So I daily drive my Ford F-250 6.7 Turbodiesel and have for a couple years now, never any issues from hot to cold. Well today in the midwest where I live it's about 30 below 0 with the wind chill, and I went to drive my truck after having it outside for a couple hours at a get together and though it started right up, it immediately went into some low power mode.

I couldn't accelerate past about 15-20 mph and the service engine icon came on. Made it home only a few miles away though something smelled like it was burning (which has dissipated now 30 mins later). Not sure what happened other than maybe due to oil or fuel gumming up?

I use Biodiesel from BP usually when im in town and one of my good buddies always says not to use that as its garbage. He said that may be why it gummed up and that I need to get an additive at least, better yet get diesel number 1 fuel. I get Shell diesel a lot as well so I assume that is better than biodiesel?

Anyway does this make sense to anyone? The truck is a 2020 with only 30K miles and has been meticulously maintained. Garage kept always. Im hoping its just the extreme cold though I feel it still should have been okay.

We have a 2011 w 6.7 diesel, now w 140K miles on it.
Had similar issue years ago and the issue was related to the DEF fluid and/or DEF system. It was JUST after I had filled up w diesel (Not Bio) and went into limp mode, then completely shut off, 2 miles from the house. I’d have been SoL if it had happened on the highway as it would not do ANYthing. Had it towed to the dealer.
I don’t remember exactly but I am sure the repair was north of $1K.
We had repeated issues w the DEF system.

Did you let the engine warm up fully? Also really cold weather can have an affect on diesel fuel. There are additives that condition the fuel for super cold weather. Just brainstorming. I have a Duramax and am in -8 weather. We’ll see how she runs in the am.

When I was in commercial truck parts we used to sell the Power Systems fuel additives, one for gelled fuel and one as a preventative.

If I remember right the red bottle was the one we used for gelled fuel and the white bottle was the preventative one.

Would have let it warm up though I was always told that letting the diesel idle really doesn't help get the engine warm enough to matter. Also mine shuts off after 15 mins of idling not sure if thats a gov emissions thing or safety feature.

It's been minus ball ass cold degrees here for a couple days, had my 2010 ram 2500 in the barn for the duration. I went to start it today and it bogged down super bad on the start very slow going and finally it just quit, belching smoke out the rear. Tried starting again and all the lights went dim, coughed sputtered and died. Hit the glow plugs about 5 times in a row, coughed, belched and quit. Hit the glow plugs a few more times then started it, belched and kicked but finally caught and ran like dogshit, like only one cylinder was firing, rocking blowing smoke. After 30 sec or so, all 6 started to fire but ran like shit, blowing smoke, after about a minute it went into high idle and started running normal, but the check engine light came on.
I let it warm up some and then drove into town to run some errands. It ran normal. Did about 6 or 7 starts and the check engine light finally went out. Ran fine the rest of the day. When those diesel blocks get super cold soaked it's a bitch to get them started. The news had been warning all week about hard starting, but this was next level shit. I just chalked it up to the block being extra chilled.

quote:

Originally posted by LincolnSixEcho:
Would have let it warm up though I was always told that letting the diesel idle really doesn't help get the engine warm enough to matter. Also mine shuts off after 15 mins of idling not sure if thats a gov emissions thing or safety feature.

At super cold temps, the diesel at idle will not generate enough heat to warm up. My truck has a high idle setting that runs it up a couple hundred extra rpms to account for that. I'm sure that's standard on most late model trucks.

You might check - according to articles I've read, BP is using RENEWABLE diesel, not biodiesel. Renewable diesel is fully accepted by all manufacturers. It is not made from oil. Biodiesel usually has both regular diesel and biodiesel blended.

If you're using the renewable diesel, the posts about either using #1 or letting it warm up more might be advised. Some of the additives may make what is essentially #2 work better until you get a bit warmer in the area.

quote:

Originally posted by jeffxjet:
It's been minus ball ass cold degrees here for a couple days, had my 2010 ram 2500 in the barn for the duration. I went to start it today and it bogged down super bad on the start very slow going and finally it just quit, belching smoke out the rear. Tried starting again and all the lights went dim, coughed sputtered and died. Hit the glow plugs about 5 times in a row, coughed, belched and quit. Hit the glow plugs a few more times then started it, belched and kicked but finally caught and ran like dogshit, like only one cylinder was firing, rocking blowing smoke. After 30 sec or so, all 6 started to fire but ran like shit, blowing smoke, after about a minute it went into high idle and started running normal, but the check engine light came on.
I let it warm up some and then drove into town to run some errands. It ran normal. Did about 6 or 7 starts and the check engine light finally went out. Ran fine the rest of the day. When those diesel blocks get super cold soaked it's a bitch to get them started. The news had been warning all week about hard starting, but this was next level shit. I just chalked it up to the block being extra chilled.

did you have it plugged in? (block heater) All diesels have them.

Been super cold here. I have not started my 2002 Dodge Cummins lately. I plugged it in yesterday thinking I might need to drive it before it warms up. But haven't yet.
But it is a must to plug them in imho when it gets very, very cold.

Btw all diesel fuel should be a winter blend for a few months now if you live in a colder part of the conUS.

quote:

Originally posted by old rugged cross:

Been super cold here. I have not started my 2002 Dodge Cummins lately. I plugged it in yesterday thinking I might need to drive it before it warms up. But haven't yet.
But it is a must to plug them in imho when it gets very, very cold.

