quote:

Originally posted by Aeteocles:
Email several dealerships with the exact car, trim, and options that you want.

Pick the best deal that the internet sales managers have offered you.

Go to the most convenient dealership. Show them the best deal you got in writing. Tell him to beat that deal. Not match it. Beat it.

Show up on 10/30. End of the month puts the most pressure on the sales guys.

Walk away if you have to. They'll chase you. Then they'll give you some BS about how they had to use one of their friends and family discounts.

Then, when it's just about all done, ask for some floor mats or something. Just to really drive it in.

Use the calculator on your phone. They'll try to use some bullshit with monthly payments, interest rates, down payments and trade-ins to confuse you. You can get flustered, or you can just fight back with a calculator. Sure buddy, if they move the monthly payment, fight back and move on the down payment.

I was with you until you recommended going to the dealership too early.

The goal is to do as much as possible from the comfort of home without their high pressure tactics and home turf advantage. Instead of going to the dealership, send everyone an e-mail who responded via edmonds, KBB, Truecar, etc. thanking them for the quote, but inquire if they can do better as others have lower prices. You send this e-mail to EVERYONE even the one who actually had the lowest price.

Once you get that round of quotes back, you can either accept the low one or go for broke and play the two lowest off each other.

It's called a blind reverse auction. You're the auctioneer, it's blind as you're the only one who knows the price, and it's reverse as the price is going down instead of up.

I did that in June '16 when I purchased my Frontier. I got $2500 less than True Car (aka $5500 under sticker and $4000 under Nissan partner discount). It helps if you don't give shit about minor details (i.e. I'll own any color except black) and can do a spreadsheet comparison that makes apples to apples comparison (i.e. $750 option from one dealer isn't a penalty unless it's a $550 option they're overcharging for).

If it's going to be a new vehicle I'd consider using Costco's purchasing program, even if you're not a member. It might be worth it to join. We bought an Outback a few years ago and got the Costco pricing at the local Subaru dealer, just by showing our active membership card. We actually didn't even sign up via Costco. Saved us an additional 2k more than we were willing to pay based on my research...just by showing the card. The sales guy said it was the lowest price they offered on their vehicles. We got to see the entire price sheet for any model we wanted to buy, no haggle at all. And we got all the incentives offered too. At the time, 0.9% financing and a pair of Winter Park season passes.

Just another option in case you're interested.

quote:

I got to see the entire price sheet for any model we wanted to buy, no haggle at all.

A friend is one of the execs at a large automotive dealership chain here in New England. The salesman coming out with the dealer cost price sheet is pretty much bs as there are many other items not reflected in that price. No different that the "dealer cost" sheets for electronics. when my wife worked for Mitsubishi Electric consumer Electronic Div, the "dealer price" was a base and those dealers paid significantly less based on other programs such as bulk purchases.

Years back a Ford employee gave me a PIN code for I believe A pricing. The dealer has no option than to sell for that price. I saw the price and he then beat it.

quote:

Originally posted by rscalzo:

quote:

I got to see the entire price sheet for any model we wanted to buy, no haggle at all.

A friend is one of the execs at a large automotive dealership chain here in New England. The salesman coming out with the dealer cost price sheet is pretty much bs as there are many other items not reflected in that price. No different that the "dealer cost" sheets for electronics. when my wife worked for Mitsubishi Electric consumer Electronic Div, the "dealer price" was a base and those dealers paid significantly less based on other programs such as bulk purchases.

Years back a Ford employee gave me a PIN code for I believe A pricing. The dealer has no option than to sell for that price. I saw the price and he then beat it.

It's the Costco price sheet. Not the dealer price sheet. It's the price all Costco members pay. It's specific to being a member and is required to be shown as part of the program. It's clearly not a "dealer-specific" price sheet as the prices at the lowest they will offer to the member, period. The price was 2500 less than were I was at doing normal negotiations first. I just pulled my card out on a whim knowing this particular dealer near me was part of the program (there's a map on the Costco web site where you could see this).

Anyhow, I'm certain the prices were solid. My invoice on my Outback was 28.5k, before tax. We got stuck negotiating at 26.5k. I would have bought the car for 26k, pretty fair market-up on a Subaru. I paid 24k. They weren't even willing to get me to 26k before I mentioned being a member!!!

quote:

Originally posted by bigeinkcmo:
If it's going to be a new vehicle I'd consider using Costco's purchasing program, even if you're not a member. It might be worth it to join. We bought an Outback a few years ago and got the Costco pricing at the local Subaru dealer, just by showing our active membership card. We actually didn't even sign up via Costco. Saved us an additional 2k more than I was willing to pay based on my research...just by showing my card. The sales guy said it was the lowest price they offered on their vehicles. I got to see the entire price sheet for any model we wanted to buy, no haggle at all.

Just another option in case you're interested.

I’ve been a Costco member since 1976 when it started as Price Club.

Some years ago, my wife was looking to buy a car. I suggested we get the Costco info and follow that. We did. “Call this dealership, speak to Joe Blow. He’ll take care of it.”

When I called Joe Blow and identified myself as a Costco buyer, Joe said “fine, but I can do a better deal than that.”

So, Joe and his dealer were cutting Costco out.

That ad on tv about getting recent sales so you know you are getting a good price is phony. There is no way to collect the information on every car, every combination of options, every color, every purchase form, cash, financed, leased, etc. Dealers don’t report them, aren’t required to report them in that detail and would dissenble if they were so required. It’s a sales scheme, manipulation like everything else.

quote:

Originally posted by JALLEN:

quote:

Originally posted by bigeinkcmo:
If it's going to be a new vehicle I'd consider using Costco's purchasing program, even if you're not a member. It might be worth it to join. We bought an Outback a few years ago and got the Costco pricing at the local Subaru dealer, just by showing our active membership card. We actually didn't even sign up via Costco. Saved us an additional 2k more than I was willing to pay based on my research...just by showing my card. The sales guy said it was the lowest price they offered on their vehicles. I got to see the entire price sheet for any model we wanted to buy, no haggle at all.

