quote:

Originally posted by old rugged cross:
The longer they run the better it is. Running does not hurt them. The stopping and starting (cycling) is what will kill them.

^^^^ This applies to most things, like HVAC equipment, refrigeration, gas engines, etc.
Stop and go not only wears equipment out faster, but also cost more to operate.

Myers was usually the pump of choice around north Georgia years ago. I remember the Myers sweetheart lightning protector that came in a box like a deck of cards.
No on line experience with supply houses. Grainger supply does sell the Flint & Walling brand along with their own Dayton brand.

SC. that page is not by a pump manuf. Jet is like "lets make a deal" game show. Not legit in my mind. like Goulds, Grundfos, Red jacket, Myers, Flint and walling, Sta-Rite, etc. They all manufacture the pump end and offer it with Franklin motors and controls and in some instances have their own motors. But Franklin has always been the standard
.
I am still sure Franklin Elect. is not making their own liquid end. But we can agree to disagree.

quote:

Originally posted by old rugged cross:
I think I am due to replace. it is 15 years old now. A 2hp I believe.

2HP would be a helluva submersible pump. Ours is 18 GPM and it's only 1HP. (It's a Gould, btw. And my well guy says they're still the best.)

quote:

Originally posted by old rugged cross:
Anyway my volume and pressure are down. Still pumping some water. But fear I am on my last leg.

Volume being down could be the point, but pressure...? Hmmm...

quote:

Originally posted by old rugged cross:
I could call a pump dealer and have him come check and replace. But we do a lot of our own work here.

Only problem is...

quote:

Originally posted by old rugged cross:
The well is just shy of 250' With the pumping level at around 225'.

I try to do all that I can, myself, too. But a man's gotta know his limitations If it's more than just the pump on its last legs, and that well point is down 250', not letting a pro handle it could result in a trashed well.

Even then: When the 2" jet well that was here when I bought the house started failing, my well guy said "I could try pulling the well point, but my experience is a jet well that old, with a failing point, the point will probably just disintegrate. Then you'll be paying me for a failed repair attempt and a new well." We had him just put in the new well.

From some of your comments I assume you've already checked the expansion tank. As I'm sure you're aware, a failing bladder can seem a lot like a failing pump or well point. I thought one of those was going on our twenty-year-old well, but it only turned out to be a leaky bladder. Replaced the tank and all's well. (Went up another size to reduce cycling, while we were at it.)

Somebody, don't recall who, told me his new well doesn't even have an expansion tank. Seems they've new pump tech out. The pump senses back-pressure and automatically adjusts its rate to maintain constant pressure.

If volume and pressure are down, my first thought would be the bowls (sp?) may be tired. Unless you are going to pull and reset the well yourself, there is significant cost in having someone else do it. I’d prolly just replace the whole unit, motor and all. The three wells we have on the ranch have Franklin motors in them, not sure which pump manufacturer.

The two wells I pulled with the excavator were alluvial wells, set around 100’. I’d think it could be done with a backhoe, but it would probably get more than a little tedious, and there is always the risk of losing the line if something goes wrong. There are advantages to having someone with the right tools do it rather than MacGivering it...

Thanks for the additional thoughts guys.

The pump is still providing water at pressure.

Yes the pressure tank is a possible culprit.

We do not have a high demand for domestic water. I have filled a couple of coolers that we can use for general use, drinking and animal water. Trying not to have to turn on the faucet any more than necessary in case the PT is shot.

Will get in the crawl space tomorrow to have a look.

Troubleshooting a bladder pressure tank

In our case it was easier: It was making a weird noise our pump guy identified immediately as a leaking bladder

I'm on the board of our community water system. One of our deep wells is on my property. Our pump is going out too, down about 100,000 gallons per month the last few months. We're pulling it in a few weeks. 950 feet, 5 hp. Cost between 5k - 8k. Glad it's not on my dime.

ok guys. Did the trouble shooting today. From what I can tell the tank is fine, not waterloged. Pump cycled fine based on the gauge and pressure switch on at 30 and off at 50psi. Gpm seemed good. The pump is a 1-1/2hp 12gpm model. I do not know the brand. The control box is a GE with and integral disconnect switch.

The problem I diagnosed is in the irrigation system. Which my original conclusion was it is a pumping eq. problem. No I think I have a bad irrigation valve along with a broken line.

A few months ago we drove a large backhoe over the yard removing and setting a new hot tub. My wife reminded me of that. I have not noticed a soft spot persae but know I have identified a suspect spot.

As of right now I think the pump system is ok. It has been flawless for 15 years so we will see going forward. I will be working on the irrigation in the upcoming week and we'll see if it is in fact the problem.

I want to thank you all for your valuable input.