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 . Anyone who enjoys hanging drywall actually gets paid for it.___________________________________________ "Why is it every time I need to get somewhere, we get waylaid by jackassery?" -Dr. Thaddeus Venture | |||
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I'll admit I'm a little old school but at 62 and having built many houses and been in and around the residential construction business since I could walk I stand by what I said as for the norm here. However... I am in the moderate climate of Tennessee. I know what is standard practice here, for conventional residential construction, but I admit I have no knowledge of other climates or the newer extremely energy efficient houses and they may very well utilize different approaches.Collecting dust. | |||
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What you decide to use it should be fire resistant. Cheap drywall or more expensive Hardy Board. | |||
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W07VH5 |
It is a good point. 1/4"? Since I'm not going for looks, do I still need to mud and sand the seams? | |||
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Ammoholic |
Most of the replies here are incorrect. You need to install 5/8" fire rated drywall to meet building codes. You can not make the walls of flammable materials. If you need to hang things from the wall put up wood, then drywall or put 2x4s between studs if you know exactly where you need to mount things. Another trick which will help both hanging drywall and mounting things later. Make a mark on concrete in front of each stud, then use later as reference point for attaching drywall or shelving. Don't use wood, if you sell your house and have a smart home inspector you will need to remove it or cover in 5/8" fire rated drywall to sell. Might as well do it to code to start with. Jesse Sic Semper Tyrannis | |||
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Member |
If I were to build another garage I would at least partially clad the interior walls with fire retardant slatwall. It makes it so much easier for storage. No finishing, painting, etc and a very flexible storage system CMSGT USAF (Retired) Chief of Police (Retired) | |||
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My hypocrisy goes only so far |
Dry wall, if you bang it, ding it , or punch a hole in it , it's easy to fix. You can also toss on some trim & paint, maybe some comfy seating.... LoL !    U.S.M.C. VFW-8054 III% "Never let a Wishbone grow where a Backbone should be "  | |||
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Go to WWW.Garagejournal.com. The board is dedicated to building shop type buildings. Almost every question you will have will be covered, most with pictures. Regards, Kent j You can learn something from everyone you meet, If nothing else you can learn you don't want to be like them It's only racist to those who want it to be. It's a magazine, clips are for potato chips and hair | |||
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| W07VH5 |
The wainscoting is certainly attractive. | |||
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| W07VH5 |
I'll probably just go with french cleats but I get the idea. | |||
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Certified All Positions |
I started doing it "old school," in fact, particularly with renovation/repair, often things have to go back in similar fashion anyway. It works well enough. Climate and any temperature extremes are one part of it, but the reason that the construction of the type we'd consider "standard" works, is that it's somewhat leaky and that allows it to dry to one side or the other. The code standards are just creeping every year to be more stringent, r19/20, air sealing standards, more. With the products available now, it's easy to get very close to air tight, then the issue is actually separating interior and exterior temp, inside the wall itself. Air changes that used to happen just because the house was leaky, need to be done with vent systems now. Arc. ______________________________ "Like a bitter weed, I'm a bad seed"- Johnny Cash "I'm a loner, Dottie. A rebel." - Pee Wee Herman Rode hard, put away wet. RIP JHM "You're a junkyard dog." - Lupe Flores. RIP | |||
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Install a vapor barrier and then drywall. Hanging stuff later is easy, if you use the studs to attach your shelving/pegboard. | |||
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| Just because you can, doesn't mean you should |
Slightly different subject. I put in 20 amp, 4 outlet boxes and more than you might think you want. Cheap to do before the walls are closed in. They are at least 36" above the floor too. ___________________________ Avoid buying ChiCom/CCP products whenever possible. | |||
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I'd use plywood. Here we leave a 1" gap between the plywood and the floor. Then just nail a synthetic baseboard along the bottom, can caulk the seam along the bottom where the baseboard meets the floor if you wish. This will allow you to rinse the floor or if you have some water intrusion the drywall will not get wet. That's how my garage was done when the house was built in 1966. | |||
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I would never use any type of wood product on the walls. Us guys do all sorts of things in our garage. We store everything including gasoline in the garage. There is some good information posted and some not so good IMHO. Even if the garage is not attached to your house "do not" use any flammable material. | |||
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| W07VH5 |
Yeah, it looks like I'm gong to chat with my insurance agent and then go with fire-resistant drywall. I hope they don't make me fill and sand the joints though. I did tell my agent that I have business equipment in the garage but they still put the garage insurance in the homeowner policy. | |||
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Keep a 1" air gap between the dry wall and the floor and then use a 4" synthetic baseboard along the bottom finish nailed to the drywall/studs. This will keep any water or just moisture from wicking up the drywall from the concrete slab. My entire house is done this way, the drywall does not touch the concrete slab and the baseboards cover the gap so you don't see it. I can't remember how much inside the gap is but it's at least 1/2" from the concrete slab to 1" and all of the original 1966 drywall and all of the walls are perfect. | |||
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