truly a cold air intake but the vast majority are not.This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1s1k, | |||
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Member |
The last debate you and I are likely to ever have is on the factory engineering of new vehicles. The glaring FU's these brilliant automotive minds come up with would likely need to be a thread all its own. After all, 'professional' automotive engineers and designers gave us this. I rest my case. ----------------------------- Guns are awesome because they shoot solid lead freedom. Every man should have several guns. And several dogs, because a man with a cat is a woman. Kurt Schlichter | |||
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Telecom Ronin |
This, every CAI review I have read claims no significant HP increase at least for my car. Most state a possible quicker throttle response and more turbo noise. I need neither so I bought a free flow " cleanable" non-oiled filter and removed the snow filter. | |||
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Alienator |
A true cold air intake, pipes the filter to somewhere in the bumper or includes a "box" that separates the filter from hot engine bay air. Most kits these days, are hot air filters. I have an hot air filter, because the air box opening was so restrictive but I also have ducting that shoots outside air directly to the filter. SIG556 Classic P220 Carry SAS Gen 2 SAO SP2022 9mm German Triple Serial P938 SAS P365 FDE P322 FDE Psalm 118:24 "This is the day which the Lord hath made; we will rejoice and be glad in it" | |||
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