I want to extend the purpose of my kayak trailer so that I can haul some small things. For example, I want to take my old massage chair to the dump - the chair won't fit into my SUV.

I'm trying to figure out a way to install a (wood?) platform onto my trailer between the kayak support rods. Either something relatively permanent or something that I can install / remove quickly (just for hauling, not for when I use the kayaks). If I remember correctly, it's about 48" between the kayak support rods.

I'm going to show a picture to the guys at HD to see if they have any suggestions - how I can affix 2x6(?) boards to the trailer frame.

But you guys always have great suggestions that most people don't consider.

Here's my trailer again:
http://maloneautoracks.com/ima...0Retracted%29-01.jpg

U bolts and deck screws.

Remove kayak racks. Attach planks held down with u-bolts same way as kayak rack is held down. Or, much simpler to do, 3/4” plywood cut to size.

quote:

U bolts and deck screws.

Thanks - so just drill holes through boards? I finally bought a drill so I can do that.

2x6 boards is a good size? Can I go with larger? Or should I go smaller (2x4)? Just need something that will handle up to a 200 lbs while bouncing on the trailer.

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Originally posted by arfmel:
Remove kayak racks. Attach planks held down with u-bolts same way as kayak rack is held down. Or, much simpler to do, 3/4” plywood cut to size.

Trying to avoid removing the support frames that hold the kayaks. It's kind of a pain to install those and also I'll need to keep replacing the nylon locking nuts. I can do that if it's the right way to go but would prefer to avoid that if a I can.

But sounds like you guys are saying that wood and U-bolts are the way to go.

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Originally posted by walkinghorse:
U bolts and deck screws.

Sorry - I can see how to use the U bolts to fasten boards to the trailer frame.

What do I use the deck screws for?

Deck boards and flat head drill screws (#12 or 1/4") Hilti or Elco are the go to brands. I'd get the finer thread version instead of the spaced threads. You can get them in stainless (400 grade) so they are safe with the pressure treated deck boards. I would still recommend drilling a pilot hole, despite the drill point on the screw.

Ken

I would build a platform that you could lift off as a single piece. Simple 2x4 frame with 1/4" or 1/2" marine grade plywood for the top and maybe 2 or 3 1"×1" stringers. Build it such that the outer frame fits just outside the kayak support bars so the stringers rest on them. I would then attach 4 eye bolts to the open holes just under the support brackets on the trailer's uprights. I would add 4 corresponding eye bolts to the platform frame and use turnbuckles to secure the platform to the trailer via the eye bolts.

Hardware like this should be easy to find at a local home improvement store.

https://webriggingsupply.com/p...vD_BwE#iLightbox[]/0

Ubolt 2x4s to the existing kayak crossmembers. Install deck boards - 5/4x6 or 2x material - perpendicular to those with 3" deck screws. Leave ubolts exposed for easy on/off unless you need more width.

I would think a 3/4 plywood board would do everything you need, as long as you are not hauling really heavy stuff.

Cut a board to fit between the support frames
you can leave it square or trim to match trailer rails.

Drill holes through plywood into frame, bolt up to frame with lag bolts and nylocks with large washers under the frame you could leave it on all the time if you want or unbolt it and use as needed.

Awesome. Thanks all. I think I can visualize most of this. TXJIM - sounds like your suggestion is a good long term solution - easy on and off. I just can't visualize what this looks like. I need to look up strings, turnbuckles and how eye bolts fit into this.

I'm only planning to load up to 150-200 lbs - something that my wife and I could lift (maybe with one more person). But concerned about dynamic weight. 3/4" plywood board would be simple but would it hold the weight (not sure what it would support)? I could do 2x4s with plywood on top to help distribute the weight - more complex and heavier to lift on/off. But whatever it takes to bear the weight.

I also need to figure out what type of load would make it too top heavy (risk turning the trailer over). For example, the chair is heavy but lower center of gravity. A table of the same weight but with all the weight in the table top - would that risk tipping over the trailer? Is there a good rule of thumb of center of gravity vs trailer width or something?

Allow for the swelling and contraction of the lumber if exposed to wet weather. Bolts hold better than screws.

Carry the table with the top down, padded with a blanket.

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Originally posted by arfmel:
Carry the table with the top down, padded with a blanket.

Thanks, yea I was thinking that if possible. But sometimes not easy to do. Unless I disassemble the table I guess.

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:

quote:

U bolts and deck screws.

Thanks - so just drill holes through boards? I finally bought a drill so I can do that.

2x6 boards is a good size? Can I go with larger? Or should I go smaller (2x4)? Just need something that will handle up to a 200 lbs while bouncing on the trailer.

I would go with 2x6 boards! Once installed many "new" uses will be found!! BTDT!

Then if you need a platform, just take a piece of 1/2, or 3/4 plywood and screw it down to the 2x6s.

I'd go with wood and mount permanent. Maybe use 2x10" on the outside so it would square up with the curve in the frame. the aluminum cross member looks to be about2" high so you would have a fairly level floor. Put a d ring tie down on each corner and get a set of good ratchet straps and you'll be mobile.

If you can back that trailer straight, a boat trailer would be a piece of cake. I've got a 5x8 tilt tr and I can back it ok, given enough tries, but a short tr is easy to jackknife, My trick is to always pull forward a little further than you need to and keep my hand on the bottom of the steering wheel. Want the tr to go to the right - push the steering wheel to the right.

I think you guys are all overthinking and way overbuilding this one. This is a very small and light trailer. 2x6? 2x10? The suggested load is like 200lb. I would get a sheet of 3/4 exterior plywood and 6 u bolts (3 per kayak rack) and mount it up. Take about 30 minutes tops to make the first time, less if you actually own power tools. Removable in less than 10. Completely reusable. Add a couple of simple eye bolts on the edges for tiedowns and good to go. If necessary cut the plywood to be smaller length (HD will do that for free) to match trailer length.

quote:

Originally posted by hrcjon:
I think you guys are all overthinking and way overbuilding this one. This is a very small and light trailer. 2x6? 2x10? The suggested load is like 200lb. I would get a sheet of 3/4 exterior plywood and 6 u bolts (3 per kayak rack) and mount it up. Take about 30 minutes tops to make the first time, less if you actually own power tools. Removable in less than 10. Completely reusable. Add a couple of simple eye bolts on the edges for tiedowns and good to go. If necessary cut the plywood to be smaller length (HD will do that for free) to match trailer length.

I agree. Keep it simple and light. Easy to attach and remove. If you want a heavy duty set up, buy a trailer made for this kind of work. Also, if this particular trailer carries any kind of warranty, find out of the mods will violate it.

What’s the axle rating on the trailer? A platform built out of 2x6s added to the weight of the existing frame plus whatever you load on it may spell trouble.

If you don't cut the plywood to fit the curve of the frame the unsupported edge will warp. Sure it will work if you take it on and off but that's a hassle. That's an attractive trailer. Use 2" (1 3/4") and stain it and you've got something. Or use cedar deck/fence boards. light weight and weatherproof.