hmmm, might make that into a flatbed, the heavier gauge steel might help traction, you going to blast the frame and then paint it?

quote:

Originally posted by HRK:
hmmm, might make that into a flatbed, the heavier gauge steel might help traction, you going to blast the frame and then paint it?

I'll probably needle-gun the frame just to check for tender spots, maybe a spraybomb or three of Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer.

Wooden flatbed is most likely. Kinda traditional around here. That, a couple of stove-up clam rollers and a few empty Bud Lite cans and I'll qualify for Native status...

I was 'given' a F-150 once, well actually had to buy it for twenty five cents.

The hose under the throttle body was blown. Wouldn't start in the cold and lost coolant all the time.

Got it home, put the $13 hose where it needed to be, and have driven it all over the place for the last 14 years.

Then there was a Suburban for $503...

Hopefully it will work out with yours. Thinking that maybe the snow plow kit was the brakes.

quote:

Thinking that maybe the snow plow kit was the brakes.

Wouldn't doubt it a bit. That's what snowbanks and trees are for...

If I remember correctly, you need the MAF sensor and intake tube installed on that in order for it to stay running.

quote:

Originally posted by rizzle:
If I remember correctly, you need the MAF sensor and intake tube installed on that in order for it to stay running.

Good tip, thanks. I just took the air box and filter element out of the equation. Everything else is still in place.

If there is a wire connector on the air box cover, that's where the MAF is, needs to be connected to sense airflow which keeps the fuel pump running. But anyway, what brand of penetrating oil you using, might be a good time to buy stock in it

quote:

Originally posted by rizzle:
If there is a wire connector on the air box cover, that's where the MAF is, needs to be connected to sense airflow which keeps the fuel pump running. But anyway, what brand of penetrating oil you using, might be a good time to buy stock in it

I'll put it all back together before I try starting it again.

And an insider tip: You might want to buy PB Blaster stock...

Rizzle, you were correct, I put the air box back together (filter was fine), siphoned out the old dead gas, put some fresh in and it started right up and ran fine.

Put it in 4 lo and bumped the clutch and the frozen front wheel popped loose, so that's another worry off my mind. Of course it will still need a 4 corner brake job, but at least I have a chance of getting it apart. I did add fluid to the reservoir and the brakes went from nothing at all to spongy.

Radiator wasn't empty, it was just a half-gallon or so low. After running it up and down the driveway once, it had pressure against the cap. I'll replace the thermostat just because.

Next bit of semi-bad news is that the alternator is seized up. I loosened it enough to keep the belt from burning up and ordered a replacement from Rock Auto. When I get it off I might see if I can replace the bearings just for the hell of it.

In the process of ordering the replacement alternator something wasn't adding up as it only listed a 4.0 V6 for that year and this one has a 3.4 Ran the VIN and turns out it's a 2001 not a 2005.

quote:

Originally posted by PHPaul:

quote:

Originally posted by HRK:
hmmm, might make that into a flatbed, the heavier gauge steel might help traction, you going to blast the frame and then paint it?

I'll probably needle-gun the frame just to check for tender spots, maybe a spraybomb or three of Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer.

Wooden flatbed is most likely. Kinda traditional around here. That, a couple of stove-up clam rollers and a few empty Bud Lite cans and I'll qualify for Native status...

Wood flatbed would be good, no rust issues, although you may want to put Miller Light cans in the back.....

Is there ANYTHING that Paul can't fix???

What I heard was just because it's not broke doesn't mean he can't fix it anyway.
.

quote:

Originally posted by HRK:

Wood flatbed would be good, no rust issues, although you may want to put Miller Light cans in the back.....

We haven't started our daily walks and can picking yet (too cold, wife's feet haven't healed enough yet) but it'll be interesting to see what impact Bud's latest dumbass attack has. Historically, Bud Lite has been WAY out in front with Busch running a distant second.

quote:

Originally posted by OKCGene:
Is there ANYTHING that Paul can't fix???

What I heard was just because it's not broke doesn't mean he can't fix it anyway.
.

Essackly!

This thread calls to mind one of my most poorly thought out vehicle purchases:
1976 Chevy Suburban. Half ton. 400 big block. 350 auto trans. Full time 4X4.
Purchase price in 1985: $500.
If you stood quietly near it, you could actually see and hear it rust. People refused to park near it. In operation, you could watch the gas gauge (40-gallon tank) fall. When it worked. It was equipped with an electric rear window with a faulty motor. It would fail in the half open position. In this condition, if you opened a door window, a weird suction occurred that made you think you were about to be shot into another dimension. All in all, the epitome of mid 70s GM quality. The final torture was when the gas tank straps rusted to the point that the tank fell off the frame after I had driven it to Krogers. My friend offered to take it off my hands, but only if I gave it to him for free. I signed over the title instantly. About 3 months later, I came to work and saw a sharp looking Chevy pickup parked in the lot. Turns out my friend had stripped the Suburban to the frame and drive train and rebuilt it as a pickup. He later sold it for 7K. His total investment was $1200. For years afterward, the bastard would ask me if I had any more free trucks he could take off my hands.
Yes, Virginia, there is such a thing as free truck.

Hmmmmm. Neighbor Dan just made me a cash offer for the truck that is pretty hard to resist. I'd recoup my towing and parts money and put a little cash in my pocket.

Blank stare, fingers drumming...

Take the cash and watch for the next deal. Flip, flip, flip.

quote:

Originally posted by Krazeehorse:
Take the cash and watch for the next deal. Flip, flip, flip.

That's what I'm thinking. I'll get back what I have invested including towing and about $150 towards my time.

quote:

Originally posted by PHPaul:

quote:

Originally posted by Krazeehorse:
Take the cash and watch for the next deal. Flip, flip, flip.

That's what I'm thinking. I'll get back what I have invested including towing and about $150 towards my time.

No way that’s worth it. If you’re only getting $150 in your pocket, keep the truck.

quote:

Originally posted by Lt CHEG:

No way that’s worth it. If you’re only getting $150 in your pocket, keep the truck.

Having slept on it, I'm inclined to agree. I'll hold off on a decision until I get a good look at the brakes.

quote:

a cash offer for the truck that is pretty hard to resist. I'd recoup my towing and parts money and put a little cash in my pocket.

....well.....buddies around here insist that would violate a Basic Rule of Dumb Vehicle Deals, as 'recoup' expenses for the exercise is forbidden....