Good am all. I bought my wife a Street Guardian 2 channel dash cam for installation in her ‘12 Toyota Highlander. I also bought the hard wiring kit to allow the camera to record while the car is off, running off the cars battery power. I played around a little with trying to tie it all into the under dash fuse panel, but had no success, besides the fact that the footwell is very tight, and my portly torso cant fit and move around very well under there. My question is what specific fuses do I tie these fuse taps into? Looks like I need a switched accessory fuse, and unswitched always on, and naturally a ground. Anyone install a camera in a
Highlander? Thanks to all.

I did a Garmin in my new Honda Passport. I used one of the power window fuses for power. I did not wire for Parking Mode. You do have to be a contortionist to make the connections.

Most vehicles are equipped with a few, relatively high amperage circuits that simply aren't used on that particular vehicle that you can use. Stuff you may not be equipped with. For instance power seats, seat heaters, block heaters, diesel pre-heating (if yours isn't a diesel) would all have lots of capacity. My Volvo also had an easily accessible fused accessory circuit that didn't go anywhere, specifically for stuff you might add.

You need a digital multimeter to test for voltage, so you can determine which fuse is constant 12 volt and which is switched with ignition. You can ground almost anywhere- look for bar e metal and/or factory ground points under the dash.

If you don’t want to contort yourself under the dash, that radio comes out pretty easily, using a plastic pry tool to unclip two panels, and four 10mm bolts holding the radio assembly. Here is a link to instructions:

http://www.metraonline.com/fil.../INST99-8222_web.pdf

You can get constant, ignition, and ground, all at the radio harnesses. And there is a lot of room behind that radio, so it should be easy to drop your wires down and get them over to the drivers side under dash, to route to the camera behind the weather stripping or “A pillar”- normally can tuck without having to remove anything. Might need to pry off panel on drivers side of dash to make it easier, if that’s possible-don’t remember.

The hardest part of getting the radio out is unplugging the harnesses on the back. When you are testing for ignition MAKE SURE that the hazard assembly with airbag lights is plugged in- IF YOU TURN ON IGNITION with it unplugged you may throw a code that needs to be cleared with a scan tool. It won’t damage anything and airbags will still work, but you’ll have a check engine light until it’s cleared. Nothing else ne Ed’s to be plugged in.

Once you find the right wires, I would advise soldering or butt connecting your connections, but t-taps will work if you don’t have any other means.

Thanks guys. Yea, at 5’10 and 240 lbs. a contortionist I’m not. Got both cameras and gps mounted including wiring between everything. Now for the fun part. Ive got a test light and multi-meter, so in I go. Thanks for the help...

On my wife's car I was able to just unlatch the glove box, swing it down out of the way and place all the stuff, including the adjustable low voltage cut off, there for easy access if ever needed and run the wires behind the A pillar trim to the roof. Then I ran hookup wire through the firewall to the fuse box under the hood. I used two add a fuse for power tap. Also important is to label the added wires at the tap point so anyone else will know what they are for in the future. One good thing... the cams use very little power.

Add a fuse (fuse size specific)

Thanks Cpark. I got called into work for a few hrs yesterday so when I got home I just ran the cigarette plug to power it all up and aim the cameras. Ill have to get back to the wiring next weekend. Ive got all the fuses and taps, I just need to determine the specific fuses in the panel to tap into. Thanks to all.