I picked up this sweet Jet drill press at an auction. It was made in Japan, and I'm super impressed with the build quality so far. I was wondering how I can remove the chuck. On other, newer Jets (also pictured), the side of the quill has a slot for a wedge tool to be tapped into, pushing out the Morse taper with the chuck attached. This only has the nut just above the knurled part of the chuck; there is no slot on the side of the quill. I can spin it freely by hand for a bit in either direction before it stops. I figured I would tap into the forum wisdom before trying to get a wrench to tighten/loosen the nut in hope of pushing out the chuck.

A search for a manual online has yielded mostly directions for the aforementioned slot/wedge model.

Another side question, what is the panel for in the base? A foot pedal switch perhaps?

quote:

I can spin it freely by hand for a bit in either direction before it stops.

The nut or the chuck?? If it is just the nut do not disturb the chuck at this point. I'll be back

That nut might be part of a odd ball collet holder system. It hard to say without seeing it in person.

The spindle on the old one most likely is not a standard configuration.

I suspect the spindle has a slotted collet in it that compresses when the nut is tightened or....

The nut may also be bearing against a shoulder on the chuck tang with a key in there some where.

Lube with Kroil or WD40 and tap around with a copper or brass hammer, and see if you can get more movement on the nut. Tap on the chuck also, see if you can generate some looseness anywhere. Hardened oil with dust , rust and grit can really make things act funny. Are there any holes in outer spindle at all? I really want to know what's up. If the nut went on it has to come off. Nice find!

 
Look at the very top of the spindle, see if there is a nut of any kind (such as internal hex/allen wrench type). That would the the top of the drawbar, which is type of arbor for holding drill chucks and other things, like end mill holders, etc. The drawbar type arbor is instead of a Morse taper arbor.

If it is a drawbar arbor, you have to be able to lock the spindle from spinning while you loosen the nut at the top. There is usually some built in mechanism for this purpose.

Chucks are threaded inside so take your key in the hole and hold the nut with a wrench and break it loose and screw it off. You will probably need to hit it with a heavy piece of brass or something.

I would suggest you get more information from Jet or a place that sells/repairs power tools.

I wouldn't BUBBA it.

quote:

Originally posted by kyoung:
Chucks are threaded inside so take your key in the hole and hold the nut with a wrench and break it loose and screw it off. You will probably need to hit it with a heavy piece of brass or something.

Some are, but many have a Morse Taper on the spindle and chuck.pull the chuck down and see if there isn't a slot on the spindle tube for a taper tool to remove the chuck.

The tool for removing the JT or Morse taper shank chucks from a quill is called a drift. I dont understand what that hex nut does. I dont believe your Jet came like that new. Dunno why the plate on its base either.

quote:

Originally posted by David Lee:
Dunno why the plate on its base either.

If it's like my much newer Jet DP that base is slotted--which makes for a great place for smaller bits to fall into out of which it's subsequently a PITA to get them back out.

Maybe the nut is like the collar shown in this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WK7GE7Tbshk

I'll guess the plate on the base allows mounting of fixtures or vises to allow drilling longer items.

I’ll get some more detailed pics to see if that helps. There is no rust on this thing anywhere. It’s actually very clean.

When I say it spins freely, I’m referring to the nut. The spindle does run freely, too. This thing runs very well.

What is the "arc of shame"? I'm assuming some kind of damage from not using it properly. I will also be needing a chuck key for it.

The shot up through the bottom does NOT show an Allen bolt. It looks like the bottom of a a spindle.

Here are some shots of the nut; it spins very smoothly by hand.

Nut up:



Nut down:



The quill has no slots on the sides, only a guide key slot on the right and the gear teeth on the back:




I'm KIND OF thinking that the chuck gets pushed/tapped onto a short tapered spindle and the nut would be lowered to push the chuck back off of it. I'm not yet willing to try that, though.

Look around the smooth area where the round hole for the chuck key goes. A Jacobs would have a model number there.
This is an older Japanese model so it may be some other brand of chuck.
I'm nut sure what the nut does but it looks like it is a Morse taper into a female hole in the chuck.
I'd also give it a shot of penetrating oil around where the spindle on the top of the chuck. Then use a Bernz-o-matic torch to warm the area at the top of the chuck while wedging something between the bottom of the nut and the top of the chuck.Try two screwdrivers carefully. Keep the heat on the chuck, not the spindle and don't get it real hot. Just enough to get some expansion so the taper will release with careful coaxing.
If that doesn't work and it's a threaded mount, put the key in the hole and tap it from right to left with a brass hammer to see if it will unscrew.

I have some Kroil; I'll try just that before getting the torch out. So far, it looks like this thing was taken care of well enough. I haven't had to force any other pieces to move on it.

There are no other markings on the chuck besides what I pictured.

Maybe this is like the short end of a #2 Morse Taper...or it's something similar to this one, but with the nut instead of the collar, like what pbslinger posted.

Forgot to mention, the top of the spindle has this, which DOES move up and down with the quill.

Some chucks have a tapered shaft that wedge fits into a tapered hole.

Two websites to offer:

vintage machinery

old woodworking machines

These are very informative websites. They may not have your press specifically but the help there is like this forum. Someone will have an answer.

Get a Heinrich vise for you drill press unless you have some vises already.

The arc of shame is clamping the piece to the table without a vice. The piece is drilled through and the drill bit drills into the table.

quote:

Originally posted by papaac:
Some are, but many have a Morse Taper on the spindle and chuck.

And some use a Morse taper for the end that goes into the quill, and a Jacob's taper for the end going into the chuck.
 
flesheatingvirus, the allen nut would be at the top of the quill if it were a drawbar arbor. On top, you have a spanner nut, ostensibly securing the pulley. I would be interested in removing that spanner nut and pulley and seeing what it looks like underneath. At least to clean up what's underneath. If you don't have a spanner wrench, tap against one of those slots with a hammer and screwdriver or punch, moving the nut in a CCW direction. If needed, Kroil those threads too.
 
In other pictures I have seen of the 13R (the F is for floor model, I think, as the 13R was a bench top model), the nut above the chuck is present.

In the pictures of the nut down, it looks like its tapered into the spindle. You should tighten the nut against the spindle and it will pop it out. It will be tight if its never been out... Have something under the chuck to catch it when it does break loose!

If you want the chuck off while leaving the spindle in pace These are used on a lot of chucks. They do come in different sizes though.