Just another option in case you're interested.

I’ve been a Costco member since 1976 when it started as Price Club.

Some years ago, my wife was looking to buy a car. I suggested we get the Costco info and follow that. We did. “Call this dealership, speak to Joe Blow. He’ll take care of it.”

When I called Joe Blow and identified myself as a Costco buyer, Joe said “fine, but I can do a better deal than that.”

So, Joe and his dealer were cutting Costco out.

That ad on tv about getting recent sales so you know you are getting a good price is phony. There is no way to collect the information on every car, every combination of options, every color, every purchase form, cash, financed, leased, etc. Dealers don’t report them, aren’t required to report them in that detail and would dissenble if they were so required. It’s a sales scheme, manipulation like everything else.

You've said the same before, I'm pretty certain. Not sure as to your point, other than to dispute my experience. I'm not making it up. The best price I got on my 2014 Outback at Groove Subaru was via the Costco price. Call and ask them if you don't believe me.

quote:

Originally posted by bigeinkcmo:


You've said the same before, I'm pretty certain. Not sure as to your point, other than to dispute my experience. I'm not making it up. The best price I got on my 2014 Outback at Groove Subaru was via the Costco price. Call and ask them if you don't believe me.

It’s not a matter of disbelief at all, just another episode in the rich tapestry of experiences we gather here to share.

quote:

Originally posted by JALLEN:

quote:

Originally posted by bigeinkcmo:


You've said the same before, I'm pretty certain. Not sure as to your point, other than to dispute my experience. I'm not making it up. The best price I got on my 2014 Outback at Groove Subaru was via the Costco price. Call and ask them if you don't believe me.

It’s not a matter of disbelief at all, just another episode in the rich tapestry of experiences we gather here to share.

Fair enough. I get the point though. Bear in mind, I didn't start with the Costco pricing. Also, maybe they do it different now. No reason not to ask once you think you got a good deal! That’s all I’m really saying.

I have found the "Internet" sales guy isn't as slimy as the lot guys. Do your research on wheat you went and just email them. Any dealer worth his salt these days has an internet sales guy as they know that is a major way people communicate. I got my Tacoma < a year ago and I also ordered it special so my guy knew it was gone the same day it dropped off the transport. So even though he gave me invoice minus 1,000$ I knew he made some $$ cause he kept the holdback

An easy, and far better tool than cars.com and autotrader.com, is cargurus.com. You can select every option you want, search as small or as large an area as you like and see what prices are. From there use the techniques others have mentioned.

-Have reliable transportation going away so if negotiations turn south your not walking at end of week.
-Be prepared not to buy if the deal not good.
-Focus on exact model you want and shop with that in mind but be slightly flexible if a greater savings can be had with slight target shift.
-Share quotes with other dealer anonymously, ie don't tell other dealers name just where they are in relation to others.
-Start on Monday with goal to pickup vehicle or signed contract by Friday

Example: 2 weeks back shopped for 2017 v-8 Dbl Cab reg bed Silverado in WT trim.Started with 4 dealers.

Test Drove @ 1 on Monday am to see if it was worth(barely) going from '06 classic chevy ext cab 5.3l.

Best deal on WT pckg OTD(incl tax,tags admin) 33,000. One higher priced dealer had LT version MSRP $ 43080 for 1000.00 more than best WT trim deal = $34,000 OTD. Deducting GM card pnts $ 2500 netted $ 31,500 OTD. Subtract Taxes, Tags Fees $30,200($32, 700 adding back gmpnts) vs msrp $ 43080

quote:

Originally posted by 95flhr:
Don't let the "invoice" fool you in to thinking that's what the dealer paid. They have hold backs that the dealer will get when the car is sold. Think of it as a rebate to the deal from the manufacturer when they sell the car.

Not exactly true. The hold backs are to cover the financing cost of the vehicle to the dealer. Each manufacturer is different, but when I worked for Ford, the first month was free, then each additional month the dealer had the car and it didn't sell it was like .5% interest that the dealer paid to Ford. Ford/Lincoln Mercury had 3% hold back. But if the dealer had the car 4 months it ate up all of that, plus the dealer has to keep the car washed 2x a week and other expenses. Dealerships have to make money as well to keep the doors open....so a deal at invoice for 1% above it is a very fair deal to a customer.

Anyways, the best way to get a deal is to go to Edmunds and price out the entire car and options and see what invoice price is on the car. Next, look up the incentives there and see what rebates apply. Now figure out what cost should be on the car after deducting whatever rebates apply to your buyer.....then email 4-5 dealers in your area that have the exact car you want and see what their prices are......then if need be go into a dealer with the lowest internet price (obviously from a different dealership) and ask them to beat it.

quote:

Originally posted by msfzoe:
A friend asked me to assist her buying a new car.
She wants a 2017 Toyota Sienna XLE.
How can I determine the best price and how can I achieve it?
Never felt I got a good deal when purchasing a new vehicle.
Have to act before 10-31-17, as zero percent financing expires on 11-1.
Thanks guys.

You might want to verify what I just heard on Fox News about Toyota recalling 300,000 of this model. I missed the details, but it was something about the vehicle coming out of gear and rolling away. I feel certain they’ll solve that problem, but that information could be worth knowing prior to starting your negotiations.