Still on the fence with figuring out the misfire issue on the Mini, or replacing it.

Was looking at a Subaru Impreza Sport before, and had a Fiesta ST pop up very close by.
Probably be Saturday before I could get a chance to go check it out.

Looks to be stock & the photos present it in good shape. 98k miles, lower/mid trim [no Recaro seats].

Any known major Fiesta issues to know about? Being a 6 spd, it's outside of the powershift automatic issues.

quote:

Fiesta ST

Year? those are nice looking and the ST has about 180 HP, read you can also go for a (Ford-approved) Mountune tuning kit that hikes power to 212hp.

It's a 2017, base trim

That's a lot of miles for a pre-owned turbo car that begs to get driven hard IMO. IF(BIG IF) the previous owner kept up on maintenance I don't think it's a big deal though.

Also Minis are fun and pretty solid cars, you might miss it. I would start poking around the coils/plugs/etc...

quote:

Originally posted by DoctorSolo:
That's a lot of miles for a pre-owned turbo car that begs to get driven hard IMO. IF(BIG IF) the previous owner kept up on maintenance I don't think it's a big deal though.

Also Minis are fun and pretty solid cars, you might miss it. I would start poking around the coils/plugs/etc...

It's cyl 1, I've changed the plug/coil a few times [I have a full spare set] with no change.

POOP.

Injector?

New car?

quote:

Originally posted by DoctorSolo:
POOP.

Injector?

New car?

Injectors, valve seats, all things I don't really want to dive into.

Hence looking at the ST

Well, done but changing money & keys.
Was too late for the bank to send $, should pick it up tomorrow, Friday at the latest.

Car looks like it was taken care of, completely stock, brakes & clutch feel nearly new.

Fiesta ST was absolutely one of the most fun cars I’ve ever owned. And I’ve owned many. You will grin just running down the street, and definitely while on twisty back roads.
Not the quickest. Not the fastest. But still the most fun.
Look at Mountune for mods. I did intercooler and a tune on mine.

quote:

Originally posted by VictimNoMore:
Fiesta ST was absolutely one of the most fun cars I’ve ever owned. And I’ve owned many. You will grin just running down the street, and definitely while on twisty back roads.
Not the quickest. Not the fastest. But still the most fun.
Look at Mountune for mods. I did intercooler and a tune on mine.

Thanks!
Had hoped to drive it home last night, but this dealer doesn't do extended test drives/bailments anymore. A few bad apples spoiled the cart.
Hoping it's ready & can pick it up after work today.

Pics will be required. Need any tips or help for local autocross events, classing, and setup?

quote:

Originally posted by DoctorSolo:
Pics will be required. Need any tips or help for local autocross events, classing, and setup?

Pics to come once I have it home. The dealer already took the listing down.

I'll have to look at what auto-x is still around here in Houston. Need to get some seat time in it before going that route. Was a little jerky with the clutch on the test drive, just need to adjust to it.

My son bought a Focus ST as a reward to himself after his first trip to the Sandbox. That car had the Recaro seats and was a blast to drive!

there was some issue with the engines in those so he eventually sold it. Don’t remember what it was,

Quickie shot swapping cars, it's official.

Looks good.
The optional Recaro seats were 10% of the ST’s sticker price, and worth every penny.
If I were in your shoes, scoring a gently used pair of those would be mod #1.
You feel like you are on a mission every time you buckle in to those seats. The seat warmers are insanely quick to heat up, too.

quote:

Originally posted by VictimNoMore:
Looks good.
The optional Recaro seats were 10% of the ST’s sticker price, and worth every penny.
If I were in your shoes, scoring a gently used pair of those would be mod #1.
You feel like you are on a mission every time you buckle in to those seats. The seat warmers are insanely quick to heat up, too.

I'll have to keep an eye out.
So far, loving it. The 2>3 shift is the jerkiest. Watching RPMs, seem it has the biggest ratio difference. 3-6 are all nice & smooth.

i have a 2019 ST and it is a blast. For me the issue that is a huge giant PITA is the damned Chinese Clutch Slave Cylinder they put in these cars. Bought the car new and at 33,000 miles the shaft seals failed on that slave cylinder and I limped it to the dealer with a clutch pedal stuck almost to the floor. It took 3 1/2 weeks for the dealer to replace that slave cylinder and the service manager kept on trying to get me to replace the full clutch assembly along with the slave cylinder. Because that would have shifted the Remove and Replace costs from the warranty to my pocketbook because the clutch is not a warranty item. Now my car is approaching 61,000 miles and the slave cylinder is going bad again. Having learned from the first go around with this issue I have a length of speaker wire running from the left front "leg" of the seat to the clutch pedal with just the right amount of slack so if the clutch is stuck down I can reach down and use that wire to pull the clutch pedal up. Note I purchased the extended service plan when the car had 48,000 miles on it and being a bit "late" to get with this program I now have powertrain coverage to 108,000 miles. After labor day I'll be going to the dealer and arranging a planned replacement of the clutch cylinder so that I am not stuck without my car for more than a day or two.

