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It's my understanding that's why the flap discs are a good choice, they work fast minimizing heat build up.
 Set the controls for the heart of the Sun. | |||
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| Victim of Life's Circumstances  |
I know and I use a flap disc now but this sanding disc works well and it's the only picture I had. I wondered if anyone would notice?  Yes I use the spatula on the grill along with some CLR grill spray to keep the steaks from sticking. How come no one comes to my cook outs?  Hustler has a great design. Easy to remove blades 3/4" nut if I'm remembering correctly. These are my mower sharpening tools.  ________________________ God spelled backwards is dog | |||
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| Like a party in your pants  |
A little side tracking here, My mower deck has three blades, when I install them does it matter how they are in relation to each other ( staggered, inline, off set,etc). | |||
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| Victim of Life's Circumstances |
Don't you have 3 spindles as well? Honda uses 2 blades on the same spindle on their 21" mulching mower but most riders are 1 blade per spindle. I have used 2 blades per spindle crisscrossed back when I was a perfectionist and wanted distinct stripes. This is my last year of mowing for hire and I just want to get finished. ________________________ God spelled backwards is dog | |||
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W07VH5 |
Only if the deck is timed. If you have a toothed belt that keeps the blades in the same position relative to each other. | |||
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Member |
This is how my manual says to place them.  | |||
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Member |
I use a flap disc to sharpen stuff. The type I use have cutouts so you can see what material you are removing while grinding. Wurth sells them, probably others as well. One disc will last a long time if you don't abuse it. I also like the pistol grip air sander vs. an angle grinder. I'd like to think I am more accurate with it.....  | |||
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| Member |
Looks interesting but those aren't jumping out at me. Do you have a link for them? Set the controls for the heart of the Sun. | |||
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| Like a party in your pants |
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Optimistic Cynic |
That if the end of the blade starts to get rounded off, you can cut it at an angle to eliminate the rounding. A blade end profile like this: -------\ --------\ ---------\ ----------\ is just fine. Stronger than, and preferred to a "step" ala: ------------ -----------| --------------- --------------| --------------- | |||
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| Member |
Thanks. It then comes down to how much loss of cutting width you're willing to put up with? Could you put an edge on the angled section and maintain that width or is that section where the most cutting occurs anyway (the back of the blade defining the width of cut)? If I'm thinking right, that would slice the grass rather than chop it, no? Set the controls for the heart of the Sun. | |||
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Nullus Anxietas |
I once sharpened my own blades on my bench grinder. Had a jig of some kind made up so as to maintain the angle. Found that if I stopped just shy of putting an edge on the blade, I could quickly finish it off with a flat file and end up with a really nice edge and no burning. I got busy and got into the habit of sending them out. Somewhere along the line I lost my jig, and can't figure out how I did it before. I was hoping to find flap discs for my RotoZip RotoSaw cutoff attachment. Apparently they made them for a short while, but no longer. I don't want to spend an arm and a leg on setting up to sharpen my own blades. Maybe I'll just keep having somebody else do them. "America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system,,,, but too early to shoot the bastards." -- Claire Wolfe "If we let things terrify us, life will not be worth living." -- Seneca the Younger, Roman Stoic philosopher | |||
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| Member |
I used belt sander on mine today Very opportune timing of this thread Changed the oil also ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Live today as if it may be your last and learn today as if you will live forever | |||
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| Member |
How Lawn Mower Blades Cut Grass (at 50,000 FRAMES PER SECOND) | |||
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| Member |
Ripley, if you sharpen the end of the blade it will shear the grass as you suggest. The problem comes when you wear that edge and need to sharpen again - now you are making the blade shorter. If you have a deck with multiple blades you get to a point where the blade circles no longer overlap and the deck leaves strips uncut between the blade circles. The video was very good. I think it does point out (from watching it cut) that a certain length of leading/cutting edge does need to be sharpened to be effective. Or, there is a relationship between blade speed and cutting edge length. Ie - higher rpms allow a shorter cutting edge. | |||
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| Member |
Thanks, Chris42. Since mowing is a PITA, particularly at this time of year, why not make the most of the effort? Just spitballing here. Instead of keeping the end square, angle front to back with that edge sharpened. What angle? Maybe up to 45 degrees, 30 maybe safer with more material backing the edge. As long as the rear edge of the blade is not shortened, the width of cut is maintained. Also, any lift from the rear edge upkick isn't changed. Obviously blade balance will have to be addressed as well as some loss of inertia with less mass. I guess. Am I making any sense here? I've got my share of old blades, I'll try to reprofile with that sharpened angle and see if I live to tell about it. I doubt I'm the first to think this way, expecting something less than optimum. Then again, maybe not. Set the controls for the heart of the Sun. | |||
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| Victim of Life's Circumstances |
I try and keep the same original profile. I'd say it's between 35-45 degrees and I don't go for razor sharp but do get sharper than a plastic credit card edge. I've seen some experts say that is sharp enough. Those gator blades I use have sharpened sail edges and the clippings get cut down to little pieces. makes them disappear almost but the operator gets pretty dirty. Great for fall leaves too, turns them into dust but, again, the operator is a pigpen. ________________________ God spelled backwards is dog | |||
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| W07VH5 |
I've never tried the gator blades on my mowers. My old boss had a set on his that we used but we never saw much difference. Are the claims really accurate? I've always considered the claims dubious. | |||
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| Victim of Life's Circumstances |
Oh yeah, Gator G5 or G6 do a much better job than the original G3. Downside is the little clippings tend to blow out the front of the deck in a big way. Doesn't affect the yard's appearance but your cutting deck may have a pile of clippings a couple inches deep and you'll get dirty. If the wind catches your discharge just right you'll get a face full too. Just blow clippings off with your blower. I use factory high lift blades on the left and center spindle and then a Gator on the discharge side for regular mowing and switch to all gators for leaves. Turns them to dust. Many of the old timers on Lawn Site use G5s year round. The G6s are heavier and take more horsepower to turn. G5s are same width but thinner. I've got both and can't tell much difference and my 37hp Kaw can turn either easily. When I need new ones I'll go with G5s. ________________________ God spelled backwards is dog | |||
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Void Where Prohibited |
The Gator blades aren't miraculous, but I do think they do a better job mulching than the stock blades that came on my Husqvarna tractor. I like them and will buy them again. I sharpen them with my bench grinder twice a year. "If Gun Control worked, Chicago would look like Mayberry, not Thunderdome" - Cam Edwards | |||
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