Some graphite powder maybe. Any thoughts? Its an older (80's) trailer. So not the cheapish stuff of more current production.
Lack of use, age and proximity to saltwater are surely the culprit.
Thanks

Maybe the graphite powder squeezed/puffed in, followed by some wd40 squirted in to wash the graphite into the mechanics inside?

A little wiggle with the key then let it soak/sit a bit?

Repeat.

You need a liquid that will penetrate down into the crevices, convert the old grease back into a lubricant, and have its own lubricating ability.

We had a lock lubricant thread last Oct or Nov, and I ended up buying Tri-Flow as a result. The reason for selecting it was the Sigforum locksmiths recommended it. My local Ace Hardware sells it.

I have heard tri flow is good. I like smelly old JB 80.

I have a friend who went through the same thing.

His got hard to open and something inside broke when he tried to force it harder than normal.

Upon taking it apart it's just cheap zinc pot metal construction. A new assembly was required.

Upon his advice, spray it as best you can and let it sit, repeat a couple times, then VERY GENTLY tap on it with a rubber hammer while GENTLY moving the handle to try to open it.

BTW, should you have a need, COLAW RV & COLAW RV Salvage (Missouri's largest RV dealer) also has the nation's largest RV salvage yard, should you need something for your RV that is not normally available through everyday RV parts departments.

Good luck to you, I'd like to see what you had to do to get it back in working service.

Houdini spray.

You're asking this in a gun forum? The answer is obvious: Just shoot it out. Sheesh.



More seriously: I guess I'd zap it with WD-40 and a shot of compressed air, let it sit, then try again.

Some great info guys. Really appreciate it. Will report back with results when we can get to the location.

As always. "Thank you"

Breakfree CLP in the spray can, that stuff works wonders on locks AND keeps them lubricated for a very long time......spray it in there, let it sit, tap the lock with something heavy, but not enough to damage the lock, spray more breakfree in there and work the key in and out to distribute it and try it.

It is probably rust inside so I would use Kroil. I have six locks outdoors on gates, etc and they get hard to open and will not close without a key and bumping them. Kroil fixes them like new. I have to do this about once a year.

The best price is buying directly from Kroil:

http://www.kanolabs.com/google...GJuVPNBoCcV0QAvD_BwE

Kroil is my go to for this kind of stuff.

PB Blaster is a good product. WD40 is not a good penetrating product and it has a tendency to congeal over time.

quote:

Originally posted by 220-9er:
Kroil is my go to for this kind of stuff.

Kroil for the win.

I had a can of Kroil that got punctured, put it in a bottle with some Mobil 1 drippings and I have been using that on my RVs, exterior automotive door, tailgate, truck tool box locks, and anything that sees road salt and dirt.

I know oil attracts dirt, but the type of corrosion prone locks I'm using it on are mostly pot metal exterior self cleaning open design types, and in many years of use it works.

I started the thread last year and bought Houdini spray as a result. Works great.

A friend bought 3 in 1 lock dry lube and it worked like magic she said. She made entry to do what I needed done since I could not be on site. Locks work perfectly now. So again, thank you guys.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Chris42:
Maybe the graphite powder squeezed/puffed in, followed by some wd40 squirted in to wash the graphite into the mechanics inside?

A little wiggle with the key then let it soak/sit a bit?

Repeat.[/QUOTE/

A hefty dose of WD40 should do a lot to loosen it up. Then after it is open and working some graphite. I have resurrected a few padlocks that way.

Kroil for sure.

Another vote for Kroil. If rust/corrosion is the issue, graphite could just gum it up worse.

A few posts up this page, ORC reports the problem has been solved...