Thanks a lot guys. I think the load capacity per the webpage is 355lbs: Load Capacity: 355 lb / 20' canoe or kayak. http://maloneautoracks.com/Mic...nd-Retr.-Tongue.html

I like the concept of easy, simple and light (easy to take on/off). The load will be just whatever my wife and I can lift onto the trailer so probably 150 lbs max. Mostly concerned about dynamic weight (ie the 150 load is bouncing on the trailer and putting pressure spikes on the platform).

I just have no idea what the load bearing capabilities are of wood - 2x6 or 3/4" plywood. So, the benefit of your knowledge above is fantastic and helpful.

Like already said. I would use 3/4 treated plywood. Except I would remove the racks, secure the plywood permanently to the frame, using small carriage bolts, then remount the racks using the existing u bolts. From the pictures the u bolts holding the racks look long enough..

quote:

Originally posted by hvyhawler:
Like already said. I would use 3/4 treated plywood. Except I would remove the racks, secure the plywood permanently to the frame, using small carriage bolts, then remount the racks using the existing u bolts. From the pictures the u bolts holding the racks look long enough..

Ahhhh. That's an interesting idea. 3/4" plywood is strong enough to handle a bouncing 200 pound load like a small dining table, etc?

How many pounds is that trailer rated for? One of the best things I ever did years ago as a home owner was buy a utility trailer that was 3500 lbs rated.

355 pounds I believe. I would only use this for small things that I can lift.

For bigger stuff, I will rent a trailer from U-Haul.

My simple mind this evening asks, "ratchet straps and an old pallet?"

quote:

3/4" plywood is strong enough to handle a bouncing 200 pound load like a small dining table, etc?

yes. but it shouldn't be bouncing as you are going to secure it. Here's a simple update to my original design. Make four small cross pieces and screw them to the plywood one on each side of the cross bars. will prevent the plywood moving in the fore and aft direction, then you can get by with a two ubolts rather than the 6 I had suggested earlier making removal easier. Given the loading you are suggesting I would make the plywood less than a full sheet.

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:

quote:

Originally posted by arfmel:
Remove kayak racks. Attach planks held down with u-bolts same way as kayak rack is held down. Or, much simpler to do, 3/4” plywood cut to size.

Trying to avoid removing the support frames that hold the kayaks. It's kind of a pain to install those and also I'll need to keep replacing the nylon locking nuts. I can do that if it's the right way to go but would prefer to avoid that if a I can.

But sounds like you guys are saying that wood and U-bolts are the way to go.

Just put 3/4" plywood right on top of the support frames and 4 U-bolts from the plywood to the support frames, each just inside of the upright supports that way the plywood won't slide from side to side.

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:

quote:

Originally posted by hvyhawler:
Like already said. I would use 3/4 treated plywood. Except I would remove the racks, secure the plywood permanently to the frame, using small carriage bolts, then remount the racks using the existing u bolts. From the pictures the u bolts holding the racks look long enough..

Ahhhh. That's an interesting idea. 3/4" plywood is strong enough to handle a bouncing 200 pound load like a small dining table, etc?

This is the correct answer. Sheet of good plywood is probably $40-$50. Cut it to match the shape with a jig saw. Attach at a few points with carriage bolts and some loctite. Reattach the kayak supports.

If you are up for a little drive we can do it at my place in Modesto, if we can get our schedules to mesh. All you’ll need to buy is wood and bolts/nuts/loctite.

Whatever you do, please post a picture when you're done.