It wasn't said what kind of wood, but exterior use might be PT. In that case you need specific fasteners for that not common ones. If you absolutely want a nailgun the Paslode is very nice since you can use it anywhere. But its an awful choice for someone who does not use it on a regular basis as they simply don't store well and tolerate infrequent use. IF you want an air powered one the Hitachi is the gold standard as sigcrazy7 said.
But having said that it seems inappropriate to buy a nail gun for a project like this. The vast majority of this kind of work would be way better served by screwing it. GRK screws are what you want and is likely you already own something to drive them with. Lowes and HD will have them.

Yeah, my experience with decks that were nailed together with cement coated and ring shank nails hasn’t been good. I’ve gone around replacing loose nails with screws. It’s a PITA. Any time initially saved by using a nail gun has been more than offset by time spent replacing nails with screws.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:

quote:

Originally posted by smlsig:
Boy there’s a whole lot of misinformation here....

First, unless you in a coastal environment you don’t need stainless fastners. You want to use galvanized nails, preferably ring shank nails. Finish nails don’t have the holding capacity and won’t pass code.

If you don’t already have a compressor and associated hoses etc. I can professionally recommend getting a Paslode gun as it will be lighter and more maneuverable to use. After 15 minutes you’ll thank me. In virtually all manufacturing plants that use nail guns you’ll find Paslode equipment for a reason...they’re dependable.

In a railing situation (not structural framing) 12 gauge nails will work fine. I would recommend 2 to 3 nails at each end.

Here is the nail gun:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Paslo...ing-Nailer/999995972

and here are the nails:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Paslo...tic-Nails/1001221982

Edit to add that I didn’t see any M18 framing nailers but if you can find one go for it. Just use the right nails.

While it's true you don't need stainless if you're not coastal. Screws hold better than ring shank nails and don't ever back out with the expansion and contraction of the wood due to temperature swings and humidity and stainless won't bleed rust and if you're buying them by the 100 pack, stainless self tapping screws aren't that expensive and easy to run them in with either a cordless impact or drill, hence no need to buy a nail gun most people rarely use or a air compressor (which is handy for other things like airing up tires).

Jimmy I get what your saying. I just replaced the third floor deck on my beach house and used SS screws on everything.

From reading the OP’s comment I get the feeling he wasn’t interested in spending $500 on screws. That plus the project is for a front porch which to me means it’s just a few feet off the ground means that the ring shank nails will be fine...

quote:

Originally posted by smlsig:
Boy there’s a whole lot of misinformation here....

First, unless you in a coastal environment you don’t need stainless fastners. You want to use galvanized nails, preferably ring shank nails. Finish nails don’t have the holding capacity and won’t pass code.

If you don’t already have a compressor and associated hoses etc. I can professionally recommend getting a Paslode gun as it will be lighter and more maneuverable to use. After 15 minutes you’ll thank me. In virtually all manufacturing plants that use nail guns you’ll find Paslode equipment for a reason...they’re dependable.

In a railing situation (not structural framing) 12 gauge nails will work fine. I would recommend 2 to 3 nails at each end.

Here is the nail gun:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Paslo...ing-Nailer/999995972

and here are the nails:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Paslo...tic-Nails/1001221982

Edit to add that I didn’t see any M18 framing nailers but if you can find one go for it. Just use the right nails.

Have ever try to pull a heavy galvanized 10d finish nail ? good luck they hold better then a ring shank. 99 percent of them have to be cut off.

quote:

Originally posted by smlsig:
From reading the OP’s comment I get the feeling he wasn’t interested in spending $500 on screws.

Can't imagine why he'd want to spend $300 for a nailer, either, if it's just the one project.

quote:

Originally posted by XLT:....

Have ever try to pull a heavy galvanized 10d finish nail ? good luck they hold better then a ring shank. 99 percent of them have to be cut off.

