So I have a 2002 Chevy Silverado 1500 LS extended cab 4x4 Z-71 truck and just the other day I suddenly experienced a major steering problem.

I can turn the steering wheel to the left absolutely fine, but if I turn it to the right I hear a hissing sound and it is almost impossible to turn the steering wheel at parking lot speeds. At normal speed, it is not an issue.

All of the research I have done seems to indicate the problem is the steering gear box. I already know my pitman arm and idler arm need to be replaced so they might as well be done while fixing this. Of course I will replace the idler arm bracket while replacing the idler arm.

I am absolutely no mechanic at all. I can research the hell out of things and follow directions. I have replaced my own engine shock sensors which required removing the entire upper manifold and also replaced my wheel bearings and discs along with other smaller jobs.

This job however seems intimidating as there is a lot to do and removing the pitman and idler arm seem to not be easy. At least the special puller tools to remove them can be borrowed from local auto stores.

Parts seem to be around $600-$700. I have gone to two shops so far and both are quoting me $1,000 for labor. I am curious if anyone has experience with this type of job and if it is worth taking on myself or taking it to a shop.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: StorminNormin,

Most people know if they have the aptitude and experiance to do such work.

If you do, but are not familiar with a later model vehicle, I would say you should be fine, might find you overlook a thing, or run up against an unknown, but you can get past it.

If you do not have the experience, then "call the man". You do not want to be messing with safety item, and steering is pretty much a "you don't wanna mess that up" thing.

I can mechanic anything, and not much will deter me, but I will not advise anyone to proceed against their own better judgment or ability.

What you describe sounds more like a power steering pump internal "leak" or the pressure relief valve failing and not permitting fluid assist to the right side turning.

Given it otherwise turns without trouble, it would be "assist" (fluid pressure) and not the gearbox (mechanical).

See if you can find a youtube video about it.

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I am absolutely no mechanic at all.

I think you answered your own question. Suspension and steering components absolutely must be done correctly. Find a good shop to have them check it out 1st and go from there. It may not be a steering gear box.

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Originally posted by Jelly:

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I am absolutely no mechanic at all.

I think you answered your own question.

Yep. Sounds like it's worth the $1000 to make sure it's done right, and to avoid having to deal with unforeseen complications that could be even more complex and even further outside your ability to handle.

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Originally posted by Texas Bob C.:
See if you can find a youtube video about it.

I'm sure you can. But YouTube can't tell you your personal comfort level or mechanical aptitude, nor can it ensure that you don't inadvertently miss something or screw something up because you don't really know what you're doing and are just trying to follow along while getting in over your head.

YouTube is a fantastic resource for repairing stuff and tackling projects, but you've gotta have a solid awareness on your own capabilities and limits first.

Replacing the steering gear, pitman arm, idler arm and idler arm bracket (make sure and do both as they sell them as separate parts for some odd reason) are pretty straight forward.

(Edit: I misread/misunderstood the intent of the OP’s question before posting. Sorry!) Do you value the vehicle? These days I am of the opinion that it makes more sense to maintain what you have, knowing it may seem expensive to do so. I would have no hesitations to spend the money it would take for this repair - but only if I still liked the vehicle. It’s a fine line. There is and will be value to ‘old’ things at this point. There are still parts readily available, and vehicles of this vintage aren’t overly bogged down with electronics. My dos centavos.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: phxtoad,

I've redone the front end on my 2003 2500HD and it isn't that big a job. Ask me about doing head gaskets on a LB7 Duramax with the cab still on the truck, and you'll get a different answer.

You can do it. Like you said you can do research and you’ve done some basic jobs. The pitman arm is connected to the steering box that you are replacing. Just leave it on and buy a new one. Straight to the alignment shop when finished.

When I say I am not a mechanic, I mean I don’t do it regularly. Just like I am not a builder, but I have built my own large shed and many other home projects. To me any new project I approach is intimidating and I research the hell out of it because I am a perfectionist.

I was interested if anyone had any tips or tricks if they have done this. I have researched this job like crazy and written down all steps, torque specs, and tool sizes to make sure I will have everything if I do it. I have one more shop to go get a quote from tomorrow. I found all the parts and can get them for $500.

A neighbor down the street is a 30+ year mechanic who specializes in GM products and used to own his own shop but lost it in COVID and now works at a dealer 6 days a week. He doesn’t have time for side work and today I saw him and explained the problem and he agrees it is in the steering gear box and not steering pump.

So we will see what quote tomorrow says. If they too want over $1K for labor then I will do it myself and then bleed the system and have an alignment done.

Do you (or your neighbor down the street) have a factory shop manual for your truck?

Better to get your info & specs from there instead of some random wrench on yootoob.

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Originally posted by .38supersig:
Do you (or your neighbor down the street) have a factory shop manual for your truck?

Better to get your info & specs from there instead of some random wrench on yootoob.

Yes, I have the Haynes repair manual and that is where I got my specs because you are correct as I saw some bolt’s torque vary on the specific year.

I got a general overview of how to do things from the manual and watched tons of videos to see it done and hear some tips or problems.

At least if I get into a bind, but I don’t think I will, I can call on my neighbor for help on the specific item I might have problem with.

I have one tip. Take and hogtie the steering wheel with your seatbelt before you remove the steering shaft from the box. If the wheel is allowed to spin free it will break the clock spring in the column. I don't have first hand experience breaking a clock spring, but plenty of people have and I reckon it is a little pricey to replace.

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Originally posted by DougE:
I have one tip. Take and hogtie the steering wheel with your seatbelt before you remove the steering shaft from the box. If the wheel is allowed to spin free it will break the clock spring in the column. I don't have first hand experience breaking a clock spring, but plenty of people have and I reckon it is a little pricey to replace.

Very much appreciate the tip. I heard that from videos and have it written down in my steps in addition to paint marking how it was attached on both ends. Also will make sure wheels are centered forward and verify new gear box is set at center position before installing Pitman arm and then installing assembly back into truck.

The pitman arm is splined in such a way that you will really only be able to put it on one way, so having your wheels centered isn't a huge deal. Pretty much take the box off and line the new one up so that the stud on the pitman arm will go in, and you're good to go.

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Originally posted by DougE:
The pitman arm is splined in such a way that you will really only be able to put it on one way, so having your wheels centered isn't a huge deal. Pretty much take the box off and line the new one up so that the stud on the pitman arm will go in, and you're good to go.

Thanks! Sometimes I over think things.

GM makes 2 pitman arms for these trucks. One has 3 "master" splines, one has 4, if I remember correctly. The master splines are wide like a keyway so it's impossible to put it on the box and still have the pitman arm oriented in such a way that the stud will engage the drag link.

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Originally posted by DougE:
GM makes 2 pitman arms for these trucks. One has 3 "master" splines, one has 4, if I remember correctly. The master splines are wide like a keyway so it's impossible to put it on the box and still have the pitman arm oriented in such a way that the stud will engage the drag link.

Thanks. Yeah at first when I was looking at what gear box to order I was uncertain if mine was 3 or 4 and also if mine had the luxury edition or not. I figured out the code to know to look for in the glove box to see if it was luxury edition or not and also got under truck today and was able to get the part number off of the gear box so now I know for sure I am ordering all of the correct parts.

From what I gathered, the most common are the 3 master spline ones on the pickups with mostly vans having the 4 spline one. Either will work so long as the steering box shaft and the spline on the pitman arm match.

You have any issues if you do this yourself, 1) post here that you have emailed me (in profile) and I will talk you through it on the phone if need be.