Okay, for better or worse, I'm being drawn into the intriguing world of automatic watches.

I could use the benefit of some experience:

1) What tools do I need to adjust metal watch band links? I have this 5 piece punch set - it's rather cheap and acquired in a pinch. I'm open to getting a high quality punch set. USA, German (EU) or Japan made?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...n_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

2) The new bracelet I'm getting (in transit) I believe uses screws instead of pins. What size are these screws typically? And what should I buy (again USA, EU, Japan)?

3) Is adjusting / regulating a watch something I could learn (not too mech inclined)? Is it complicated and time consuming? Or something an average person could learn? How does one learn - are there books or videos? Could one learn without breaking the watch?

4) If learning to adjust is possible, what tools would I need? Recommendations?

I'd like to start with high quality tools and go down from there. Definitely don't want to start with PRC crap and go up from there. Any insights and recommendations appreciated. I'm open to buying, say, from Amazon Japan if not readily available here. (pay for shipping).

1. depends on the watch and bracelet
2. see 1.
3. Probably not worth it
4. See 1.

Get a quality jewelers screwdriver set.
Quality always means not from China.
I don't know specific brands but a Jewelers forum or our in house jewelry experts can probably chime in and give some good advise.

I bought this strap: https://www.strapcode.com/prod...etal-ss-blc20-blc024

I found what seems to be a few good sites for quality tools. Not sure if they are good and what brand / tools to buy yet. But seems like good sources when I figure it out. If not and/or there is a better site, I'm all ears.

https://www.esslinger.com/
https://www.jewelerssupplies.com/index.html
https://www.eternaltools.com/

I also found tools that seem related to regulating (microphones and such). Very expensive - prohibitive. If it's this expensive and complicated, watch repair it is.

Number three is possible and I've done it. One watch successfully regulated to within a few seconds a day, and the other one, I killed.

It's probably not worth it unless you have multiple automatic watches and have a very steady hand. Touch the hairspring with a screwdriver and you're going to be very mad at yourself. Your only real choice for a timegrapher under several hundred bucks is a PRC unit, specifically, the Weishi from Amazon. It's the one you'll see in basically every watch enthusiast video on Youtube, and it works just fine.

Again, I agree with r0gue, probably not worth it. I however, am driven by an irresistible urge to tinker, or otherwise fuck with everything I own.

Watch the video in my signature line. If you think you're inclined to tinker with watches now, that'll probably seal the deal.

Thanks. Yea, I was leaning toward that rOgue's inputs if these expensive instruments ($400+) are required and it is that complicated. Maybe I'll reconsider if I ever get knee deep in automatic watches like you enthusiasts. If I buy a tool, I don't want PRC - I'd buy a quality one. But for now, seems like I should just go to a watch repair specialist (btw, not sure what I ask them to do - regulate as best they can? regulate to keep +- 5s per day? not sure what to ask them to do.). Not sure what a hairspring is but I'm not sure I could avoid it - my hands and eyesight aren't too steady now.

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:
...if I ever get knee deep in automatic watches like you enthusiasts.

I've owned a lot of watches over the decades. Well over 50. Lots of good stuff, some great stuff, cheaper fun stuff. Vintage. The full gamut. Damn few watches have ever needed anything at all. Maybe three. Four... And a few more than that I proactively serviced. And I just send them to Watchmann, or RGM, or the manufacturers service center.

Thanks. Interesting video. Yea, I'm pretty sure that my eyes and hands no longer have the granularity necessary to do anything inside the case.

I'll stick to adding/removing links in the bracelet. Still need to figure out what brand and size(s) to get. Seems like Horotec and Bergeon are a couple of standard brands (for screwdrivers). Is blue threadlocker indicated for these link screws? Or just finger tight?

Visit Long Island Watch on You Tube. It has a series of instructional videos called "Watch and Learn" that covers things like re-sizing bracelets and what tools are needed and what brands to buy.

Cool. Thx.

I limit myself to changing springbars, so I have a watch vise & a good springbar tool. For everything else, I have a watch guy close to me who is very good & has very reasonable rates.

My Dad was a watchmaker for a while and taught me how to clean, repair and regulate watches.

I don't recommend anyone try it, just go pay someone else to do it so you don't mess up your watch.

I've been tempted to buy a cheapo auto movement on eBay to learn on. But I'm still not DIY'ing any real work on my good watches. Pros only.

quote:

Originally posted by kz1000:
I limit myself to changing springbars, so I have a watch vise & a good springbar tool. For everything else, I have a watch guy close to me who is very good & has very reasonable rates.

Good point. I can change springbars and of course I've done some work with bracelets. I guess what I was saying is I don't crack the case.

For springbars, a Bergeon 6767 is all I use. I have a set of bergeon tweezer style for Rolex bracelets too. A couple of Bausch and Lomb loupes in various power.

I'll screw with anything, except the insides of a H&K PSP and an automatic watch.

I used to have some nice watches. I did all the adjustments to bracelets myself. Finding good tools… Bergeon is the brand I went with.

Amazon has a pretty good selection. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Bergeon

As far as messing with the internals of a quality automatic. Don’t. You don’t change the timing on your car. You take it to a mechanic. You don’t change the air fuel ratio or adjust the wastegate operation. You leave that to a professional. I’m not saying you can’t do it, you very well could. You could also trash a great watch that most likely doesn’t need adjustment.

If your watch is off in the AM when you wake up, store it differently. I noticed on almost every automatic I had, Breitling, Rolex, Jager Lecoultre, Baume & Mercier, all have one thing in common. The will gain or lose time depending on how they are rested. Face up, gained time. Face down lost time. Crown up, it would stay most accurate.

I did have an Omega Aquaterra. Most accurate movement I have owned. Seconds per week, if that. Rarely did it ever need adjustment.

Yeah, as someone who has broken more than a few watches along the way I agree with the previous posts recommended to leave it to the pros when it comes to messing with the movement. It is fun though when you manage to fix one.

Sizing a bracelet on the other hand is easy and the tools are inexpensive enough that you’re better off doing it yourself. Especially if you own a few watches or plan on owning more in the future. Also, if you own bracelets with screws it’s good to have a good set of screwdrivers so you can check and tighten the screws if/when any of them come unscrewed.

Thanks guys. Bergeon it is. For the springbar, I see a 6767 S and F models (standard and fine?). Which one is typical - I'm guessing for my bracelet, S is probably appropriate but not sure.

Strapcode is indicating 1.6mm screws is typical but sometimes 1.4mm and 1.8mm. I may get a set but perhaps 1.6mm to start. Bracelets to date have been pins only, not screws.

I won't touch the case back. Well, maybe someday to just take a look inside. Maybe before taking it to get regulated.

I think I'm gaining about 30s per day. I've worn it daily for several days now and I've started a log. Crown up does seem to help.

Try hand winding the crown about 15-20 rotations in the morning. It might not be operating on a full power reserve. You will get the best accuracy when it’s on a full reserve. Until I got a Orient with a power reserve indicator I didn’t realize how long I would have to sit there and shake it before it reached a full reserve. Hand winding it on the other hand got the reserve up to or close to full power with quickness.

People say not to hand wind watches excessively but on a Seiko or Orient you’re not going to hurt it or add wear nearly like you would on a Swiss ETA 2824-2. I’ve hand wound the hell out of my Seiko and Orient watches and never had an issue.