Page 1 2
Go | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
Go Vols! |
I need to add an outdoor light in the peak over my garage that will be powered full time. I bought the wire, switch box that can be nailed to the studs, and outdoor box to mount and wire the light. What I am curious about is what would be the best way to tap into the house power? This will all be done in the attic over my garage. There are outlets (wall and one ceiling) and light fixtures readily available going inside the garage. I may have one breaker slot empty but that seems like overkill for one led light. | ||
|
| Never miss an opportunity to STFU |
Is it possible to just plug it into an outlet in your garage? When not needed, yank the plug and store until next time. Never be more than one step away from your sword-Old Greek Wisdom | |||
|
Member |
If you already have a ceiling mounted wall outlet, just tie into it in the attic. Easy and done. If you're adding an outside outlet, be sure it is ground fault and weather protected. Demand not that events should happen as you wish; but wish them to happen as they do happen, and you will go on well. -Epictetus | |||
|
| Member |
6 a one half dozen the other I'd think. Not actually knowing how its laid out I'd choose the easier one and make the connection in that box. | |||
|
| The success of a solution usually depends upon your point of view |
I would tie into the ceiling outlet and run the wire directly to the mounting box for the light. Standard warning about making sure you are not overloading the circuit, gcfi, etc.... Unless Jesse comes along and says something different, then I do whatever he says. “We truly live in a wondrous age of stupid.” - 83v45magna "I think it's important that people understand free speech doesn't mean free from consequences societally or politically or culturally." -Pranjit Kalita, founder and CIO of Birkoa Capital Management | |||
|
| That's just the Flomax talking  |
Without knowing the specifics of your circuits, it is hard to say. I try to find a suitable wire run in the attic and mount a juction box where I can tee into the circuit. That usually requires replacing or rerouting one leg of the wiring because the wire will be too short. | |||
|
| Just for the hell of it  |
I find the closet and easiest box/source with constant power and wire it in. Use the same gauge wire as the wire your connecting to. 12 should be on a 20amp circuit and 14 should be on a 15amp circuit. This assumes there are no local codes you need to follow.  _____________________________________ Because in the end, you won’t remember the time you spent working in the office or mowing your lawn. Climb that goddamn mountain. Jack Kerouac | |||
|
Ammoholic |
That is illegal. Can't use plug and cord for permanently installed anything. Jesse Sic Semper Tyrannis | |||
|
| Ammoholic |
This. Garage door opener is easiest to access if you have attic access, if below bedrooms wall outlet is easiest. Can you describe the garage better or take pics? Jesse Sic Semper Tyrannis | |||
|
| Go Vols! |
Your typical attached, finished garage with pull down ladder for attic access. What's the best way to connect the wires at the opener receptacle? Do most outlets have a second set of screw contacts? Seems like there should be something cleaner than wire ties or two wires on the same screw. | |||
|
Member |
Personally, if your breaker box is in the garage (like mine), I'd probably just run the wire across the attic, down through the wall, and into the breaker box to either an un-used breaker (preferable), or another breaker that has space. If you run it to a breaker in the main box, you always have a way to easily shut down power to it if necessary. ----------------------------- Guns are awesome because they shoot solid lead freedom. Every man should have several guns. And several dogs, because a man with a cat is a woman. Kurt Schlichter | |||
|
| Member |
Most have 2 sets, probably some that don't (cheaper). If both sides are used, use a pigtail & wire nut the wires together in the box behind the outlet (2 wires out of box + short section that goes from wire nut to outlet). 2 wires under screw is a no-no. opener is probably easiest to access, but if it's like my garage, all lights & outlets are on same circuit. Make sure you don't overload. | |||
|
| Member |
Most outlets have 2 screw connections, if not replace the outlet with a new one. Illegal and unsafe to have 2 wires under 1 screw. If both screws are used, will need to do a pigtail connection. Take both wires off each side, use a wire connector with a 6 inch piece of wire and the new wire for the new light, and the 2 old wires of the same color in the wire connector. The 6 inch piece goes back on the screw. Do both colors and the ground like this. | |||
|
| Go Vols! |
Thanks all. The motion light uses 50w max and the opener is the only thing in the garage regularly powered. Pretty sure I have multiple circuits in the garage. | |||
|
Security Sage |
I wouldn’t add the circuit to existing screw terminals. Better to pigtail the outlet where you’re tying in and the whip to the new light. If the light doesn’t require a switch, it’s a pretty simple job. RB Cancer fighter (Non-Hodgkins Lymphoma) since 2009, now fighting Diffuse Large B-Cell Lymphoma. | |||
|
| I'd rather have luck than skill any day  |
Not sure I follow, I have some semi permanent installtions thar are simply plugged into an outlet, fridge, freezer, window a/c, solar shades. Some are screwed into the building, others are not; not sure what constitutes permanent or not or why it matters- from a code standpoint? | |||
|
| Ammoholic |
See 1, 2, 4, 5, & 7 from NFPA 70 (electrical code book). 400.8 Uses Not Permitted. Unless specifically permitted in 400.7, flexible cords and cables shall not be used for the following: (1) As a substitute for the fixed wiring of a structure (2) Where run through holes in walls, structural ceilings, suspended ceilings, dropped ceilings, or floors (3) Where run through doorways, windows, or similar openings (4) Where attached to building surfaces Exception to (4): Flexible cord and cable shall be permitted to be attached to building surfaces in accordance with the provisions of 368.56(B) (5) Where concealed by walls, floors, or ceilings or located above suspended or dropped ceilings (6) Where installed in raceways, except as otherwise permitted in this Code (7) Where subject to physical damage I'd add to that the wire ampacity. Most extension cords are 16AWG and rated for 10a, so if it was somehow allowed he'd need a super heavy duty one. Jesse Sic Semper Tyrannis | |||
|
| Ammoholic |
It's a best practice to install a switch for it. If you don't want to fish the wire down the wall, I'd at least put one in the attic. This will allow for you to manually lock the light on, usually off one second, on, off, on and most will stay on until sun up. Helpful if you are having a party so you don't have to go wave your arms in front of it every five minutes. I think we've all played that game before, especially ducks when trying to finish outdoor project. Also if sensor fails you will need to turn off circuit to get light to turn off. Jesse Sic Semper Tyrannis | |||
|
| Go Vols! |
Thanks. I did plan on doing that. I bought a metal switch box with the bracket that can be nailed to the stud. I planned to put it in the attic somewhat near the light. It is one of the Ring camera lights that can be controlled by my phone but I wanted a manual override if absolutely needed it or if it was ever replaced with something different. | |||
|
| Raised Hands Surround Us Three Nails To Protect Us  |
Anything? Garage Door Opener Garbage Disposal Dishwasher Microwave All seem to come to mind in my house. ———————————————— The world's not perfect, but it's not that bad. If we got each other, and that's all we have. I will be your brother, and I'll hold your hand. You should know I'll be there for you! | |||
|
| Powered by Social Strata | Page 1 2 |
 | Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
|
© SIGforum 2024