Btw all diesel fuel should be a winter blend for a few months now if you live in a colder part of the conUS.

Did not have it plugged in, usually it starts right up and has no problems. I plugged it in as soon as I got home though. Dumbass, I know. took me a minute to find the plug though. They had it tucked up good.

I don't think colorado even has summer blend. It's always close to freezing somewhere around here. That's why I didn't worry about it being fuel related.

quote:

Originally posted by old rugged cross:
Btw all diesel fuel should be a winter blend for a few months now if you live in a colder part of the conUS.

While true, the winter blends are good to approximately -30F, which is the temp the OP mentioned (although he mentioned wind chill, which would have no effect on fuel gelling). An additive, like Howe's or similar, will reduce the gel point further. In the meantime, you'll need to get it warmer before it will run again. The gelling happens in the fuel filter first. You can usually take a new filter, fill it with Diesel 9-1-1, and get the vehicle running again.

I have trucked for twenty years now, and have had a truck freeze up twice. Usually, I'll add the additives when I know the temps will be below -20F, as a prophylactic.

When diesel gets really cold, wax crystals form. The wax crystals can clog the fuel filter.

A fuel additive can help reduce the formation of wax crystals. Power Service Fuel Supplement is one such winter Anti-gel additive, is reputable and available everywhere.

What was the actual temperature as trucks don’t care about wind chill?

What did your code reader say? The check engine light means there will be a code that can be read with a code reader. Most auto parts stores will read it for free if you don’t have one.

Had that happen to my 7.3 one year. Early February and my fuel gelled on me. Ford added a return line fuel heater under warranty and all was good. As long as the truck started and was able to warm up my fuel couldn't gel. The heater was run by the coolant and the fuel line running through it to the tank. The 7.3 also had a butterfly in the downpipe that would partially close to build and hold engine heat. If the computer sensed the right conditions, it would close the valve to heat up. When idling, it would close the valve and idle the truck up to around 1200 rpm and sound like a jet engine. It could also close while driving too, but I never noticed it if it ever did it then. I don't know if your truck has that or not.

Sounds like others have had this happen as well so will get the additive today. It’s been in garage all night so it should be considerably warmer than it was. Temp was about -3 I think before wind chill. It was insanely cold though I didn’t feel that it was cold enough at baseline before the wind chill for this to happen. I was wrong. I did read that the wind (with so much snow blowing around) could cause havoc with clogging so maybe that was a factor. Anyway it won’t be quite as cold here today, should be above zero baseline all day so fingers crossed it runs okay and nothing was damaged.

I have an older diesel 7.3 and the first year I had it it gelled up on me. Every year since I started adding a winter additive and I also purchased a cover that I could put in front of the radiator to help keep the cold air from funneling into the engine compartment. It hasn't gelled up since.

To know why your truck went into limp mode, you need to pull the codes. It could be any number of items associated with the exhaust system. From sensors to the DEF.
Lineman

Having had all sorts of diesel trucks for almost 40 years including a F-350 now I’ll share what I’ve done. It may not be for everyone but having had my new diesel freeze up bringing my wife and 6 week old baby to the doctors office for a visit is not something that I would wish on anyone… (this was back in 1988)

1. As mentioned above ALWAYS use an anti-gel fuel additive when it get below freezing no matter what fuel you’re using.
2. Plug in your engine if it’s going to get below 20 degrees.
3. Use synthetic oil in your engine. I use Shell Rotella 5w-40 year round as the engine turns over easier particularly when it’s cold.
4. Let the engine warm up for a couple of minutes before you drive if it’s below 20 degrees or so.
5. When it’s below 20 degrees or so I use a front grill cover like this:
https://realtruck.com/p/fia-wi...ALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

IF you live where there is actual cold weather and you have a diesel you need to become an expert in fuel. Diesel fuel and diesel engines do not tolerate cold well without precautions. So where you buy fuel, what kind is it and how is it treated are all on your list. All fuels are modified to deal with winter. But unless you get fuel from a truly outstanding supplier they won't be able to tell you the cold filter point (that's when its not going through your fuel filters) and so you should just add a fuel pour point reduction additive to all the fuel you get. In real cold areas you may be able to get actual winter fuel and you should use that.
And you need to be meticulous about water. Diesel fuel traps water, it freezes and boom you have no fuel flow. So everything has a water separator in the fuel system. You have to drain it regularly depending on the fuel quality you have.
Back to the OP post. The codes have to be read, but given the circumstances of cold I would assume you have fuel problems. Treat your fuel (it has to get warm for that to work), drain your water, change your filters. And then read the codes that you have. And while most diesels will cold start at pretty low temps these days as smlsig says plug it in if at all possible. But plugging it in is a starting aid, once its running it doesn't solve any of the cold issues.

Still another consideration is getting all the fuel conditioned. For those who seldom drive the truck you might have half a tank of summer blend in there. Adding a half tank of winter blend probably will be ok, most of the time.

When you put Arctic conditions into areas unaccustomed to them you’re taxing everything. Your local station winterizes to what is normal then a bit of safety factor.

Get fuel at a truckstop. Look for a pump that is winterized, it’ll be more expensive, there should be some sort of temperature rating. Read the label thoroughly on your treatment it will require much more for antigel than for “treatment”, 3X is not at all uncommon.

At minimum treat for the old fuel, top off with fresh properly treated fuel.