I'm putting my new drill press on a mobile stand. To that end: I've cut a 2 ft. x 2 ft. piece of birch cabinet grade 3/4 in. plywood, primed it, and painted it with colour-matched exterior latex paint.

I just finished the painting last night. I'd like to assemble the drill press Monday or Tuesday and put it on the stand. But I understand latex paint takes 2-4 weeks to cure completely. I would prefer not to have the hardware adhering to the paint, if possible. (Though I expect never to remove the DP from it, nor the board from the mobile stand. Still...) And I'd like the finish to be resistant to oil and so-on.

It was suggested to me I could improve the abuse resistance of the paint job by spraying it with clearcoat. (Perhaps Rust-oleum 2x Ultra-Cover clear?)

Is it possible to clearcoat latex paint in this way. If so: How long should I wait after the last coat of latex, and how long until it's safe to work with the piece after I apply the clearcoat?

I'm doing the painting in a room that's running ±70°F, with humidity ±50%. The result will go in an unheated, uninsulated garage.

I have done a fair bit of rattle can painting and other types around the house/garage.

I would test it out on something different to make sure the clear coat doesn’t bubble the latex. I would also be careful you don’t trap moisture from the latex paint that would normally cure out, under the clear coat. You could end up with a base coat that never cures.

May be too late, but if you have another piece of that plywood, I would use an epoxy coating on it. Sherwin Williams makes a great coating made for concrete floors, that would work well on wood. There is also stone Coat. They make a pretty damn durable product. Both of those options would be fully cured in 24 hours.

quote:

Originally posted by Beancooker:
I would test it out on something different to make sure the clear coat doesn’t bubble the latex.

I actually have my first, aborted, attempt, using the same latex paint on an exterior grade wood, that I could use for experimentation. The paint's been cured on that for a lot longer, though.

quote:

Originally posted by Beancooker:
I would also be careful you don’t trap moisture from the latex paint that would normally cure out, under the clear coat. You could end up with a base coat that never cures.

That is another of my concerns.

quote:

Originally posted by Beancooker:
May be too late, but ...

Yeah, far too late. I've already burned one piece of wood on this project. I do have another piece of the cabinet grade stuff, as it came in a 2'x4' piece, but I'm not going to spend another piece of wood on what is, after all, just a mobile stand for a drill press that's going to be in the garage.

I've already blown far more time and money on this silly little project than would any sane individual.

Thanks for the follow-up and suggestions, BC. I probably should have asked, here, in the first place.

I would wait at least 5 more days before clearing it. Look at the latex can and see if it can be clear coated. If I was going to clear, I would've used a Eurethane paint and Eurethane clear, as I don't know anything about clear coat over latex.

quote:

Originally posted by ensigmatic:


I've already blown far more time and money on this silly little project than would any sane individual.

Nah, that’s the stuff we do for fun. Make a $1000 table to hold $100 saw. It really is what makes life enjoyable.

Someday I’ll tell you about helmet painting. Want to really waste some money, start with an Arai or Simpson helmet.

quote:

I've already blown far more time and money on this silly little project than would any sane individual.

How many of us have done this over and over? I remember buying a Ruger MKIII for about $400. By the time I was done putting custom grips, etc. on it, I was in about $800 deep. Your project, your money, your satisfaction! That's what counts!! Good luck!

I question why clear coat it all.
I certainly wouldn't worry (if I understand it right) about the bottom of a tool on a stand especially if it is a permanent installation.
Secondly, latex (house paint I assume) can be very easily scraped off of metal.
Lastly, the latex point on a soft (wood) substrate is likely not a very permanent topcoat solution.
I wouldn't waste my time with a clear coat that won't do anything anyway.
YMMV
Good Luck
PS... lets see a pic of what you have in mind.

Not exactly the same but...
My daughter specified a flat finish on her walls when I remodeled her kitchen, including the backsplash area. I new that flat latex would not resist grease and grime or clean up well. I had seen the idea to overcoat with a clear coat. I used two coats of a brush on non yellowing clear exterior flat latex varnish like for outdoor wood furniture etc and it worked fantastic. It didn't change the color or shine to any noticeable degree and it is tougher and much easier to clean than the flat interior latex wall paint. Four years later it still looks like new.

In your case I would probably just leave it a it is now.

quote:

Originally posted by smschulz:
PS... lets see a pic of what you have in mind.

Don't have any photos, yet.

It's a "universal" mobile base, which is a set of corner pieces connected by adjustable-length rails. Two fixed wheels and two casters that can be raised to make it immobile, or locked down to make it mobile. The 2'x2' piece of wood will be bolted to that and the DP base bolted to the wood.

It has two purposes: Make the DP mobile, so it can be moved away from the wall if I want, and to increase the DP's footprint for improved stability.

I probably won't bother with the clearcoat.

Thanks for the feedback, everybody!

I assume that
a) this is veneer both front and back?
b) you primed and painted both sides?

Why not just scrape/sand one side and start over?

Adding to that - not sure why you'd sacrifice a piece of cabinet grade birch for a work surface, and then cover it with latex. Doesn't that kinda defeat the purpose of using an attractive wood?

quote:

Originally posted by motor59:
Why not just scrape/sand one side and start over?

Mainly because: 1. I don't want to invest more money in what is, after all, only a piece of wood upon which to fasten a drill press base and 2. Because I want it to be done.

quote:

Originally posted by motor59:
Adding to that - not sure why you'd sacrifice a piece of cabinet grade birch for a work surface, and then cover it with latex.

Primarily for the lack of voids. As I'm sure you're aware: Plain old construction grade plywood is often riddled with voids. If one of those voids should happen to fall right where I wanted to fasten a bolt, well...

From making a whole lotta equipment bases over time, I would have told you to avoid painting the top of the base all together. Your best solution is always to use a piece of Formica (or similar) on top of the base. Offers great abrasion and solvent protection that paint can't match. As to clearing your painted base top, I wouldn't waste the time or money.