So my 90's Chevy pickup is sluggish to start. The crank is consistent, but not robust. Been like this for over a year. Does not really seem to worsen. Seem's to hesitate a bit more when you first crank when it is warm. Both outside temp and vehicle.

I was thinking my starter might need rebuilding.
Had it in the shop and they said they tested the battery and it said 36 cranking amps
Battery is rated for 800 cca.

So my question is do I have a bad battery. Could it be my alt. Or is the starter weak.

They just wanted to sell me a new battery

Thoughts?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: old rugged cross,

If the alternator was gone then your battery would be dead because there would be nothing charging it, and you'd get no crank at all. If the alternator is in the process of dying but not dead yet, you'll see it as a low current rate or a low battery voltage depending on whether you have a voltmeter or ammeter in your dash.

36 cca sounds pretty close to being dead. That would account for the sluggish cranking. You'll probably notice it more on cold mornings - cold air is harder on weak batteries that strong ones. How old is the battery? They don't last forever, after a few years they'll start to behave like what you're seeing.

The other thing you should check is the condition of the battery and starter connections. If they get corroded and/or loose, it will limit the amount of current you're getting to the starter.

As long as the truck is still running, I'd go to any auto parts store and pick up a new battery. They're not terribly expensive there (a dealer will always charge you more for it than NAPA or O'Reilly will. If you wait until the battery dies completely, then you have the problem of how to get the truck to the shop to get it replaced. If you do it now, you can swap the battery out yourself and avoid the tow and labor expense.

Put a charger on the battery and see if it charges up any better than it does with just the alternator.

How old is your battery? 5 or more years; I'd go ahead and replace it.

36 cranking amps might, at most, make your dome light glow faintly. I think some better testing methodology is needed. Specifically, a battery load test (actually putting it under load, not just calculating it), a charging system test that includes peak amp output and diode "ripple," a starter current draw test and maybe voltage drop testing. People that have all this are hard to find, however.

quote:

Originally posted by egregore:
I think some better testing methodology is needed. Specifically, a battery load test (actually putting it under load, not just calculating it)

A quickie load test we used to use way back when, and granted not very precise, but a rough idea, was with the engine off, turn the key on (not crank), then turn on the headlights. They should stay on. If they go dark, the battery is way low.
 

You can also pull one end of the coil wire, and crank the starter. It should turn over very well with no drop in speed for 15+ seconds. If the speed goes down noticeably, the battery is weak.

People who let their vehicles stay in a slow to start condition usually wear out the starter. However this is more of a tune up matter. Best to fix the underlying problem without delay than to burn out a starter.

Thanks guys, that all helps. I am going to my shop and spend $120 for a Delco. They will install and check the system.

On the topic of a cheap battery in my other thread. I did buy a cheapish Walmart everstart for my Toyota pickup and so far no issues.


Batteries in general now are a real crap shoot imho. An expensive one is not a sure deal that it will out preform a cheaper one imho.

I have bought expensive batteries in the past and they died very early on or way sooner than their price would of made you think.

The Costco batteries have not been lights out for me either. Neither have the company (Interstate) making them. I have paid their price and will not buy an interstate brand again.

I've had very good experience with Interstate Batteries

I've had excellent luck with Interstate branded batteries. Only Johnson Controls and some other place make car batteries for everyone else. Find a full Interstate dealer and look for an "AGM" battery if you want the best. Lots of Interstate models at the top of Consumer reports list at the moment.

quote:

Originally posted by jjkroll32:
I've had very good experience with Interstate Batteries

We sell them and have almost zero warranty issues.

Something is wrong with the original 36 cold cranking amps reading. Under an accurate load test, the battery should deliver more than 180 amps at a usable voltage (9.6 or greater) if it is well charged and in sound condition. As a previous poster said, at 36 amps the engine would not crank. If the battery is fully charged, slow cranking can be caused by a wiring problem, a starter/solenoid problem or a worn out battery. The old reliable test was to make sure the battery was fully charged then place a load on it equal to the ampere hour rating times three for 15 seconds. Then check the voltage. 9.6 or greater indicated the battery was good. A typical ampere hour rating for your battery would be about 70. 70 x 3=210 amp load.

Ok guys back from the shop. Verified (I guess) The battery is shot. No good. 66 amps not 36.

Installed new battery. Very little difference. Noticeably better, but barely

Rechecked, Hmmmm. Starter drawing 10amps, "dragging"??

Dragging starter probably wore out an aging battery. New re-conditioned Delco starter installed $230, ouch. Had to order one.

I asked about the Alt. he said it is producing 13.8 amps. He said that it should be 14amps and 13.8 is not great, but not terrible either. On my dash gauge I have noticed recently that it is slighty below 14, which it has always been slightly above the 14amp mark. Is it next? I am already over $300 in new battery and starter.

Not 13.8 amps, but 13.8 volts, right? Also, starter motor should draw well over 100 amps. If it's dragging it will draw even more than normal.

These amp readings don't make sense. A starter on a Chevy 5.7 V8 should draw ~180-200 amps initially, 120-150 sustained. It can't be working at only 10 amps. An alternator that is only putting out 13.8 amps at peak would be no good (or the belt is slipping), but 13.8 volts is better, albeit a little on the low side. I'd rather see around 14.2-14.5.

I'm really suspecting a grounding problem here. Try this: take your jumper cables, hook up one black clamp to battery negative, the other black clamp to a solid, clean surface on the engine. (The color isn't actually important, this is just to keep it simple, since black is ground.) Be sure you have a good grip on the battery, since side terminals don't have much to hold onto. Ignore the other cable. With this hooked up, see how it cranks and charges then.

Right, I don't have all the verbage right but you get the idea.

So is 13.8 volt mean my alt is on the way out.

I do think the starter is dragging.

With New battery the crank is not robust when I turn the ignition switch on?

Is it some what normal to have the trifecta of components fail?
Did I cause component damage by thinking my battery was getting week but it kept starting the rig even if it was not really firing the starter like it should of for an extended period of time?

I will try that eg. Thx

Just because I haven't seen it mentioned yet...

check your grounds.

cleaning up and possibly replacing your ground straps/wires can fix a lot of these problems or prevent other problems.

The harder your "system" has to work as a complete system, the harder it is on components. The grounds are a part of the overall electrical system. They should be cleaned and checked periodically, and replaced as needed.

Check all your wires and cable ends make sure you got clean/tight connections. Good Ground?

If your on original starter replacing it might be the slow crank fix.

quote:

he battery, since side terminals don't have much to hold onto. Ignore the other cable. With this hooked up, see how it cranks and charges then.

Ok gearheades, I did try this test. Did not seem to make much of a difference that I could tell.

But after driving home yesterday and sitting overnight it does seem to start a bit better. AND I noticed the Alt. gauge needle is noticeably past the 14 mark. Which here lately has been running just a tad under, hence the 13.8 volt reading yesterday. So is the battery fully charged now and making the system function as it should. I am wondering about doing the starter tomorrow know. I am not sure it is a "snappy" as it should be though.

Update, had a new rebuilt Delco starter put in today.

Wow, Does it turn over now. Almost seem's to much crank!

I guess the new battery and starter were what was needed after all. Hope my Alt. keeps on giving for a good long while.

Thanks for all the help guys.