A little bit off topic here…

I have an old Jet standing drill press. While I have the Jacob‘s chuck for it, the previous owner had installed a keyless precision chuck - which is easily one of the nicest upgrades to make. FYI

Came with it. I will show you in person this weekend.

Also I have a (~70 yr old?) Walker Turner bandsaw that weighs close to 800 pounds. You might enjoy that.

Most of my power tools were acquired second hand.

quote:

Originally posted by SIGnified:
I have an old Jet standing drill press. While I have the Jacob‘s chuck for it, the previous owner had installed a keyless precision chuck - which is easily one of the nicest upgrades to make. FYI

Albrecht makes the hallmark precision chucks, but they are spendy. They come with or without an integral arbor, such as Morse taper, R8, straight. Their precision (almost zero runout) is probably lost on any but the most expensive drill press, as the drill press quill will have more runout.
 
Albrecht keyless drill chucks.

quote:

Originally posted by henryaz:

Albrecht makes the hallmark precision chucks, but they are spendy. They come with or without an integral arbor, such as Morse taper, R8, straight. Their precision (almost zero runout) is probably lost on any but the most expensive drill press, as the drill press quill will have more runout.
 
Albrecht keyless drill chucks.

Thank you for that post. No doubt the drill press quill has far more excess runout. Not careful, and I get a trilobed hole.

Just found this; it looks like the same setup as what I have.

https://www.practicalmachinist...e-need-chuck-338568/

As long as you don't go nuts with the torque, I'd chuck up a large allen key, holt that stationary and run that nut down against the chuck. If it's a Morse taper it should pop off.

Otherwise it's probably threaded and you can give the key some wacks with a mallet to unthread it.

I got it! Based on everything I learned (from the forum, plus I called Jet and Jacobs), I purchased a set of #6 Jacobs wedges. I walked the nut upwards just enough to barely get the wedges between it and the chuck. With barely a couple of taps, the chuck popped off! The taper is pristine, and I've already got a used Jacobs precision, keyless chuck (made in Spain, oo la la) on the way! Not bad for $30.

Sooo, after all that, what was wrong with the original Chuck and why did you 'need' to remove it?

None of your post were critical of it's condition or indicated that it was unsuitable for your intended purpose. One of your posts included actually included the following:

"There is no rust on this thing anywhere. It’s actually very clean."

Not sure you were referring to the Chuck specifically, or Drill Press generally, but most of the discussion and the detail pics you posted were of the Chuck. Just wondering...

I was referring to the press, overall. I wanted to replace the chuck with a keyless model because:

1. I didn't have a key at the moment.
2. They are less of a pain in the ass.

I also just wanted to become familiar with my tool and how it was designed.

Thanks for the topic, very interesting, and as a tool junkie deluxe, I've learned something new.
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When my Nova drill press arrived I already had a new spindle and an Albrecht keyless chuck waiting for it. Total runout is less then .002. Maybe not necessary for woodworking but if the tool is good any mistakes are on me. Keyless is great too.

quote:

Originally posted by mark60:
When my Nova drill press arrived I already had a new spindle and an Albrecht keyless chuck waiting for it. Total runout is less then .002. Maybe not necessary for woodworking but if the tool is good any mistakes are on me. Keyless is great too.

Woo! That's pretty damn good. I have a Monarch lathe at work; they claim a 5 MILLIONTH runout on the spindle, even on a refurbished unit.