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Green grass and
high tides
Picture of old rugged cross
posted
I have a gas powered unit. Used very little. I have had issues with the Briggs engine.

Thinking of selling and buying one that is hydraulic that I can run off of my Kubota tractor or Mini Ex's hydraulics.

Any recommendations.

Thanks guys.



"Practice like you want to play in the game"
 
Posts: 19256 | Registered: September 21, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of cparktd
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Most of the few tractor run splitters I have seen were sloooow… due to low volume (GPM) of the tractor hydraulics.

So do some checking… Cylinder size and recommended GPM vs your equipment output.



If it ain't woke... don't fix it.
 
Posts: 4131 | Location: Middle Tennessee | Registered: February 07, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by cparktd:
Most of the few tractor run splitters I have seen were sloooow… due to low volume (GPM) of the tractor hydraulics.

So do some checking… Cylinder size and recommended GPM vs your equipment output.


^^^This. Get one with it's own PTO driven pump and tank. MUCH faster, and you don't have to deal with condensation from temperature cycling on the tractor's hydraulics. Usually higher pressures and therefore greater splitting force as well.

I've had one for a LONG time and the only thing I've ever done to it is replace a hose.




Be careful when following the masses. Sometimes the M is silent.
 
Posts: 15276 | Location: Downeast Maine | Registered: March 10, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of sourdough44
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Wouldn’t the least expensive option be getting the one you have running better? Even if it came down to a new engine or maybe carb? Hire a shop to look at it?

My neighbor put a new engine on his old splitter. It’s not real pretty, but it works.

I treated myself to a nice one years ago, got away from the borrowing thing. I got an ‘Iron & Oak’, lite commercial model.
 
Posts: 6194 | Location: WI | Registered: February 29, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by PHPaul: Get one with it's own PTO driven pump and tank. MUCH faster, and you don't have to deal with condensation from temperature cycling on the tractor's hydraulics. Usually higher pressures and therefore greater splitting force as well.

I've had one for a LONG time and the only thing I've ever done to it is replace a hose.


That's the answer. I don't have a splitter, but have a PTO driven chipper. The feed rollers are hydraulic and the chipper has its own pump. Compact tractors can generate decent hydraulic pressure, but the flow rate isn't all that impressive.
 
Posts: 8963 | Location: The Red part of Minnesota | Registered: October 06, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Blume9mm
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quote:
Originally posted by old rugged cross:
I have a gas powered unit. Used very little. I have had issues with the Briggs engine.


I think the "used very little" is the issue with the engine.... gasoline hates to sit... especially now with the ethanol added... and small engines really don't like this either....


My Native American Name:
"Runs with Scissors"
 
Posts: 4441 | Location: Greenville, SC | Registered: January 30, 2017Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Cparked and PHPaul have it right - the pump volume - gallons per minute - will affect the speed of the ram. If you were to go with a “bigger, higher ton, more powerful” splitter, this would just mean the splitter piston is a larger diameter. For a given gpm, the bigger the piston the slower the ram.
A self contained pump on the splitter, driven by the pto, would be the best option. It also eliminates the maintenance of a separate engine.
The cheapest solution is the fix the Briggs engine. Then use a gas preservative and only alcohol free gas in the machine.
While I may be wrong on this, virtually all small engines use aluminum carburetors. Alcohol will absorb water, even from the air. Water & aluminum will eventually do a kind of “rusting” kind of corrosion. Aluminum oxide flakes can obstruct small passages in the carbs and now nothing works. While there may be shops out there that will try to fix a carburetor, often it is cheaper to replace it. Some shops don’t even want to do that, as they make more money replacing the entire engine. End of rambling thread…
 
Posts: 2134 | Location: south central Pennsylvania | Registered: November 05, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of ridewv
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I've had a 22 ton MTD splitter (so not a great unit) with a basic B&S engine since 2008 and the thing still works well. It does have a fairly large, 4 gallon reservoir of fluid. I've been waiting for the engine to start smoking or knocking at which point I'll replace it but so far the damn thing still starts right up and uses no oil.

There are advantages of using a dedicated splitter vs running your tractor to power one. Replacement motors aren't very expensive.


No car is as much fun to drive, as any motorcycle is to ride.
 
Posts: 7122 | Location: Northern WV | Registered: January 17, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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At the end of use of the splitter, turn the fuel off and run the carb dry. This reduces the problem of fuel evaporating in the carb, leaving a sticky residue. Year old gasoline should be okay, as long as condensation does not build up inside the fuel tank and sit on the bottom.


-c1steve
 
Posts: 4065 | Location: West coast | Registered: March 31, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I will add one small set of experience and thoughts. I have a tractor direct driven hydraulic splitter. Its a very high quality piece made in Canada. I don't find its performance problematic. What I do find is that:
1. Installing it is a pia versus using a standalone splitter on wheels with a ball to move it. I have to get whatever is currently on the rear 3 point off and then connect both the splitter and the hydraulics.
2. AND THIS IS MY BIG OBJECTION. Running the splitter is putting time on a very very expensive diesel engine. I'd guess an overhaul is probably 10-15K on my tractor motor. When I could be putting time on a small disposable gas engine that's completely easy to source and replace for a fraction of that.

non ethanol fuel solves most of the small gas engine fuel issues. And if not mostly a new carb (<$100) gets it done.
YMMV of course.


“So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.”
 
Posts: 11020 | Registered: October 14, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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And for the big stuff



They make'em for excavators, skid steers and back hoes.

Each of the fellows on these vids have dozens of great vids on splitters,
The good and the not so good of what they have tried.

I think you will find their information very helpful.





Safety, Situational Awareness and proficiency.



Neck Ties, Hats and ammo brass, Never ,ever touch'em w/o asking first
 
Posts: 54714 | Location: Henry County , Il | Registered: February 10, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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If you have a source for Avation Gas, it run really well in most small engines. has quite a bit of lead in it though.

OZ
 
Posts: 161 | Registered: February 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Safety, Situational Awareness and proficiency.



Neck Ties, Hats and ammo brass, Never ,ever touch'em w/o asking first
 
Posts: 54714 | Location: Henry County , Il | Registered: February 10, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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When you are pumping out three or four cords a day.

Your neighbors will start telling you about free wood.

Pretty soon,
You will be selling a dozen cords a month @ $470.00 per cord.





Safety, Situational Awareness and proficiency.



Neck Ties, Hats and ammo brass, Never ,ever touch'em w/o asking first
 
Posts: 54714 | Location: Henry County , Il | Registered: February 10, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Lumber Jill





Safety, Situational Awareness and proficiency.



Neck Ties, Hats and ammo brass, Never ,ever touch'em w/o asking first
 
Posts: 54714 | Location: Henry County , Il | Registered: February 10, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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