Note recommended clutch and timing belt is 150,000 miles but doing this 3000 dollar plus service at about 120,000 miles is just common sense. Note currently R&R for the transmission is probably 1800-2000 dollars at my dealer at present. Back in 2022 when the first slave cylinder needed replacing the cost for the R&R was 1600 dollars.

All good to know, thanks.
Also good to know it's a timing belt engine. Will have to keep that in mind for the future.
How bad of a diy job is that?

quote:

Originally posted by Scooter123:
huge giant PITA is the damned Chinese Clutch Slave Cylinder they put in these cars.

So, had the clutch to floor happen today. Was able to pop it back up.
Did you DIY the slave?

No email in your profile, or I'd have shot you an email.

Guys on the FiST forum are suggesting a fluid flush before going through the slave replacement. Worth a shot.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: P250UA5,

I'm 70 years old so I am not going to crawl under the car for any reason. I check the oil and will do spark plugs when that time comes but anything else gets done by a professional.

The first time the slave cylinder went it was under warranty and you can be certain the dealer had to check everything before pulling the transmission. Which means the master cylinder was flushed and checked and didn't provide a solution. This particular slave cylinder is not just an issue on the Fiesta ST, it's also proven to be an issue with the Mustang 2.3 turbo with manual transmission. Ford purchasing took the cheap route for this part and Engineering never did any durability testing. So now Ford is doing what Ford does best today, pissing money down the drain by the gallon.

I haven't had the clutch done on my car yet mainly because that cable tied to the clutch pedal is providing a solution and the problem is still very intermittent, perhaps only once when running an errand and some days it doesn't stick at all. My plan is to wait until it's bad enough that it will stick when the dealer does a test drive.

As for a DYI approach that is very possible. However you will need a lift so you can get under the car to gain access to everything. I used to pull the transmission on my rear wheel drive cars and it wasn't that difficult to do with the car jacked up. Because back then transmissions were fairly light and small because the bell housing was left on the engine. After that the bell housing was easy peasy because it was only 6-8 bolts and a very light aluminum bell housing. With Front Wheel Drive they are heavier and much bulkier which is why a lift is essential. In addition you have remove a lot of wiring and other crap along with removing the half shafts on each side and I expect getting to those fasteners isn't easy at all.

Final tip is that if you are doing any DYI on your car get a roll of the brightest colored masking or electrical tape you can find, even if you need to go on the net. Because you will want to put a very visible flag on every single wire or hose you have to disconnect. Forget just one of those connections and it will be a real hassle trying to track it down. Also take pictures, lots and lots of pictures. Cars today are a maze of wires with mounting clips on any point available and that transmission will have a lot of clips holding parts of the wiring harness's.

PS; I have looked into what is required to change the timing belt. Which can be done with the engine in the car if you don't have great big forearms. These engines do NOT have a key for the drive sprocket for the timing belt to the crankshaft and to get the timing cover off you will have to remove the bolt holding the accessory drive sprocket and remove that sprocket. This results in the timing sprocket behind the timing cover being loose. As a result you will need to replace that sprocket bolt because it's a TTF one time use fastener. In addition you will also need to purchase special camshaft and crankshaft locking bolts to lock both camshafts and the crankshaft in the correct positions BEFORE loosening that sprocket timing bolt on the crankshaft. Final note on doing the Timing Belt. Purchase a new water pump and alternator to put on your engine at the same time. Because you'll be in deep enough to make replacing those items very easy.

I will also note that in my nearly 60 years of working on engines I have found that water pumps typically fail at 100,000 miles and it's always due to the front seal leaking. If you see a leak at your water pump you may want to consider doing the timing belt at the same time. Because getting to that water pump is probably 2-3 hours of work. I will also note that you will want to purchase a Vacuum Filler Kit for your car right now. Because it's the only way to fill the radiator in these cars if you allow the cooling reservoir get empty. BTW, keep that particular item topped up and check it every week.