Photo below.
I have my Daughters 2007 ram 1500 quad cab 2WD with the 3.7 V-6 here to do some needed repairs for her. Upper and lower ball joints, 4 new shocks and an oil change. She bought it... a rebuilt wreck with salvage title... it has served her well for a several years.

Anyway, I noticed this blinking red light on the dash and asked her what it meant, she had no idea but said it always did it. It's WAY more obvious then those little blinking security lights you see on some cars.

I might find a owners manual online but I bet someone here knows the answer.
It is blinking red, very bright and noticeable.
Between the speedo and temp gauges.

I'm not postive but I tihnk it is just to draw your attention to the message LOWASH under the PRND21. Low washer fluid or if full the float is tuck or bad.

quote:

Originally posted by Rotndad:
I'm not postive but I tihnk it is just to draw your attention to the message LOWASH under the PRND21. Low washer fluid or if full the float is tuck or bad.

Ha Ha Ha! I hope so! Just wait until I tell her she has been looking at that stupid blinking light for years just because she was too lazy to refill her washer fluid!

Then I'm going to (somewhat jovially) rip the guys at the shop that usually changes her oil, they advertise topping off the fluids with every oil change... including the washer fluid.

I'll try refilling it first, it is actually empty I had noticed.

Found a carguru notice saying it has something to do with the battery being low or bad terminals. It said to try disconnecting the battery for over 15 min, clean if needed and reconnect to reset.

quote:

2007 Ram 1500 blinking dash light. What is it?

My apologies if anything below is obvious, not trying to be anything but thorough. My assumption is you are a pretty capable person.

Like medic451 noted it is probably the battery.

The battery is the first thing to check. Clean the terminals really well. If you can swap out the battery with a known good one. See if that solves the problem.

Less likely issue.
After that, get an ohm meter, disconnect the battery. Check the lines from the battery to the starter relay, should be at one end of the under the hood fuse box. (sorry brain is rusty) Also, check the run to the starter. Should all read 0 ohms. The connections need to be very clean. Also could be some of the wire is broken near the connection point to the battery. If so cut the cable connector off and put on a new one. Else replace the whole cable, not too expensive but can be a lot of work.

Next: even less likely
There may be a sensor under the battery box new one runs $40-$60. Make sure it is clean, it feeds temperature to the computer that controls how the alternator charges the battery. These sensors go bad over time. Usually ends up overcharging the battery. Thus it is less likely this is the problem on your daughter's truck. (I know the Cummins trucks have them, not sure about the gas ones.)

Other possible reasons.

- Aftermarket stuff tied into the electrical system. Remote start, lights, etc.. Disconnect and see if the light goes off. Given the rebuild.... ugh could be aftermarket headlights etc... even just cheap non-oem. Or could be fancy ones...

- Body Control Modul - BCM could be bad, or the wiring to it could be bad.

- Given that it is a rebuild, there could easily be some bad electrical wires, missing insulation, or just bad connections. A real pain to find the problem... ugh!

Take it to a dealer and have them pull the codes. Local auto parts store might be able to but might not find anything. Can start there if nothing found then try a dealer.

If the dealer pulls the code they can send you in the right direction (maybe). I'm sure it would be a small fortune for them to troubleshoot it (tracing the wiring).



I wish I lived nearby and could come to troubleshoot it with you. I'm not a mechanic just like working on stuff and fixing things, this sounds like fun, especially since its not mine! Well and helping people, not sure why I am here if I can't try to help people.

Please let us know how it goes.

According to the manual online https://carmanuals2.com/d/78973

14. Security Light
The light will flash rapidly for approximately 16 seconds when the vehicle theft alarm is arming. The light will flash at a slower rate after the alarm is set. The security light will also come on for about two seconds when the ignition is first turned ON.

Self destruct light.

Guess I could have also mentioned that it would be a lot less of a ordeal if you bought the upper control arm assembly instead of the upper ball joints and bushings. An OEM assembly can be had for about what the joints & bushings go for at a parts place if you can shop around.

Does the left VFD (odometer reading) stay dark all the time? I've never seen that.

The round gauge in the lower left corner says 'Daddy, buy me some gasoline please.'

On a vehicle with a salvage title, there’s no telling why that light is blinking. Ask your daughter if it has done it ever since she bought it.

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SENTRY KEY IMMOBILIZER SYSTEM

I had a similar sensor fail on my car. Worked 97% of the time. When it didn't, it lock the ignition for 15 minutes. Managed to happen every time I was running late...

Thanks for the info guys, will investigate further and let you know if I find anything. Haven't had the time yet.

I will say that the truck starts and runs perfectly with no noticed issues.

quote:

Originally posted by .38supersig:
Guess I could have also mentioned that it would be a lot less of a ordeal if you bought the upper control arm assembly instead of the upper ball joints and bushings.

Interesting... I paid ~$112.00 for all 4 balljoints combined at Advance auto.

Owners manual ought to be chained to car. I swear, every used car or truck i ever bought didnt come with it. [/rant off]

@mjlennon - I'm trading my 2006 taco in a few days; I just cleaned it out and made sure all the manuals, etc, were in there.

From what I'm seeing online it's the passive security system. Being constantly on, it will drain the battery, which makes it appear like a charging system problem. Replacing or recharging the batt will only fix the symptom temporarily.

Do you open the doors by blipping the keyfob button, or manually turn the lock with the key (which will activate the security system)?

quote:

Originally posted by kkina:

Do you open the doors by blipping the keyfob button, or manually turn the lock with the key (which will activate the security system)?

Didn’t get a fob. Key only.

quote:

Originally posted by cparktd:

quote:

Originally posted by kkina:

Do you open the doors by blipping the keyfob button, or manually turn the lock with the key (which will activate the security system)?

Didn’t get a fob. Key only.

Ah-ha. Then you've no way to deactivate the security system. Wonder how much they are from the dealer.

quote:

Originally posted by kkina:

quote:

Originally posted by cparktd:

quote:

Originally posted by kkina:

Do you open the doors by blipping the keyfob button, or manually turn the lock with the key (which will activate the security system)?

Didn’t get a fob. Key only.

Ah-ha. Then you've no way to deactivate the security system. Wonder how much they are from the dealer.

More than a small piece of electrical tape I bet! She hasn't really complained.