The problem with finish nails is that they don’t have a head and can’t hold as well as a nail with a head. That is why they are not code approved for this application.

quote:

Originally posted by ensigmatic:

quote:

Originally posted by smlsig:
From reading the OP’s comment I get the feeling he wasn’t interested in spending $500 on screws.

Can't imagine why he'd want to spend $300 for a nailer, either, if it's just the one project.

Just going by what he said...besides why would anyone need an excuse to buy another tool??

Unless it's a narrow shank coil ring nail (8d max length made IIRC), a nail gun shooting common or galv. nails is going to split a lot of your 2x2 (actually 1.5"x1.5") PT ballusters. I won't use nails on decks anymore if any part of them are pressure treated. Southern yellow pine simply moves too much as it dries and weathers. Screws almost exclusively now.

There are still stores that let you buy screws from a bin in bulk by the pound instead of those stupid boxes. We've been buying T20/T25 headed ones in lengths up to 3.5" for <$3.00/lb.

quote:

Originally posted by Blackmore:
Unless it's a narrow shank coil ring nail (8d max length made IIRC), a nail gun shooting common or galv. nails is going to split a lot of your 2x2 (actually 1.5"x1.5") PT ballusters.

I thought that might be, myself, but forwent commenting in favor of somebody with more experience doing so.

quote:

Originally posted by smlsig:
Boy there’s a whole lot of misinformation here....

First, unless you in a coastal environment you don’t need stainless fastners. You want to use galvanized nails, preferably ring shank nails. Finish nails don’t have the holding capacity and won’t pass code.

If you don’t already have a compressor and associated hoses etc. I can professionally recommend getting a Paslode gun as it will be lighter and more maneuverable to use. After 15 minutes you’ll thank me. In virtually all manufacturing plants that use nail guns you’ll find Paslode equipment for a reason...they’re dependable.

In a railing situation (not structural framing) 12 gauge nails will work fine. I would recommend 2 to 3 nails at each end.

Here is the nail gun:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Paslo...ing-Nailer/999995972

and here are the nails:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Paslo...tic-Nails/1001221982

Edit to add that I didn’t see any M18 framing nailers but if you can find one go for it. Just use the right nails.

SMLSIG, is this the correct gun and nails to fasten little 2x2 nominal treaded pine ballusters, used as pickets, to 2x4 top and bottom horizontals ? I see this is a "framing" nailer, so I'm thinking that framing nailer is for nailing house and shed structural members like load bearing walls and such like 2x4s, 2x6s, 2x10s etc. So is this gun you're recommending appropriate for my intended use, or do I need a gun that would shoot smaller nails into these small balusters, like a finish nail gun ? Just neeed clarification and confirmation.

And fyi for everyone else, I would use this gun for similar projects that come up more or less all the time. I'm a DIY type.

quote:

Originally posted by wrightd:
And fyi for everyone else, I would use this gun for similar projects that come up more or less all the time. I'm a DIY type.

Well, that's a different story, then. I've got one project in progress and two in the pipe where a framing nailer will be necessary (*). If it'd been only one, I'd have borrowed my neighbour's.

But, still: I'd argue nails are not optimal for the application we're discussing. Nails are great for shear loads (load perpendicular to the axis of the nail), but less so as the load approaches the axis of the nail. Ring shanks help with this, but screws are still superior. (And see "removal," below.)

Now consider your baluster application. The idea is to keep those balusters firmly anchored to the top and bottom rails. The nails may be fine at first (assuming they don't, as Blackmore suggested, split the 2x2's, which I suspect they may). But, over time, that wood is going to move, because that's what wood does.

Secondly: Should you ever find yourself having to replace any of those balusters, the screws will probably be easier to remove w/o damaging the rails than would be the nails. Especially if you use ring shank nails.

I love my nail guns, and no mistake. But I would not use nails for this application.

(*) I say "necessary" because I've never been able to reliably drive nails straight with a hammer to save my soul. Particularly overhead.

Just saw this at Home Depot - <6 hours left if you still want one.

https://www.homedepot.com/Spec.../SpecialBuyOfTheDay?